Eagle

Dexron III has been replaced by Dexron IV. You can get it anywhere.

IIRC, the payload for the standard (non Metric Ton) MJ is 1478 pounds.

It's interesting that the test results do not support my real life observations (or vise versa). Liquid Wrench has been around since I was a young pup -- PB Blaster has been around maybe ten years (or so). My experience has been that PB Blaster works MUCH better than Liquid Wrench. And Kroil works better than either of them.

End of discussion.

http://www.tirerack.com/tires/tiretech/ ... ?techid=11

That's $31 per tire for tires that sell new for ... what, $125 to $150 each? Sounds fair to me. Probably even more important than tread depth, though, is age. What's the manufactured date code, and do the sidewalls show any evidence of dry rot or ozone cracking?

Jim is correct for your '88 MJ (except that I think it's 0 ohms empty, not 6), but Chrysler changed to the opposite polarity in 1991. However, the range for the XJ/MJ was not the same as the Chrysler unit you mentioned. The Jeep unit was (IIRC) 108 to 8. But ... what the existing range is doesn't matter. You need to find out what your gauge will be calibrated for, and buy a sender that matches your gauge.

I have used Crown and had no problems.

No, 9 months should be good. The original in my XJ lasted 13 years and ~220,000 miles.

I was slightly interested until I saw this. There's no way they'll sell at that price. It's an unknown vehicle from an unknown, third-world maker. There's no way I'd spend that kind on money on an experiment. I think even $20,000 is too much for a base version. To make any inroads and grab any market share at all, they need to sell a base truck for $15k to $17k and for $20k you should be able to get one with a/c, a decent radio, and at least power windows. $27k is SOOOO not going to happen.

You did a clutch and didn't replace the master cylinder? That very well could be the problem. While you're at it, replace the line/hose between the master and slave. When I replaced the clutch in my '88 Cherokee I did EVERYTHING ... except the line/hose. Both ends are metal, so I conveniently forgot there's a section of rubber pressure hose in the middle. And guess what let go at a toll station on an Interstate highway 100 miles from home a few months later ... 100 miles is a LOOONG drive when you don't have a clutch.

Couple more questions: 1) If it's a BA 10/5, it has an internal slave. The slave comes with a band to keep it compressed, and you're supposed to leave that band in place while you bleed it. Did you have the band in place when you bed it? 2) As has been discussed in other threads, you're not supposed to resurface the flywheel. Did you by any chance have the flywheel resurfaced?

if thats the case, wouldnt adding an XJ main with the eyes removed work too? I hope to have a report on that later this summer. The XJ springs don't have as much arch, so it's my hope that adding an XJ main leaf will result in better load carrying capacity and a stronger spring without adding much lift or being excessively stiff/harsh.

The grille has seven slots. Why hasn't Jeep sued Mahindra for trade dress infringement?

If the hose burst or the slave failed, there would be a leak. If the slave let go you should be able to look underneath and see fluid dripping out of the bellhousing. If the hose burst, the outside of the hose will be wet (and it may be dripping off the hose or hard line at the lowest point). If you have pumped the peddle multiple times and still have no peddle, and there's no evidence of fluid where a burst hose or slave would cause fluid to show up ... most likely the master. The pushrod from the peddle is still connected to the slave, right?

Dave -- PLEASE tell me you welded the spring perches to the axle tubes after that first photo was taken.

A '91 will probably still have the smaller u-joints, but other than that it's as good as any. I don't recall which year they changed to the larger front axle u-joints across the board -- '94? '96? Before that, vehicles with anti-lock brakes got the larger u-joints and the non-ABS vehicles got the 260s.

Three little words: "Oh" + "My" + "Gawd" Centrifugal force? Centrifugal weights? And you were told this by a mechanic in a Jeep dealership? Man, that's one dealership you don't EVER want to let touch your vehicles. The Trac-Lok differential (it isn't "positrac," Positraction -- or "Posi" for short -- was a GM registered trade name) does use clutches, but there aren't any centrifugal weights. The clutches are pre-loaded by springs. The default condition is that the clutches are engaged. They stay engaged until/unless the torque difference from one side to the other exceeds a certain level, at which point the clutches slip and allow the differential to work as a ... differential. When the friction modifier wears out, the clutches should not make a grinding or crunching noise. There will be some banging/clunking going around low-speed corners as the clutches release abruptly. The purpose of the friction modifier is to smooth out the release so you don't hear that banging/clunking. "Centrifugal weights" ... Bwaahaahaahaahaa :rotf: :doh: :dunce:

Not a bad price, but definitely an aftermarket hitch, and there's no way I'd feel safe towing 5,000 pounds behind that thing.

Hmmm ... Connecticut (home) Massachusetts New Hampshire New York New Jersey Pennsylvania Rhode Island Vermont Don't think I've taken any of mine farther afield than that.

Yes, but work carefully. Be sure you wash the gunk out and down on the ground, not into any part of the engine. Seal up or otherwise protect ALL orifices and sensors. No. The Jeep engines are not overhead cam, so removing the head doesn't affect timimg in any way if you don't disturb the distributor. BTW -- this isn't a timing issue, but be sure you keep each set of valve components (valve, spring, keepers/locks, pushrods, etc) together and in order so that when you put the head back on every valve and associated parts goes back exactly where it started out. Impossible to predict. I've done it. In my case, I reamed out the carbon ridge and honed the cylinder walls, but I left the pistons and rings in place and just buttoned it up again. Not high tech, but it ran fine. Yupp.

Yes, you did. The factory service manual specifically says NOT to turn flywheels. Don't use it -- it might work, but there's about a 75% probability you'll have to take everything apart again to replace it if you try to use it.

By FAR the best deal for spring perches is the Mopar perches from the Performance Catalog. Even at full list they should cost you less than half of what you'll pay some aftermarket company, and the Mopar perches are probably beefier anyway. Or just cut off the old ones and reuse them. Easy to do -- the welds are all on the outside where it's easy to grind them out without damaging the perch or the axle. You don't need shock mounts. The MJ shocks mount to the spring plates, not to the axle. You can leave the XJ shock mounts in place to save work, or grind them off the clean up the axle.

Each side has a bearing at the outer end of the shaft. If the noise isn't coming from the center section, and you don't get it when jacked up, my guess is a bad outer bearing that isn't happy when it's carrying load.

Too old for on-board diagnostics. You have to test each sensor individually.