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Everything posted by Eagle
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If you still have the factory flares on the front, the stock ride height was 17-1/2" measured from the center of the hub straight up to the bottom lip of the flare. What's your measurement? Subtract 17.5 and that's how much lift you actually have, with all that extra weight on the front. Choose rear springs accordingly. If you don't have the factory flares (or if you want to double check): http://comancheclub.com/topic/11098-how-to-measure-ride-hight/
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I have never found gravity bleeding to be effective. Enlist the help of a friend and do it the old-fashioned way.
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Don't ignore the obvious -- did you put the calipers on the correct sides, so the bleeders are on top?
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Side Triangle Vent Window Leak
Eagle replied to 1989 Eliminator's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
My leaky vents are pre-Chrysler. My original Cherokee is AMC all the way. -
Side Triangle Vent Window Leak
Eagle replied to 1989 Eliminator's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Bollocks is right. In 1988, the operable wing vents were an extra-cost option on the Pioneer trim level. By offering to replace my operable (but leaky) vents with the fixed ones, Jeep was asking me to throw away the money I paid to get operable vents. And they weren't willing to refund the money I paid to get the defective vent windows. As for sealing them by adjusting something -- you can't. The problem is that the metal surround on the glass doesn't run all the way around the perimeter. Where the metal ends, there's a pronounced, sharp step. The molded rubber seals don't step that sharply, the transition is more rounded. This leaves a small gap that invites water to come in. It's just a bad design, and it's difficult to correct a bad design by adjusting parts that simply don't fit together. I "fixed" it by sealing the vents with silicone. That essentially transformed them into fixed windows, and in fact I haven't used them in twenty-plus years. But -- I can open them if I want or need to. -
Okay, if you want to guess. The "at rest" (mid-travel) length for several Monroe shocks listed for the MJ is approximately 18.521". This ain't rocket surgery, so round that to 18.5". Add 4.5" and you get 23.0" Step 1: Refer to the Monroe length chart. For the MJ the upper and lower fittings are both L1, so look for an L1/L1 shock with a mid travel length of approximately 23" and a total travel distance somewhere in the range of 8 to 10 inches. Monroe doesn't list the at-rest length directly, so you're looking for something with a collapsed length of about 18.5" and an extended length of about 27.5".http://www.monroe.com/assets/downloads/english/MonroeMountingLengthSpecifications.pdf Step 2: Go to Monroe's application listings to find out what make, model and year vehicle the shocks you find are designed for. http://www.monroe.com/en-US/catalog/Part-Search/ Step 3: Shop for shocks fitting the resulting vehicles in the shock brand and series of your choice.
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I get them at Auto Zone
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The shock length will depend on how you position/reposition the lower shock mounts when you put in the lift. If your truck is now stock, the lower mount is a stud that extends off the lower spring plate, which is under the axle and under the leaf spring. If all you do is install an add-a-leaf, then you'll need a shock with a mid-travel length about 4 inches longer than stock. If you go to the Monroe on-line catalog, you can look up shocks by end fitting and length to get a part number. Then go to a different section of their web site to cross-index that part number to what vehicle(s) it fits. The look up Bilsteins to fit that vehicle. There is only one rear hose, from the frame to a junction block on the rear axle. You will need a longer one. '95 YJ is what I used with a 4" lift.
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I'm going to assume that when you dropped the transmission to change the clutch, you first removed the shifter from inside the cab so you wouldn't have to "feed" the shift handle through the hole in the floor. If so -- are you sure you reinstalled the shifter with the little ball at the bottom properly engaging the shift rods in the tranny? My guess is that the shifter isn't engaging the mechanism properly.
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Renix full cluster tachometer question
Eagle replied to big66440's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Hey, we got there in the end. So we can check calibration ... just not directly. What kind of transformer is needed? Any old thing that puts out 12 volts? -
Renix full cluster tachometer question
Eagle replied to big66440's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
You are correct. But, does 60 cycles (Hertz) per second translate directly into something we can use to assess the calibration of a tachometer? IMHO, not directly. The power is 60 cycles per second. As you note, this is 3600 cycles per minute. But ... 3600 cycles does NOT equal 3600 RPM. A 6-cylinder engine fires 3 pulses (cycles) per revolution, so 3600 cycles ==> 1200 RPM. A 4-cylinder engine only fires 2 pulses per revolution, so 3600 cycles ==> 1800 RPM. -
Renix full cluster tachometer question
Eagle replied to big66440's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Cool -- I never knew that. Of course, that just confirms operation, it doesn't address calibration. (Or does it?) -
Renix full cluster tachometer question
Eagle replied to big66440's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
It's not a screw, it's a potentiometer. -
86 2.8l ax5 to 95 3.4l / 94+ ax15
Eagle replied to Kano808's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Doesn't the AX-15 have a larger input shaft? That means you can use the 2.8L pressure plate, but the disc (the part that engages the input shaft) will have to be something that will fit the AX-15 tranny. -
any way to reduce the amount of oil I'm burning?
