Geonovast

Pulled the valves out of the head.

I would trace the wires and see where they go.

Would the cylinder bore gauge be able to determine how deep the score is though? I'm just worried that it'll pop up like 0.050 deep, and be too much to bore out.

I don't know of any preference in brand, but I do know you should avoid reman. Whatever you get, get a new one.

It's not worthless. It wasn't specifically for the CAD axle, it's used to store vacuum for anything that uses it... my 4.0 MJ had a cracked canister, and it caused my vents to blow hot all the time.

Have you done a compression test?

Is there any way to measure the score mark in the cylinder wall to determine if it can be bored out, or if I need a new block?

There's a shop about 45 minutesish away that'll bore it out for $20 a cylinder. Any way you guys know of to measure how deep it is before I haul it to a shop? Pulled the valves today. In my uneducated mind, they look like they'll be fine to reuse after a lap job.

If it's from a yota, it's probably not an AX-15. It should be an R151, very similar to the AX-15. A 4.0 bellhousing should bolt to it, but the input shaft is going to be entirely the wrong size. Are you sure it's a 231? A lot of yodas used a top shifting case. A picture of this thing would be good.

They began getting rid of the CAD in 91. I've only ever seen ONE 91 with a CAD axle, and nothing newer with one. Even if you had the CAD system hooked up, it would be controlled by pulling the T-case lever anyway. The CAD system was put in to attempt to help with mileage, but was more trouble than it was worth. Locking the CAD is your most efficent fix. Don't even think about installing the vacuum harness and switch, the posi-lock kits can be expensive and really aren't worth it unless you have a reason to use 2wd Low. Either lock the CAD, or get a 1 piece axleshaft for the driver's side from a non-CAD D30.

Lock the CAD over. viewtopic.php?f=9&t=18415

Pull the fuel line off the rail and see if it pours out of there like it did straight off the tank.

Grinding gears is usually indicative of a clutch problem.

How soon would you need it? If you don't have one by the next time I go up to WI, I could probably get one too you. I don't really go near Slater though..

Looks like your TCU. The Aisin-Warner on the label gives it away.

:doh:

If the resistor was the problem, it should crank, start, run for a second, then die. Should. It shouldn't prevent it from starting all together.

Trans: viewtopic.php?f=9&t=11699 The difference in 4.10 or 4.11 is usually just people not knowing the actual gearing of their axles. For the 4.10 ish range, the Dana 30, Dana 35, Chrysler 8.25, and I believe the ford 8.8 all have 41 on the ring, 10 on the pinion. This gives you exactly 4.10:1 gearing, no rounding. The Dana 44 has 45 on the ring and 11 on the pinion, giving you 4.090909090909090.... rounded to 4.09. AFAIK, no common Jeep axle has a 4.11 ratio. If you're dealing with Dana 30 and Dana 35, all the ratios exactly match between the two.

Pulled the head. May need a new motor. 1-2 3-4 Here's #1, which had rather low compression. now I know why. Sucker's deep enough to feel through a rag. Here's two more, can't feel these ones though.

Are you sure the pump is spinning the right direction? First time I changed a pump, the terminals were not marked, so I put the wires where they were on the original pump. No dice. They were switched, my pump was spinning backwards.

This is Missouri. I can work through the Winter :yes: Hopefully most of the repairs will go smoothly, and all that I'll need is a job to drive her to every day and finish everything on it, then decide what I'm doing with ole' smurfy over there.

Right next to the TPS on the throttle body.

Closed system was only on 87-90 4.0s.

Sticking/faulty IAC.

All 2.5s have an open cooling system.