chicofuentes0224

Listen guys, I'm not crazy. Way back umpteen posts ago the discussion came up over whether to turn a closed loop system into an open loop system was better. Eagle has the same set-up as does Pike. Even BLHTAZ chimed in and said having to do it again he'd run with Eagle's set-up so not to have to mess around with the fan temp switch bung in the rad the the open system did not have because it was in the thermostat housing. Eagle used a Moroso metal tank. I bought the same one but realized it was easier to do it PIKE's way becuase the MOROSO tank required some modification to get it to mount. The MAC tank looks just like the original plastic one but is metal. Mounts the same way, hence my decision to buy it. Eagle said, fill it to the top, instead of halfway like the plastic tank and run a line from the top fitting to a second plastic tank to basically turn the closed system into an open system. Am I making sense or did I get it wrong? EAGLE and PIKE, please chime in here.

That's strange because mine's filled to the top. Once it heats up and expands it flows to the second overflow bottle. Once it cools down it gets sucked back into the system. Maybe I'm wrong but I thought that's what it was designed to do. Pike where you at?I have the exact same settup as yours so what does yours do?

Jt, you mean because of a headgasket leak? There is no oil in my coolant and no coolant in my oil. I just checked for exhaust fumes in my coolant a couple of weeks ago with a block tester from NAPA. Fluid came out good to go so unless the head gasket blew today I don't think so.

Nope, that's a flux-capacitor, it works on nuclear fission, and really doesn't kick in until ya hit 88 MPH. On a side note, that junkyard has some nice people working for it. They treated me real well when I called.

Which one of you guys is bleeding the brakes?

Rich that line that he told you to run to the floor is running to an overflow bottle on mine by the airfilter. I think there's still air in the system like Pete said. I went and checked it after a 4 hour cool down. The level in the second bottle was a little lower but the big story is that when I turned on the engine air bubbles started coming out of the second tank. I let it heat up again past 220* and it was still bubbling so I guess there is still air in there. I'll let it cool down and run it again. Hopefully it fixes itself like Wahoo's did.

Yeah I'm sorry Wahoo. The title is confusing. It's officially an open system now. I'm just running a radiator with no filler neck and at the time I typed the title I was just trying to get coolant in the whole system. I'm gonna drive home and check to see if the system sucked up anymore coolant.

I'm pessimistic about the idea. I've done it at least ten times before with absolutely no change in my temp. But for the sake of argument I'll pull that sensor again tonight after it cools down. BLHTAZ says he's done it with the engine off instead of on. I've tried it both ways. Anybody think it won't work if the trucks not running?

Rich, I put my new rad in. No change in temp. It's still running hot.

Got it filled. I'm still running hot. I no longer have a closed system because I added the metal tank instead of the plastic bottle and added an overflow bottle. I'm out of ideas to get this engine to run cooler.

Guys, I put my new rad in and filled the metal expansion tank thinking it would fill the rad and block up. Turned the truck on and it didn't work out as planned. In two minutes my temp gauge flew into the red zone and pegged itself there. Where did I screw up. Should I fill the rad up first thru the upper rad hose first? Anything else I should do to make this go easier and correctly?

Ok-dokey. I woke up this morning and ran to autozone. They couldn't help so I bought a generic metal line, put the fitting on it that connects to the rad, atached a rubber hose to the other end, bent it by hand and called it a day. Next question is next thread.

In my quest to win the coveted MORON OF THE MONTH award I replaced my radiator tonight in the dark and somehow managed to bust a hole in the upper metal line going into my rad. Anyone know if this is a part I can buy at the local auto parts store or am I going to have to special order it or make a new one?

Ravines

Pike, I was going to talk to Eagle about the overflow bottle he has. I'll let you know when I do. On a side note. I ordered a CSF radiator (87-90) for a closed system from MotionOffroad Thursday afternoon. I got it this morning via UPS. Three bussiness days later. Great fast shipping. Here is the site from Motion. http://motionoffroad.com/catalog/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=136 I'll be putting it in as soon as I get the truck back from the welder and will update.

Relax, five bucks says two days from now they'll find it in a Denny's parking lot with the keys under the tire. Worst case is that they'll take your stereo and maybe tires. It happened to my 84 VW GTI. Stolen from Harrisburg and dropped off in Reading.I got a call five days after it was stolen saying it had been abandoned in the parking lot. I'll keep an eye out over here but I bet ya it's still in Philly.

Sounds like the head gasket

By adding the plastic overflow bottle by the air cleaner I made it an "open" system. I can now fill the metal expansion tank to the top and the fluid runs to the the plastic one when it heats up and expands and then gets sucked back in when it cools down. I guess the other advantage is I now have more fluid in the system and I don't have to worry about bleeding the air out of the closed system anymore.

Yep, same one. I got the idea from Eagle and the website from PIKE. It's worth the money to me because I bought three plastic bottles from dealers and all the caps' thread went to crap causing the system to not be under pressure and having coolant blow out the top. I'll never have that problem again. I also bought a CSF rad from Motion and am waiting for it to arrive. Hopefully it solves my problem. However, you could save some money and do away with the expansion tank altogether and get the radiator for 91 and up that has the filler neck. It doesn't have a bung for the fan switch but it doesn't matter for you because you're already running the aux fan on a seperate switch. I spent the extra money for the metal expansion tank because I wanted it to stay as stock as possible. I just posted pics of my tank in the MJ projects section if you want to see. Keep us updated will ya?

My door hinges on the driver's side have rusted off. I dropped it off today with a friends uncle to have him weld it up. Here's a pic of my driver's side floorboard. Please take note of my fingers sticking out through the bottom.

Installed everything. Here's the pics. The plastic overflow tank from NAPA was crap. I couldn't see any fluid going in it because it wasn't. The nipple on the bottom of the plastic overflow tank that I put by the air filter didn't even have a hole in it. I had to make one. Factory defective. Guess where it was made? Yep, CHINA. :D .

Rich, I'm having a similar problem. I don't overheat but I am running hotter than the advertised 210*. I also did everything you did except I bought the metal tank to replace my plastic tank and basically converted it to an open system by adding an overflow bottle. I'm still running "hot" (215*-220*) at the the thermostat housing. My radiator looks newer and I had the system flushed twice at Valvoline. I'm thinking that there is still a blockage in the rad so I ordered a new one from MotionOffroad. It's supposed to be here this week so I'll let you know if it works.

LEAD when you painted yours did you sand or primer any of it or just spray the new color on top?

This one was nice. I'm surprised nobody posted it up here. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110274591880&ssPageName=ADME:B:WNA:MOTORS:1123

Oh good, so the dangerous blowfish inflamation has finally calmed down. For a second I thought I might have to send an EMS crew down there just in case a severe breakout of dehydration epidemic rears it's ugly head. :D