Eagle

IMHO the weak link is the height sensing proportioning valve over the rear axle. Since most of us probably run empty or nearly empty most of the time, IF that thing is working, you probably have almost no rear brakes most of the time. If the rear axle has ever been serviced, there's a good chance the actuating rod has either disappeared or been reinstalled wrong and you either have no rear brakes, or no clue what the proportioning is. Then there's the fact that when I had to pull a panic stop a couple of years ago, the height sensing valve in my '88 exploded. 1992 was the last year for the MJ, so the newest ones out there are now almost 18 years old. I don't trust them. You can't buy new ones. So I recommend eliminating the valve before it eliminates you.

It may not be the lifters. The 4.0L is not an overhead cam engine. The lifters push on the pushrods, which in turn actuate the rocker arms, which are what actually push on the valves. Over time, all those parts may get a bit worn. If it's just a light ticking, it's probably normal and doesn't mean anything if the engine runs strong. Try removing the oil fill cap from the valve cover and see if the noise is louder. If so, it could be the pivots that the rocker arms rotate on. Another possibility is that the exhaust manifold may have loosened up, especially if it overheated, and the tick is actually a small exhaust leak. If that's the case, simply tightening the manifold bolts may cure it.

You are correct, the HO head is different and the intake & exhaust ports are higher and shaped differently.

Excuse my asking, but can you explain exactly why suggesting a very simple way for someone to get his truck running with access to the aux fan by a toggle switch while he searches for the magic sensor that nobody has been able to find over the course of the last ten years BS? I'm trying to help him get his truck running with a minimum of hassle. What are you trying to do? As to multiple threads, I have no problem with five threads for five questions. Mr. Collins hijacked three different threads with the SAME question, which spread the discussion of one question all over the board. I don't hang out on Pirate. Perhaps you should stay there if you can't behave civilly here.

Ya know -- it's Wednesday, which is a work day. You posted at 9 something in the morning, when most people are at work, and you get antsy and bump your own thread when nobody has responded by mid-afternoon? Why don't you give people a chance to at least get home from work and have supper? Have you ever used the 4WD before? The front is driven by a chain, so 4WD is always noisier than 2WD. The noise you hear may be normal. If you've used 4WD before and this is different or louder, please post a better description. As to the front spark plug, I believe you have to pull the a/c compressor. In the '84 4-banger XJ I had, that was the only way.

The stock unit? It's a clutch-type limited slip, not a locker. No, the CJ had a 2-piece hub. The hub part is separate, and attatched to the axle shaft with a nut to hold it and a tapered spline to keep it from spinning (in theory). The MJ is a 1-piece axle shaft & hub assembly.

The second line is not a return line. That has been a common misconception for many years andnobody seems to know where it originated. In fact, it's an emergency bypass line that allows full (unmodulated) braking force to the rear wheels if the front brakes lose pressure. The bleeding procedure as spelled out in the factory service manual has been posted here (I know -- I posted it). I'm at work and don't have time to search for it, but if you search you should find it.

You won't find it by year. DaimlerChrysler/Jeep changed to the "open" radiator (with filler neck) in 1991. The radiator stayed the same from then through the end of the Cherokee in 2001. The factory "open" radiators did not have the bung. Some aftermarket radiators do have the bung along with the filler neck. It's a matter of shopping until you find one. Perhaps people who have purchased aftermarket "open" radiators new can post what brand they got and whether or not it has the bung.

For the MJ. For the XJ, it's 84 thru 2001.

Murphy's Law: Whatever can go wrong, will go wrong. O'Halloran's Law: Murphy is an optimist.

Don't mean to be rude but ... is there something about "any" that isn't clear? AFAIK all XJ windshields are the same. The rubber surround used on the newer ones can be retrofitted to the older XJs anytime you replace a windshield, so any differences in thickness (which is something I have not even heard a whisper about prior to this thread) must be exceedingly small, and inconsequential.

I'm thinking of doing exactly that. I have a couple of sets of XJ spring packs here I can cannibalize. Did adding the XJ leaf produce any lift at all, or just increase the spring rate?

Two words: "Toggle switch"

Not the first time. I think i may need more gravel... What are you building? 27 feet x 27 feet times 4 inches deep is a lot of dirt. 'Specially if you have to haul it in a Comanche.

Don, his problem is that he already got a used, open system radiator with no bung, so he sort of backed into doing the conversion without realizing what all was involved. Now we're playing catch-up. Part of the probelm is that he's posting part of his question and part of his information in at three or four different threads, so it's dang near impossible for anyone to keep track of where this discussion is going.

You are searching for the Holy Grail of Jeepdom. Over the years, various people on NAXJA (which has been around several years longer than this site) have variously reported that some year of sensor from a Corvette would work. That didn't prove to be correct. Then someone said they found an obscure sensor from some model of Honda that would work. I don't recall if that one proved to be correct or not. Personally, I would do as I have already suggested to you -- clip off the old sensor and extend the wires to a toggle switch on the dashboard.

American Motors owned Jeep when the XJ (and MJ) was designed. Renault was a major partner of AMC. The design of the ignition and injection system was a joint venture of Renault and Bendix of Europe. RENault + bendIX = RENIX. The Renix system was used on the 4.0L engine from 1987 through 1990, and on the 4-cylinder engine from 1986 through 1990.

This was already answered in your previous thread:

Use a hacksaw to cut the crimp. Pry it open with a large screwdriver.

1 cubic yard is 27 cubic feet. 1 cubic yard will cover 3 square yards at 12 inches deep; at 4 inches, it'll cover 9 square yards.

It's not considered polite to gloat ...

The early (AMC) hub/bearing units are theoretically serviceable. but it requires a 12-ton or 20-ton shop press to take them apart to access the bearings. In practice, although you can buy the replacement bearings and seals from Quadratec, for a couple of bucks more you can buy a complete new unit, so they are treated as disposable. The Chrysler-era ones are not serviceable.

So you obviously have spark and air. The problem is fuel. When you pulled the hose to test the fuel pump, which side of the fuel filter did you pull it from? Are you getting flow through the fuel filter, or did you verify flow to the filter? Have you verified that the injectors are working? Your test with carb cleaner confirms spark, but you're bypassing the injectors with that, so there could be fuel pressure to the rail but no squirt.

Guess I'm the only one who doesn't know -- what is CF? Anyway, best wishes for a speedy (and, more important, complete) recovery.

I'd go for the Holley.