Eagle

Don't mean to be rude but ... is there something about "any" that isn't clear? AFAIK all XJ windshields are the same. The rubber surround used on the newer ones can be retrofitted to the older XJs anytime you replace a windshield, so any differences in thickness (which is something I have not even heard a whisper about prior to this thread) must be exceedingly small, and inconsequential.

I'm thinking of doing exactly that. I have a couple of sets of XJ spring packs here I can cannibalize. Did adding the XJ leaf produce any lift at all, or just increase the spring rate?

Two words: "Toggle switch"

Not the first time. I think i may need more gravel... What are you building? 27 feet x 27 feet times 4 inches deep is a lot of dirt. 'Specially if you have to haul it in a Comanche.

Don, his problem is that he already got a used, open system radiator with no bung, so he sort of backed into doing the conversion without realizing what all was involved. Now we're playing catch-up. Part of the probelm is that he's posting part of his question and part of his information in at three or four different threads, so it's dang near impossible for anyone to keep track of where this discussion is going.

You are searching for the Holy Grail of Jeepdom. Over the years, various people on NAXJA (which has been around several years longer than this site) have variously reported that some year of sensor from a Corvette would work. That didn't prove to be correct. Then someone said they found an obscure sensor from some model of Honda that would work. I don't recall if that one proved to be correct or not. Personally, I would do as I have already suggested to you -- clip off the old sensor and extend the wires to a toggle switch on the dashboard.

American Motors owned Jeep when the XJ (and MJ) was designed. Renault was a major partner of AMC. The design of the ignition and injection system was a joint venture of Renault and Bendix of Europe. RENault + bendIX = RENIX. The Renix system was used on the 4.0L engine from 1987 through 1990, and on the 4-cylinder engine from 1986 through 1990.

This was already answered in your previous thread:

Use a hacksaw to cut the crimp. Pry it open with a large screwdriver.

1 cubic yard is 27 cubic feet. 1 cubic yard will cover 3 square yards at 12 inches deep; at 4 inches, it'll cover 9 square yards.

It's not considered polite to gloat ...

The early (AMC) hub/bearing units are theoretically serviceable. but it requires a 12-ton or 20-ton shop press to take them apart to access the bearings. In practice, although you can buy the replacement bearings and seals from Quadratec, for a couple of bucks more you can buy a complete new unit, so they are treated as disposable. The Chrysler-era ones are not serviceable.

So you obviously have spark and air. The problem is fuel. When you pulled the hose to test the fuel pump, which side of the fuel filter did you pull it from? Are you getting flow through the fuel filter, or did you verify flow to the filter? Have you verified that the injectors are working? Your test with carb cleaner confirms spark, but you're bypassing the injectors with that, so there could be fuel pressure to the rail but no squirt.

Guess I'm the only one who doesn't know -- what is CF? Anyway, best wishes for a speedy (and, more important, complete) recovery.

I'd go for the Holley.

Let's take a poll: Who still has any bump stops left?

Of course we do! So ... did that help?

That might be the net cargo load, or carrying capacity, but that number is available from factory specs and has been posted on this site several times. That is NOT the GVW, or Gross Vehicle Weight. GVW is the total combined weight of the vehicle and the cargo.

Yes it is, and there is. In your photo, that cable running from the throttle body toward the passenger side, at exactly top center (12:00 o'clock) in your photo, is the kickdown cable.

"Just" need to recalibrate the tach? How do you do that for that year cluster?

Both what? Both switches? The '87 thru '90 auxiliary fan is controlled by either the sensor in the radiator tank (for overheating) or by activating the a/c compressor. Neither one involves the ECU. Temp data for the ECU comes from a temperature sensor mounted low on the left (driver's) side of the block. In the '91 thru '96 HO system, there is no sensor in the radiator tank. The temp sensor in the thermostat housing provides data to the ECU, and the ECO controls the auxiliary fan. The Renix ('87 - '90) radiator tank sensor is nothing but an ON-OFF switch. The HO sensor in the thermostat housing is a variable resistor that reports the actual temperatore (expressed as ohms). It is not a simple ON-OFF switch. It is not, in fact, any kind of a switch. It is a temperature sensor.

The XJ has all that glass and the very heavy fiberglass hatch over the back wheels to help the tires keep adhesion. The MJ has comparatively no weight over the rear wheels. Same reason an XJ is better than an MJ in snow.

When it's running? Or doesn't it run?

All that work for an "upgrade" that doesn't upgrade anything. I know I am in a small minority, but I see no reason whatsoever to go through all the modifications you are going through. The simple solution to your aux fan issue is to unplug the old sensor that was in the radiator tank. Clip the sensor off the wires, and run a pair of wires from the remaining pigtails through the firewall to a toggle switch on the dashboard. Plug the connector back in where it was. Control the fan manually when necessary for overheating. It will still function as before when the a/c cuts on.

Souns like it does everything except wash your windows.