Eagle

Don, do you know if this holds true for rebuilt boxes from the parts chains? After all, the exterior of the ZJ and XJ boxes is the same, they are both a basic Saginaw box. Do you suppose the rebuilders pay attention to those codes when they stuff new guts in the boxes?

Is that 2 inches of lift over nominal stock height, or 2 inches higher than where you started? Either way, I'm glad it worked for you and that you're happy with it.

You may have the sequence correct, but are you sure you have the #1 wire on the #1 terminal of the distributor cap?

The hose between the master and slave, or the slave itself.

I like the XJ main leaf trick. You gain load capacity without lots of lift. Another option is that Rancho sells a full-length AAL for the XJ and MJ. It adds about 2" in an XJ, and about 1" in an MJ. I've used three of them. Last time I bought one was a few years ago and at the time it cost about $50 -- probably went up a bit since then.

229. But it wasn't really similar to the 242.

Nope.

Cherokee gas tanks and gravel shields are completely different from Comanches. You need the part from an MJ, and it has to be from the same chassis (longbed or shortbed) because the tanks are different between the two.

If the resistor pack is bad, the fan will still operate on high speed, it just won't operate at the lower speeds. Yes, it is possible for the fan motor to die. It's an electric motor -- it has an armature and brushes (so-called -- they aren't really "brushes" as we think of a brush), and the brushes eventually wear down to the point they can't maintain contact with the armature. I'm currently on the third blower in my '88 Cherokee. Auto Zone has new blowers -- the impeller is a separate part from them if you break the old one trying to swap it over.

I probably need to do this on my '88 Cherokee because the voltmeter always reads lower than a multimeter at the battery shows. But ... Remember that even after this upgrade, you STILL have a voltage meter, not an ammeter. It does NOT show you the alternator output, it only shows you the voltage in the system. By the time you see the voltage drop, it will be an indication that the alternator HAS failed, not that it's getting ready to fail.

Are you asking for the length installed, or the uninstalled free length (which will vary depending on engine and suspension option)?

That's not a skid plate, it's a gravel shield. Those should be easy to find in a junk yard.

You have a volt meter, not an ammeter. A volt meter does NOT show anything about charging rate, it shows the voltage in the system. It is normal for the volt meter to react to sudden changes in load, because the needle reacts before the voltage regulator adjusts. The needle will dip when you turn on the headlights, too, then it'll return to normal when the voltage regulator adapts. With the blinkers, they go on and off fast enough that the voltage regulator can't mask the fluctuation. If you want to see how much your alternator is putting out, you'll have to install an ammeter.

I have no doubt that they actually DID [try to] balance the tires. IMHO, the new tire machines they have didn't accomplish anything other than make the users lazy. When I was in my teens and twenties, we balanced bigger tires than stock Jeep tires using nothing but a bubble balancer, and they were almost always perfect on the first try. Today, we have computerized balancers, and the tires are supposed to be made much better than they were 50 years ago -- and it's virtually unheard of (in my experience) for a set of tires to all be done right the first time -- or even the second or third time.

As noted above -- just slide over the slider in your CAD and lock it in place.

If the condition starts at 50 to 55 MPH and you can speed up so it goes away at about 60 MPH, the problem IS tire balance. If it's death wobble, you can't speed up -- you have to slow down to about zero before the wild and terrifying shaking stops.

Are you asking about the steel skid plate, or the plastic gravel shield?

'97+ also has an extra wind seal at the upper front.

Overall, comments I've received to date from various sources seem to favor TomTom. One friend has a TomTom that he can tell where he wants to go verbally -- no typed entry. Anyone know which model that is and how much it costs?

The gas tank comes out with the bed. Unless you plan to re-use it. And I'd cheerfully toss the rear height-sensing proportioning valve. Since one of mine exploded in a panic stop I don't trust them.

JC Whitney used to sell repair panels for the bed floor -- but I've NEVER seen an MJ bed with rust holes in the floor. What we really need is a source for tailgates.

Wilwood. Available from Summit Racing. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-8419/ There's one in the Mopar Performance catalog, and I suspect it's the same one but I've never followed up to prove or disprove that.

I admit it, I'm a technical Luddite. Don't know anything about GPS, but my wife is always getting herself lost and that's a problem because her English isn't all that good, so if she has to ask for directions she can't easily explain where she came from or where she needs to get to. Our adopted daughter agrees with me that Mom needs a GPS. Last I knew, I had only heard of Garmin and Magellan, and the ones I knew about were the hand-helds with topo maps, for hiking and so forth. I gather that there is now an entirely new class of GPS units specifically for road navigation -- and a new (?) player on the block named TomTom. So ... which is best? Who uses GPS, what do you use, what's good about it and what are your gripes or "I wish it would ..." list? TIA

They ALL had catalytic converters from the factory. If yours don't have them, somebody was cheatin'.

Cut the box out? It should be plug-n-play.