Eagle

Are you asking for the length installed, or the uninstalled free length (which will vary depending on engine and suspension option)?

That's not a skid plate, it's a gravel shield. Those should be easy to find in a junk yard.

You have a volt meter, not an ammeter. A volt meter does NOT show anything about charging rate, it shows the voltage in the system. It is normal for the volt meter to react to sudden changes in load, because the needle reacts before the voltage regulator adjusts. The needle will dip when you turn on the headlights, too, then it'll return to normal when the voltage regulator adapts. With the blinkers, they go on and off fast enough that the voltage regulator can't mask the fluctuation. If you want to see how much your alternator is putting out, you'll have to install an ammeter.

I have no doubt that they actually DID [try to] balance the tires. IMHO, the new tire machines they have didn't accomplish anything other than make the users lazy. When I was in my teens and twenties, we balanced bigger tires than stock Jeep tires using nothing but a bubble balancer, and they were almost always perfect on the first try. Today, we have computerized balancers, and the tires are supposed to be made much better than they were 50 years ago -- and it's virtually unheard of (in my experience) for a set of tires to all be done right the first time -- or even the second or third time.

As noted above -- just slide over the slider in your CAD and lock it in place.

If the condition starts at 50 to 55 MPH and you can speed up so it goes away at about 60 MPH, the problem IS tire balance. If it's death wobble, you can't speed up -- you have to slow down to about zero before the wild and terrifying shaking stops.

Are you asking about the steel skid plate, or the plastic gravel shield?

'97+ also has an extra wind seal at the upper front.

Overall, comments I've received to date from various sources seem to favor TomTom. One friend has a TomTom that he can tell where he wants to go verbally -- no typed entry. Anyone know which model that is and how much it costs?

The gas tank comes out with the bed. Unless you plan to re-use it. And I'd cheerfully toss the rear height-sensing proportioning valve. Since one of mine exploded in a panic stop I don't trust them.

JC Whitney used to sell repair panels for the bed floor -- but I've NEVER seen an MJ bed with rust holes in the floor. What we really need is a source for tailgates.

Wilwood. Available from Summit Racing. http://www.summitracing.com/parts/WIL-260-8419/ There's one in the Mopar Performance catalog, and I suspect it's the same one but I've never followed up to prove or disprove that.

I admit it, I'm a technical Luddite. Don't know anything about GPS, but my wife is always getting herself lost and that's a problem because her English isn't all that good, so if she has to ask for directions she can't easily explain where she came from or where she needs to get to. Our adopted daughter agrees with me that Mom needs a GPS. Last I knew, I had only heard of Garmin and Magellan, and the ones I knew about were the hand-helds with topo maps, for hiking and so forth. I gather that there is now an entirely new class of GPS units specifically for road navigation -- and a new (?) player on the block named TomTom. So ... which is best? Who uses GPS, what do you use, what's good about it and what are your gripes or "I wish it would ..." list? TIA

They ALL had catalytic converters from the factory. If yours don't have them, somebody was cheatin'.

Cut the box out? It should be plug-n-play.

Result of a bad O2 sensor is a rich mix, backfiring, and destruction of the catalytic converter (either from explosive backfire, or just working too hard to catalyze the extra unburned hydrocarbons making their way downstream). In your case, I would change it and then forget it.

That's why it's a "high altitude" CPS.

Yes, I've been running high-altitude CPSs in my Renix XJ and MJ for several years. I live at the lofty altitude of 440 feet above sea level.

It is not a reminder to "check" the O2 sensor, it is a reminder to CHANGE (replace) the O2 sensor. There are posts on the Internet about resetting the timer but, like many other people, I either unplug it or remove the bulb from the cluster. Change the O2 sensor every 80,000 miles (IMHO, multiples of 75,000 are easier to remember).

Actually, it won't give any better performance. It can't. The Renix system has a knock sensor and it's set to run at the maximum advance that doesn't produce knock. As soon as the sensor detects knock, it retards the timing to stop it. Since knock occurs under load, and since "performance" typically produces load, the knock sensor is going to be retarding the timing more with the high altitude CPS than with the standard one. Where it should produce benefits is in gas mileage if you're the type who drives with a light foot on open roads without too many mountains.

Ever look at the header panels ... bare? The header panel is already set up for round headlights, what's lacking is bezels with round holes in them to fit the header panel.

I ran 31x10.50s on factory rims with a 4" lift. The front tires rubbed the frame if I turned the steering wheel all the way to full lock (actually prevented getting to full lock), but there was no interference with the front or rear sheet metal or flares. But there are NO aftermarket rims with 5-1/4" backspacing. I think the most you can find is 4-3/4". I don't know if those will clear the front sheet metal and flares. Anything 4-1/2" or less will not clear without trimming -- unless you severely limit the suspension compression so the tire just can't get the the sheet metal.

Probably a rubber boot.

Sounds like there must be a story behind that ...

I think ALL WJs have the chip. In '99 there were only the Laredo and the Limited. I had a Laredo and it had a chip. If I could possibly have ordered it without it I would have, but there was no delete option. Worst vehicle I ever owned.