Eagle

The transmission would not throw CPS or TPS codes. Not sure, but I believe in '97 the TCU was still a separate box from the ECU, and the OBD-II diagnostic connector won't give you transmission codes. So if you are getting engine codes, then I would suggest before you start throwing transmissions at it -- find out what the problem is. What did the "jumping out of gear" feel like? When the CPS goes bad, the engine may cut out and leave you essentially coasting. I think you probably just need a CPS, but others may have more/better ideas.

The fronts are the same. The rears are entirely different, and the backing plates likewise are different.

The 40 gig drive had one 40-gig partition. More than likely, when you cloned the drive it cloned the partition size as well as identification. I don't remember hos to get into the partition info in the new versions of Windows -- what you're looking for is the equivalent of the old FDISK command in MS-DOS. You want to find out how many partitions your drive has and what sizes. Since you are only seeing 40 gigs, there are (I think) only two possibilities: (1) You have one 40-gig partition and a lot of unallocated space; or (2) You have one 40-gig partition and a second, 460-gig partition that needs to have a logical drive letter assigned to it and be formatted before you can use it. I believe there is a utility (but I don't recall if it's in Windows or aftermarket) to dynamically expand a partition to take up all unused, unallocated space available on the drive. Maybe Google on "Expand+Partition"?

But ... you have two, parallel lines doing the job of one. That may be okay of you live in Arizona, but in my neck of the woods if I can have ten feet of brake line subject to rust rather than twenty feet, I'm all over it.

What are you running for rims? You don't need any lift to clear 31x10.50s on Jeep rims. The only rubiing with stock rims is the inner shoulder of the tire rubbing the lower control arm when the steering is at full lock ... and NO amount of lift will eliminate that.

Not quite. The "T" is already there in the back, on the axle. Run the new line from the front to the upper end of the rear flex hose, where it's clipped to the chassis.

May close attention to the condition of the rear frame rails, right under the cab/bed gap, and around the area of the front leaf spring hangers.

This is incorrect. The usual way to eliminate the rear height sensing valve is the remove both the valve and both hard lines from the front distribution block to the rear. Plug the outlet on the bottom of the front distribution block, then run a new hard line from the "nose" outlet directly to the upper end of the rear flex hose. I disagree with my colleague CWLONGSHOT about using an XJ front proportioning valve, though. I've been driving XJs for 22+ years and I was very active in NAXJA for many years before focusing more on MJs. I still have multiple XJs. One of the primary complaints about XJs is that the rear brakes suck. The reason they suck is that front proportioning valve. What most XJ owners who address that problem do is open up the valve, remove the spring and O-ring from inside, and set the plunger to the full-forward position. What this does is disable the proportioning feature. That makes it the functional equivalent of the MJ system ... so why bother? The XJ proportioning valve is a stupid device anyway. When it works (until it gets gummed up inside and sticks), what it does is prevent the rear brakes from doing anything unless you apply extreme pressure -- like in a panic stop. But premature rear lockup isn't a problem in normal driving, it's a problem in ... a panic stop. So what's the use of a device that eliminates the rear brakes most of the time yet provides no proportioning under the ONLY conditions when you need it? Does not compute.

A quick search on this site will turn up innumerable discussions of this problem. I think it's safe to say that most of us recommend scrapping the rear height sensing valve entirely.

I paid $500 for one a couple of years ago, and I had to drive two hours each way to get it.

Quadratec

Correction. That hunk of plastic is NOT an overflow bottle. It is a surge tank and it is an integral part of the pressurized cooling system.

Regardless of how much lift each might provide, do NOT get a short AAL.

No, the "wagon wheels" were the steel 6 or 8-spoke factory rims. The turbine rims in the photos are the 10-spoke alloys that were the optional rim on the 84-89 (or 90?) XJ and 86-89 (90?) MJ. They are 15x7 ... so are the wagon wheels. No, the steel 6 or 8 spoke factory wheels were the Rally's. You are correct in that the factory called the 6- or 8-spoke steelies "Rally" wheels. But nobody actually calls them that. I haven't heard them referred to as anything other than wagon wheels for at least 15 years.

My suggestion would be: If you don't want to see posts or threads disappear, don't post stuff that might need to disappear. We are here to discuss Jeeps -- Comanches, primarily -- so if you want to discuss religion, politics, or any other potentially sensitive/divisive/controversial topic -- take it elsewhere. Don't post a hot steamin' load and then complain when posts or threads go walkabout. And if you see a post that looks like it's inviting a snarky response ... try declining the invitation.

No, the "wagon wheels" were the steel 6 or 8-spoke factory rims. The turbine rims in the photos are the 10-spoke alloys that were the optional rim on the 84-89 (or 90?) XJ and 86-89 (90?) MJ. They are 15x7 ... so are the wagon wheels.

Use the XJ perches on the XJ axle. Grind them off carefully (the welds are all on the outside so they'll be easy to remove with a die grinder) and they can be reused. Keep the perches on the original MJ axle so you can use it as a template for setting up the correct spacing and angles on the "new" axle before welding.

I get a bit nervous about the concept of welding that Harbor Freight bumper receiver to a tube frame. Any load on the hitch ball (vertical OR pull resistance) is going to put the assembly and the welds in torsion. In addition to a fillet weld on each side, I would strongly suggest a couple of triangular gussets to help take up torsional forces.

I have AutoCAD and I was originally a draftsman by training and profession. If someone can get me the dimensions, I can draw up the template.

No, it very much is NOT a non-issue. The rear wheels/tires on an MJ run very close to the leaf springs and inner fender with the stock axle. Running 31x10.50s on factory rims, every time I did a trail ride I had fresh rubber marks on the inner fender when I got home. A difference of even 3/8" on each side (and I think it's really more than that) is enough to make it necessary to run non-OEM rims on an Exploder axle. Not "desirable" -- "necessary." Personally, I'd choose the D44 because it's the right axle for the vehicle. $200 is a very good price. I guess prices have dropped, but a few years ago when I was active in NAXJA the going price for an XJ Dana 44 was around $500, and some were selling for $600.

That 231 will also fit the early AX-4s and AX-5s, as well as the early AW4 automatic. If he's including the transfer case for the 50 clams, snap it up.

There is no good price to pay. I think Jeepers universally recommend never rebuilding a BA 10/5 or replacing a bad one with another. Convert to an AX-15 or NVG 3550.

Are the teeth worn down, or is the problem just that the mechanism is dirty and the locking pawl doesn't engage the teeth properly? Usually, the problem is just gunk, and if the pedal assembly is removed, thoroughly cleaned, and then reinstalled it'll work fine.

I don't believe they are cracked because the others are not completely rust free. I think these just happened to be highest up and since only the bottom side rusted then they got the worst of it. I could be totally wrong. But I really hope that I can get this thing to turn and possibly running. What would make only the bottom side rust though? Condensation? Question -- from where the other (lower) pistons are, can you tell if the rust extends as high as the portion of the bore where the rings operate? If you have heavy rust where the rings slide, you're going to have to tear it down, have it bored oversize, and buy new pistons as well as new rings. At that point, a junkyard engine is cheaper. However, if the rust is only at the bottoms of the bores, below the lowest point where the rings go in operation, the cylinders still might clean up and the engine might be usable. Have you had the head off yet? How are the bores above the pistons?

Why not? (Said the guy with the 5-speeds)