Eagle

If it has been sitting for a long time I suspect a frozen caliper. Either the caliper is stock and can't slide on the mounting pins, or the piston is stuck inside the caliper and isn't fully releasing when you take your foot off the brakes.

The aux fan also needs a relay, which you will probably have to add if the truck didn't have the fan from the factory.

The glass is curved, IIRC, so it's not going to be easy getting one made. Al auto glass except the windshield is tempered, and you can't cut tempered glass ... nor can you bend it. I know the factory sliders are curved, so I assume the fixed glass is also curved.

Why would a bad booster cause the brakes to fade, only when going downhill? That doesn't compute. Brake fade is almost always caused be heat, and if the brake fluid isn't fairly fresh that's the first thing I would look at. Next thing would be a caliper that's hanging up and dragging. Did the 88's have bad boosters? That's very subjective. My '88 XJ has 287,000 miles on it, and it still has the original booster. No complaints from this corner.

In 1988 the auxiliary fan could be provided as part of: Air conditioning Off-Road Package Heavy duty cooling package Trailer towing prep package] It was not standard on all vehicles.

Yep, computer-controlled carburetor. Piece of excrement, but computer controlled excrement. I think you may need an O2 sensor in there -- I don't think it was only in California.

I never heard of a sleeve for the rear main seal. I'd say it's impossible -- how could you installit, even if you took the crank out of the block? I believe the double-lip seal is a Felpro product, and available from NAPA.

I think that's exactly what I need. Thanks for posting the source for those shims ... I was going to try making my own.

Bung for the O2 sensor.

No, it would go the other way. The sender for the idiot light is, obviously, an ON/OFF switch. The sender for the gauges is a variable resister. The resistance is 0 ohms when cold (no resistance = "ON"), and 88 ohms (high resistance ~ "OFF") to read all the way at the hot end of the scale. Alternate idea: I have always liked the concept of a warning light to back up the gauges. The MJs have that status light cluster to the left of the primary instruments. There are typically several unused lights (or spaces) in that cluster. What about adding an HO-style thermostst housing with an idiot light sender, and connecting that to an unused space on the status light cluster?

Where is the diagram you're trying to post the link to?

Well, to be fair the extended length you cited was off by three inches. That's enough that it could have made the difference between fitting and not fitting. When I took the 4" lift off my '88 MJ, the lift shocks were much too long. I had a pair of shocks that I wanted to use, and fully extended they were half an inch too short to even put on the vehicle. An extra three inches would have meant I could have used them.

Okay, then the shock you cited will work. In fact, it's the OEM replacement for the Comanche. But your lengths are wrong. It's 13.375" collapsed and 23.125" extended. The mid-travel length is 18.250".

I just posted in your thread about "What sensor is this?" That is the newer, external slave cylinder, and it is NOT OEM for an '89 MJ. This confirms my guess that the previous owner swapped in a newer engine, apparently with the clutch and probably the transmission all together, and then couldn't get it to run. There is a way to connect your master cylinder to that slave, but it's strictly a do-it-yourself setup. A number of years ago, and the annual NACFest off-road weekend in Pennsylvania, one of the guys with a '94 XJ had the plastic line from the master to the slave melt and rupture. He's a good driver, and he made it back to the campground with no clutch. He and another of the guys went into town, caught the local auto parts emporium just before they closed, and bought a bag full of miscellaneous fittings and a length of steel brake line. It took them a couple of hours, but they did come up with a combination of parts that worked -- and the steel line won't melt!

The first one is for a 1986 thru 1990 engine, with the Renix system. The second is for the 1991 and newer engines with the Chrysler injection/ignition system. Also, the flywheels are different, because the two CPS types don't operate the same. What year is the Jeep you bought? It might have a replacement engine. On the right side of the block, forward of the distributor IIRC, there should be a flat area with a bunch of codes stamped into it. If you can find it, post what it says and it may tell us what year the engine is. If it wasn't running when you bought it, my guess is that you have a Renix model, the previous owner swapped in a newer engine, and he didn't realize that the ignition and injection systems aren't compatible. So the new engine wouldn't start, he got frustrated, and passed the problem on to you to sort out.

This does not sound right. What is the measurement from the lower shock stud to the upper shock stud, with the truck parked on level ground?

You forgot to post the photo.

Find Monroe's web site. Don't bother with their shock finder "app," because you're not looking for OEM replacements. Measure your truck sitting unloaded, on level ground. The pin-to-pin distance is what you should be aiming for as the mid-travel length for your new shocks. On the Monroe site there is a chart (from the back of their paper catalog) that lists all their shocks with the end mounting types and the collapsed and extended lengths. For an MJ, you need an eye mount top and bottom (but you can use a shock with a cross pin on one end and remove the cross pin). Write down the numbers of the shocks whose collapsed and extended lengths straddle your measured pin-to-pin height. You should find at least two or three in each series of shock that will work, but look for the one(s) with the most travel and with a mid-travel length as close as possible to your ride height. If you can be happy with Monroes, you're done. Take the part number to Advanced Auto and put your money on the counter. If you don't want Monroes, you can go a couple of more steps. Also on the Monroe web site is a cross-application chart. You can use that chart to do a reverse lookup for each of the suitable shocks you found, and the chart will tell you what vehicle(s) they fit. Once you know that, you can look up shocks for that vehicle from any brand you want.

