dasbulliwagen

I have a sale setup with Coheed on the Camaro. I have listed the Comanche and Wagoneer in the sale section here for anyone interested, with pictures.

I have a 1986 Comanche X with no engine or transmission, with a title not in my name. The truck is too solid to scrap and will make a good project for someone. It was originally a 2.8, 5 speed 4x4. I bought it as a parts donor for my 87, which is where all it's good parts went. It is currently a 2wd, with 3.55 Dana 35, manual steering box and non AC and a burgundy bucket seat interior. There is minor rust in the floors, and body damage on the bedsides, but it appears to be repairable. The 86 XJ is another 2.8 that has a bad torn down engine, with lots of body damage. It has the A904 auto, NP228/229 transfer case, and non disconnect front axle. I'm not sure of the axle gearing, but from research, it may have 3.73's. It is basically a drivetrain donor, and has no title, with a light blue interior. I'd like these to go together if possible. $1500 for both of them together, buy one, get one free. In Asheboro, North Carolina, 27205

It doesn't, sorry. It didn't have any of that on it when I got it. Anything Wagoneer specific was gone. I mainly took it as a drive line donor.

I'm sorry, I know, I hate the "What should I ask?" posts too, but I really am looking for advice on how you think the best way to do it would be. here's the context... I have an 86 MJ that I used as a parts donor for my 87. I swapped the axles, the transmission, the HVAC box, the power steering etc from this truck to my 87. Its now just a 2wd roller with minor floor rust and some bedside damage. I also have an 86 Wagoneer with some front structural sheetmetal missing, and other exteriorbody damage, and a partially disassembled bad 2.8. It however has an A904, NP228/229, and non disco front axle. I'm not sure on the gear ratio, but from what Ive found, it may be 3.73. It also has all the AC and P/S stuff in it that could be put back in the MJ. On top of all that, I have a good running (when it wants to run, possible starter issue or security issue) 1994 Camaro 3.4/ 4L60 that was meant as a donor for the MJ to build it. The MJ and the Camaro have titles not in my name. These are all in Central North Carolina. My question is, if I sold this as a group, as a project, what would a good asking price be? Or do you think it would be easier to sell them separately. I have $125 into the MJ, and $1500 into the Camaro. The Waggy was given to me free. Would this be more interesting as a project grouping, or am I just dreaming here? Thanks.

Bought an 8th Gen 2010 Civic 2 door for my daughter's first car with just under 100,000 miles, and spotless other than a few spots of peeling paint. It started out as a lease, then sold to an old lady, who had it quite a while. There is evidence on it that it sat for a while before they sold it to a used car lot. That and she was a smoker. I'm still working on remediating the smell, but it really wasnt that bad to start with considering. I expect it to last my daughter through high school and college, as long as it doesnt get wrecked. My search for an older car in the 5-7K range was tough. I can't believe how many salvage title cars are out there on the road right now. I had no idea. And when or if you do find a good clean one, you need to pounce fast, and have cash. I missed out on a very nice, and undervalued Accord because of not being first in line. I told the guy too, he had it valued about $3000 less than what he could have sold it for, assuming it was a decent car. Nice ones are out there. I work for a dealership and was able to get free carfax reports on all that I was serious about. That really helps with a search for something decent. Glad you found a good one. As a former Michigan resident, now in North Carolina, I know your struggle with winter beaters.

As a former dealer tech that replaced the KJ lower balljoints as a recall, they arent hard to do, and i never had to use a press to replace them. I always used an air hammer with a chisel bit to get them out, and a hammer to put them back in. I could have them both replaced and back on the road in 45 minutes, especially the 2wd ones.

i never looked into the tow hook option, but i did add a front hitch that has two tow loops welded onto it in addition to the 2 inch receiver.

Thats more of I have a lifted 2.5 4 cylinder and yours is a stock 4.0 on stock sized tires. Yours seems effortless to drive, while mine seems like it really has to work.

Your response from those shops sounds more like they just don't want to do it. Most places don't have the room or equipment to technically rebuild an engine in house. If you were to have them find a warranted rebuilt long block, that might be a different story. If youre looking to keep it 100 percent stock original youll have a harder time finding someone to do it. What many people do with the 2.8 trucks is to find a donor vehicle with a 3.1 or 3.4 and swap that in using the accessories and mounts from the 2.8 to bolt it in and get it to work. The flywheel or flex plate just needs to be nuetrally balanced before install.

I'm in the same town as ClassyComanche the original poster. I've never run into people like that lambasting me for something not in my control. I'm a bit scarier looking than classy though so maybe that's why nobody talks to me. 👹 This whole thing with the Native American names being used comes up about once every 5-10 years or so. It's usually brought up by Caucasians too, trying to virtue signal, and not by the tribes themselves. When these vehicles were named by the corporations, we weren't worried about weather or not it was exploitative, or offensive. It was a different time then. Those of us with no skin in the game profit wise, just think of it as paying tribute to those names. Should the corporations maybe give something back to the tribes for use of the names? It would look good on them if they did. Jeep has used the Cherokee name since the 1970's, and GM was using the Apache name in the '50's, with Comanche name being used for 7 years. Not to mention aircraft used by the military and civilians. At this point, what is done is done, and Karen's shouldn't bother others about things they have no control over.

The exhaust gasket on my 2.5 finally blew out all the way, so it's time to install the aFe header I bought for it several years ago. It blew out because like all of them the very front bolt/ stud broke off. It was actually like that when I bought it 15-16 years ago. I thought the very rear one was broken too, but evidently it just fell out. While I have it apart, I'll be deleting the EGR, installing new motor mounts, and doing a full tune up. The aFe header is made for late model 2.5's, so there's no EGR port, and no O2 sensor bung. I cut a bung off of an old exhaust pipe, cleaned it up, drilled a hole and welded it on. All I need to do now is extract the broken bolt, and put it back together.

As a former Jeep dealership tech, I can say we never had any issues with the 3.7/4.7 timing components. This is especially true if you do the required regular maintinance. Those engines are very intolerant of poor maintinance which has given them a bad name.

I actually worked for that dealership for 4 years before they were bought by the current owners. I stayed on with the current owners until 2019, being the very last carryover person from the old dealership. The sales manager for Classy's truck currently works at the Chevy dealership I now work at, and his signature can been seen in the paperwork from the trucks original sale.

It has to do with the position of the linkage. The 6 cylinder, the case is farther back,thus giving space for the azzys rod, on the 2.5 the linkage is right under the shifter, and the rod can not be installed. I tried. I ended up selling the Azzy kit I bought.

The factory linkage or some form of cable aftermarket kit is all I know about. You might try to look at a TJ Wrangler t case shifter. I'm pretty sure they are cable actuated, but you'd need a case mounted bracket from a TJ to hold the cable as well, and maybe even the case shifter arm itself. I've never heard of that conversion being done, so it's purely just an idea. If you're not good at fabricating things then it may not matter anyways.