Eagle

How haven't I heard of these before? They look fantastic! Any reports of how well they actually work? They worked very well, but the housings were VERY thin sheet metal and prone to rust through if you got a heavy dew on Saturday night.

It's basically impossible for adding a leaf to LOWER the vehicle, unless the added leaf is basically flat and pulls the other leaves out of their arch. My '88 had a 4" lift in it when I bought it. The rear lift was a single, short AAL. It provided the lift, but it rode like a ... truck.

Is the front reservoir of the master cylinder full now? Most likely either a hard line or a hose ruptured.

Did you notice this in the description? I happen to favor Clayton's long arm kit. https://www.claytonoffroad.com/templates/searchnf.cfm?tokns=passed&zq=93600046&rowstart=1&wherefrom=SHOPFRAME&whichord=5293&subclass=3200000&subname=Long%20Arm%20Package%20Deal%20Lift%20Kits&department=01&special=R&class=N&nextprev=0&nextrow=!&prevrow=ZZZZZZ&desc=na&globaldesc=na&uas=N&pagename=Online%20Store%20%3E%20XJ%20-%20Cherokee%2084-01%20Long%20Arm%20Upgrade%20Kits%20%3E%20%20%3E%20Long%20Arm%20Package%20Deal%20Lift%20Kits

If Alldata says that, Alldata is wrong. My '88 Cherokee is at 287,000+ miles and I've never replaced or reset the timer. When the light came on -- I disabled it. End of problem. It's supposed to light up after approximately 80,000 miles -- I just use multiples of 75,000 to make it simple for my feeble brain.

Yes. If the t-case is in full-time and the front axle is unlocked -- you won't go anywhere. The 242 never came with a CAD (and neither did the 228/229 t-case that was the Selec-Trac option for 84-86).

And it is the same as a Cherokee.

Have you even looked at the suspension under your truck? The rear shock mounts are welded to the axle on XJs. On MJs the shock mounts are part of the spring retainer plates.

Those small quad headlamps are difficult to find, and they don't provide decent light. I don't know any XJ owner who has that setup who doesn't complain about the woefully inadequate headlights.

The 231 is slightly stronger, but in several years of wheeling events with NAXJA-NAC I never saw anyone break a 242. So the real difference is simply the 242's full-time 4WD option, that allows putting it in 4WD and forgetting it. On winter road trips, with a 231 I've found it gets to be a nuisance shifting in and out of 4WD as sections of road alternate between snow-covered and dry pavement.

If you are ONLY converting from an open diff to a limited slip, you don't need to touch the pinion. You do still have to set/adjust carrier bearing preload and backlash. But ... you were talking about buying a new ring AND PINION in order to change the ratio. You take your driveshaft to a driveshaft shop and tell them to make it ___ inches shorter. You can do it either way. But I wouldn't cut the perches off the old axle to put onto the "new" axle. First, if you go from a Dana 35 to a Dana 44 or an 8.25, the tubes will be larger and the perches from the Dana 35 won't fit. The factory perches are only welded along the outside -- if you're half decent with an angle grinder you can cut the welds without damaging the perches, and just relocate them. And you'll want the factory MJ perches on the original MJ axle so you have a template from which to match dimensions and angles.

You don't need it. The timer doesn't control anything other than the light on the dashboard, and that's just a reminder to replace the oxygen sensor.

No. XJ axles are set up with the spring perches on the top of the axle, MJs are set up with the spring perches under the axle. Also, the distance between the perches is different for the XJ than for the MJ. To use an XJ axle in an MJ somebody has to cut the spring perches off and weld new ones in the correct location.

Yes, you can. But, depending on what ratio the axle has and what ratio you want to change to, you might also have to buy a new carrier. (Of course, if you convert to a limited slip you have to buy a new carrier anyway.) You'll also need new carrier bearings, new shims, and a new pinion crush sleeve. And then somebody has to set up the new ring and pinion gear. They don't just drop in -- since you don't have either the tools or the experience to do it, just the installation will cost you a few hundred dollars in labor.

4.11 is NOT the most common ratio for an XJ or MJ Dana 44. The Dana 44 was found mostly behind the 6-cylinder engines (although AMC would allow you to order it with a 4-cylinder), and the ratios for the 6-cylinder were 3.07 for 5-speeds and 3.55 for automatics.

The AX-15 is a 5-speed. There is no neutral safety switch with the manual transmissions.

Slightly better in traction, much better in life expectancy because it doesn't use clutches. However, the manufacturer only recommends it up to a certain tire size, which isn't all that big the way people are building Comanches these days. I think they don't want you to go larger than 32" tires.

No. Check the illustrations in the post above. Your only choices are Dana 35 (all years), AMC Model 20 (1986 only), and Dana 44 (1987 - 1992) -- they do not look at all alike. The easy way to see if you have a working limited slip is to jack up one rear wheel, with the brake off and the transmission in neutral, and try turning the wheel. If it doesn't turn, you have a Trac-Lok. If it does turn, either you have an open diff, or you have a Trac-Lok that's worn out. I don't know if Dana Spicer ever made one, but Jeep never offered it from the factory. If you have a Dana 35, you must buy a Dana 35 carrier. If you have a Dana 44, you must buy a Dana 44 carrier. Both axles have what's called a "carrier break" -- certain ratios need one carrier, other ratios need a different carrier.

Are they worth it? Probably not. They don't hurt anything, but those would be about the last thing I'd be spending my hard-earned money for.

No. The factory always offered a Trac-Lok limited slip as an option for the rear axle. Any of the factory rear axles could be bought with limited slip: AMC 20, Dana 35, Dana 44, Chrysler 8.25 (if you're looking at Cherokees).

There is no seal at the diff housing when the axle is equipped with the CAD. The only seal on the passenger side with the CAD is on the outboard side of the CAD.

For an '86 the 3.4L V-6 is a much better choice than the 4.0L. No body work involved, and you can get decent power out of the 3.4L, especially if you keep the EFI.

And his original post in this thread specifically states that he has a 2.5L.

Not with a 2.5 liter engine. The 2.5 doesn't have enough torque or horsepower to turn tires that large through 4.10 gears.

Where did you find the fuse? What rating did you use? Part number(s)?