That particular carb was such a piece of ... "work" ... that you could do better just pouring gas into the intake by hand. Years ago I took one to the professional carburetor guy all the local racers knew and used, and he almost threw me out of the shop. He did finally try to tune it up, he only charged me ten bucks, and he said, "If it doesn't run, don't come back." It ran, but it was still a piece of ___.

??? Respectfully, are you categorizing Hornbrod as unfriendly for agreeing with you that you are in over your head? That's certainly what it seems like, and if that's it ... IMHO you're making a serious mistake. You absolutely will not find more in-depth knowledge of the Comanche anywhere on the Internet than here. Period. And we're all willing to share our knowledge and information with anyone who is interested in preserving the MJ line. Many of us have already made the mistakes that other people are just beginning to contemplate, so if someone here says "DON'T DO THAT" ... there's probably a reason. Do we always agree on everything? Nope. After all, a bunch of idiots who persist in messing around with trucks that have been out of production for 23 years are likely to be independent thinkers and probably have more than a little bit of a stubborn streak. Such people are unlikely to agree on much of anything beyond today's date. On occasion, after having spent much time answering the same questions from different people, there's a tendency to not spend as much time re-writing the same information but just to refer the new guys to previous discussions that cover the same ground. That's not unfriendly ... it's efficient. Also, recognizing when someone is getting in over their head, and agreeing when the person suggests that they already know it, is also not unfriendly. Dissuading you from spending a LOT of time and a LOT of effort, and probably a lot of money on a project that may very well never be completed because it's beyond the person's capabilities is not unfriendly ... it's about as friendly as it gets. Ever hear the expression "Dutch uncle"? A Dutch uncle is the guy who always tells you the truth, even when you'd rather not hear it. Sometimes that's what we need. You acknowledge that you're not a mechanic. You are embarking on a project that many mechanics would avoid, simply because there are too many variables and subtle factors to be addressed. You're not doing a simple engine replacement. You are looking to swap in an entire drive train, electrical system, fuel system, and cooling system that are ALL completely different from what you have now. Can it be done? Sure. Is it easy? No. Then it gets more complicated because you are also looking at body/chassis modifications. You need a 4.0L radiator, and that means changing the radiator supports. You need to decide whether you will go with the "open" or "closed" cooling system. That alone will give you a headache that'll last for months, because there is no consensus as to which is "best." You want to mate an HO transmission and transfer case to a Renix engine. They are from different generations of the MJ, so there will be factors you'll need to account for. Every swap of this type is unique, because everyone does it differently. For that reason, there is no single discussion thread or book that can tell you exactly what you're going to encounter and exactly how to overcome it. So if you're not experienced enough to dive in and work out solutions to the problems that will inevitably come up (even with help from guys here), then you ARE in over your head and it would be better to know that before you start rather than after you've sunk 100 man-hours and several hundred dollars into it and you still don't have a truck that can be started and driven. You think some of us are rude? Try posting on Pirates4x4.

Not impossible, just a lot of work. Remember, the 2.5L in the 84 and 85 Cherokees had a carburetor. So it can be done, but it would involve (I assume) not just bolting on a carburetor in place of the throttle body, but also converting the ignition system to the 84-85 system. You would also have to change the fuel delivery system, because a carburetor typically operates at about 7 psi (max), and I'm pretty sure even the TBI injection ran a lot higher than that.

And the 1986 numbers were: . . . SPRING ASSEMBLY *** 8952 001 240 . . . Coded RD 8952 002 351 . . . Coded RE 8952 001 824 . . . Coded RF 8952 002 350 . . . Coded RG 8952 001 825 . . . Coded SD Although the part numbers changed, probably as a result of converting from the AMC numbering system to Chrysler, except for the RB (which went away) the codes are the same as in Hornbrod's list.

Respectfully, Joe, don't you think it would be nice to warn customers that you are supplying only one of what you say were three variants of the factory spring? The factory service manual lists only two ride heights, one for 2WD and one an inch taller for 4WD. It may be that the long wheelbase chassis weighs more than the shortbed, so maybe the longbed trucks get stiffer springs (or more arch) to compensate for the additional weight. I don't know. What I do know is that if I bought a set of new springs that are supposed to replace factory stock springs and ended up 2" or 3" higher than stock I would be very, VERY unhappy. I would, as I posted above, be sending them back to you and I would expect you to cover my shipping both ways, since IMHO they would not be as advertised. Also, as of June 1986, the date of my factory MJ manuals, there were five rear spring part numbers, not three. It wouldn't surprise me at all if more were added in later years, considering that for model year 1986 there was no shortbed, only the longbed.

Stock height is 17-1/2" from the center of the wheel/axle/hubcap straight up to the bottom edge of the fender flare. Or, to be more accurate, look up the posts that show the FSM method of checking ride height.

I could almost like that, if it had black dials with white lettering. For some reason I can't stand white-face instruments.