Eagle replied to thejim42's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
I've always used air. -
Renix full cluster tachometer question
Eagle replied to big66440's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Your opening post said the tach does return to zero. Which is it? Yes, or no? -
^^^ Ditto. Can't send you a PM -- is your inbox full?
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Renix full cluster tachometer question
Eagle replied to big66440's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
No. -
What year is the XJ?
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Who has over 200,000 on a daily driver?
Eagle replied to 88AMComanche's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
287,000 on my '88 XJ. It was my daily driver until a fuel line ruptured underneath. Once I get that repaired, I expect it to be my daily driver through the winter. My goal is to make 300,000 -- after that, we'll play it by ear. -
any way to reduce the amount of oil I'm burning?
Eagle replied to thejim42's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
Dunno, but valve seals (which aren't really seals, but "deflectors") are cheap and a lot easier to install than doing a tear-down. Give it a try. -
Rancho lists a "full-length" add-a-leaf kit for the XJ (Cherokee) and MJ (Comanche). Of course, it won't be full-length in a Comanche, but it will be "long" rather than "short." The Rancho catalog says it generates 2-1/2" of lift, but that's the XJ spec. In the MJ it's more like 1-1/2". I used a set on a '78 full-size Cherokee that was badly sagged in the rear, and it brought things back to a bit higher than stock height -- which allowed me to get 31x10.50s onto the drums without having to jack the body away from the axle. Should run about $80 at today's prices, I think.
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Renix full cluster tachometer question
Eagle replied to big66440's topic in MJ Tech: Modification and Repairs
^^^ This. Think of it this way: All the tachometer really does is count ignition pulses. For a 6-cylinder, it takes 3 pulses for one revolution. For a 4-cylinder, it only takes 2 pulses for one revolution. So at 1000 RPM, the 6-cylinder engine generates 3000 pulses. The 4-cylinder engine only generates 2000 pules at 1000 RPM. Put a 4-cylinder tach into a 6-cylinder vehicle that idles at 1000 RPM, and the tach will report those 3000 pulses as 1500 RPM all week long. -
:doh: I knew that -- I was just testin' ya ... yeah, that's it, just checkin'
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Withdrawal (especially forced withdrawal) is tough. Got up Friday morning, checked e-mail and weather forecast as usual, and went out to a meeting. Came home around noon to find no Internet. Called AT&T technical "service" and was told they would have it fixed within four hours. Okay. Went out again. Returned home around 4:30 p.m. to find a message on my answering machine telling me my DSL connection had been repaired. Happy. Went to the computer and fired up my browser. No Internet. NOT happy. Called technical "support" again, and was told it would be fixed within four hours. 9:00 p.m. came and went -- no Internet. Called technical "support" again, and was told it would be fixed by 3:30 a.m. Woke up Saturday morning -- no Internet. Called tech "support." Now they tell me there's a general outage in my area, but they can't predict when it might be repaired. They said they would call me back between 11:00 a.m. and 1:00 p.m. with a status report. I went out to use the free Wi-Fi at McDonald's. Came back around 4:00 p.m. -- no Internet, no phone message. Multiple calls later, still no useful or comforting news. The second-to-last technical "support" person I talked to had a heavy Indian accent, but he claimed to be in California. They don't even know where they are supposed to be, because earlier a different tech "support" drone told me the support office is in the Central time zone. Around 3:00 p.m. on Sunday I called again. This time I got a young (sounding) female who mercifully did not have an Indian accent, and who was at least pleasant and seemed genuinely apologetic that I'd been without DSL for over 48 hours. But -- she still couldn't tell me when I could expect to see a resolution. It's now 7:00 p.m. on Sunday and I have Internet. My relief is palpable.
