Eagle

No, the "wagon wheels" were the steel 6 or 8-spoke factory rims. The turbine rims in the photos are the 10-spoke alloys that were the optional rim on the 84-89 (or 90?) XJ and 86-89 (90?) MJ. They are 15x7 ... so are the wagon wheels.

Use the XJ perches on the XJ axle. Grind them off carefully (the welds are all on the outside so they'll be easy to remove with a die grinder) and they can be reused. Keep the perches on the original MJ axle so you can use it as a template for setting up the correct spacing and angles on the "new" axle before welding.

I get a bit nervous about the concept of welding that Harbor Freight bumper receiver to a tube frame. Any load on the hitch ball (vertical OR pull resistance) is going to put the assembly and the welds in torsion. In addition to a fillet weld on each side, I would strongly suggest a couple of triangular gussets to help take up torsional forces.

I have AutoCAD and I was originally a draftsman by training and profession. If someone can get me the dimensions, I can draw up the template.

No, it very much is NOT a non-issue. The rear wheels/tires on an MJ run very close to the leaf springs and inner fender with the stock axle. Running 31x10.50s on factory rims, every time I did a trail ride I had fresh rubber marks on the inner fender when I got home. A difference of even 3/8" on each side (and I think it's really more than that) is enough to make it necessary to run non-OEM rims on an Exploder axle. Not "desirable" -- "necessary." Personally, I'd choose the D44 because it's the right axle for the vehicle. $200 is a very good price. I guess prices have dropped, but a few years ago when I was active in NAXJA the going price for an XJ Dana 44 was around $500, and some were selling for $600.

That 231 will also fit the early AX-4s and AX-5s, as well as the early AW4 automatic. If he's including the transfer case for the 50 clams, snap it up.

There is no good price to pay. I think Jeepers universally recommend never rebuilding a BA 10/5 or replacing a bad one with another. Convert to an AX-15 or NVG 3550.

Are the teeth worn down, or is the problem just that the mechanism is dirty and the locking pawl doesn't engage the teeth properly? Usually, the problem is just gunk, and if the pedal assembly is removed, thoroughly cleaned, and then reinstalled it'll work fine.

I don't believe they are cracked because the others are not completely rust free. I think these just happened to be highest up and since only the bottom side rusted then they got the worst of it. I could be totally wrong. But I really hope that I can get this thing to turn and possibly running. What would make only the bottom side rust though? Condensation? Question -- from where the other (lower) pistons are, can you tell if the rust extends as high as the portion of the bore where the rings operate? If you have heavy rust where the rings slide, you're going to have to tear it down, have it bored oversize, and buy new pistons as well as new rings. At that point, a junkyard engine is cheaper. However, if the rust is only at the bottoms of the bores, below the lowest point where the rings go in operation, the cylinders still might clean up and the engine might be usable. Have you had the head off yet? How are the bores above the pistons?

Why not? (Said the guy with the 5-speeds)

Dexron III has been replaced by Dexron IV. You can get it anywhere.

IIRC, the payload for the standard (non Metric Ton) MJ is 1478 pounds.

It's interesting that the test results do not support my real life observations (or vise versa). Liquid Wrench has been around since I was a young pup -- PB Blaster has been around maybe ten years (or so). My experience has been that PB Blaster works MUCH better than Liquid Wrench. And Kroil works better than either of them.

End of discussion.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/ ... ?techid=11

That's $31 per tire for tires that sell new for ... what, $125 to $150 each? Sounds fair to me. Probably even more important than tread depth, though, is age. What's the manufactured date code, and do the sidewalls show any evidence of dry rot or ozone cracking?

Jim is correct for your '88 MJ (except that I think it's 0 ohms empty, not 6), but Chrysler changed to the opposite polarity in 1991. However, the range for the XJ/MJ was not the same as the Chrysler unit you mentioned. The Jeep unit was (IIRC) 108 to 8. But ... what the existing range is doesn't matter. You need to find out what your gauge will be calibrated for, and buy a sender that matches your gauge.

I have used Crown and had no problems.

No, 9 months should be good. The original in my XJ lasted 13 years and ~220,000 miles.

I was slightly interested until I saw this. There's no way they'll sell at that price. It's an unknown vehicle from an unknown, third-world maker. There's no way I'd spend that kind on money on an experiment. I think even $20,000 is too much for a base version. To make any inroads and grab any market share at all, they need to sell a base truck for $15k to $17k and for $20k you should be able to get one with a/c, a decent radio, and at least power windows. $27k is SOOOO not going to happen.

You did a clutch and didn't replace the master cylinder? That very well could be the problem. While you're at it, replace the line/hose between the master and slave. When I replaced the clutch in my '88 Cherokee I did EVERYTHING ... except the line/hose. Both ends are metal, so I conveniently forgot there's a section of rubber pressure hose in the middle. And guess what let go at a toll station on an Interstate highway 100 miles from home a few months later ... 100 miles is a LOOONG drive when you don't have a clutch.

Couple more questions: 1) If it's a BA 10/5, it has an internal slave. The slave comes with a band to keep it compressed, and you're supposed to leave that band in place while you bleed it. Did you have the band in place when you bed it? 2) As has been discussed in other threads, you're not supposed to resurface the flywheel. Did you by any chance have the flywheel resurfaced?

if thats the case, wouldnt adding an XJ main with the eyes removed work too? I hope to have a report on that later this summer. The XJ springs don't have as much arch, so it's my hope that adding an XJ main leaf will result in better load carrying capacity and a stronger spring without adding much lift or being excessively stiff/harsh.

The grille has seven slots. Why hasn't Jeep sued Mahindra for trade dress infringement?

If the hose burst or the slave failed, there would be a leak. If the slave let go you should be able to look underneath and see fluid dripping out of the bellhousing. If the hose burst, the outside of the hose will be wet (and it may be dripping off the hose or hard line at the lowest point). If you have pumped the peddle multiple times and still have no peddle, and there's no evidence of fluid where a burst hose or slave would cause fluid to show up ... most likely the master. The pushrod from the peddle is still connected to the slave, right?