feerocknok Posted May 7, 2006 Share Posted May 7, 2006 I bought some ProComp XTerrain 31x10.50R15s, and I've got some rims with less backspacing for them to go on. Apparently these are "true" 31s. My lift is 3" coils in front (according to the place I bought em) and 2" in back (lift shackles). Am I gonna need more lift to not rub? I have 1.75" coil spacers sitting around now, and I've got leaves for a bastard leaf pack that I wanted to do anyways, but will I be okay with just the 3"/2"? The truck's in the air STILL, and isn't ready to have tires under it in any way. What are everyone's thoughts? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GirsMJ86 Posted May 7, 2006 Share Posted May 7, 2006 you should fit them because a 3" lift is what they say you need for 31" tires. maybe just add the xtra inch in the back for other reasons but you should clear them. alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
88swampedmj Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 do you still have your sway bars on?.... and bumpstops.. i don't think youd rub... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onlyinacomanche Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 I have a three inch lift and rub a little in the front with 31's but I also still have the stock rims. I think if you have even just a little backspacing in the rims you won't have any problems. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROADLESS Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 At full flex with stock bump stops, i bet they will rub. :eek: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Stumpy Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 ahh a little rubbin good for ya..lol i have a RC 3" with 33's and i don't rub enuf to worry about.. :brows: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted May 8, 2006 Author Share Posted May 8, 2006 Stock bumpstops are on. Don't know what to do for the swaybar. The current one has stripped threads and my father insists on me having it, cause I do alot of nighttime highway driving, but right now it won't bolt up. Is it acceptable to fendercut a Comanche if they rub? I know destroying the bed is unnacceptable. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 I voted no, but you didn't really provide enough information. You need to know what the backspacing will be in the aftermarket rims, and you need to tell us if you have extended your bump stops. Your question actually can't be answered accurately based on no parameters, so No is the safe default. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 Don't know what to do for the swaybar. The current one has stripped threads and my father insists on me having it, cause I do alot of nighttime highway driving, but right now it won't bolt up. FIX IT! Immediately. Your father is right. The factory didn't spend the money to put that on just for ballast. Even at stock height an XJ or MJ with no front sway bar WILL roll over if you have to make an emergency maneuver at (or even below) highway speeds. With a lifted vehicle driving without a front sway bar is suicidal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROADLESS Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 I'm with Eagle on this one, repair the swaybar! What exactly is stripped: the front mount (where the bushings are)? or the sway bar end links? If its the end links, now would be good time to get yourself a good set of quick diconnects. :redX: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted May 8, 2006 Share Posted May 8, 2006 I had some 31x12.5 x-terrinas on 10" wide rims and they rubbed on a 4" lift :eek: Rubbed so bad that I promptly sold them. (this was on an unfinished project MJ). As for the swaybar :roll: What they said x10. I ran w/o right before I took Pong offroad for good, and I didnt like they way it made me feel, especially over 20mph :oops: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted May 9, 2006 Author Share Posted May 9, 2006 I'll check out the disconnects at the truck shop and see if I can build a set. The portion where the links meet the bar is what's stripped. I'll measure the rims as soon as I get the chance. Pingpong, what were the rims you were running? I'm kinda afraid of cutting. My Toyota turned out great, but I wanna keep/get this truck purty and would hate to mess it up. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 You can run 31x10.50s on the stock rims. They'll tuck inside the flares when the suspension compresses. The only rubbing you'll get is the inside shoulder of the tires will rub the lower control arm when you turn the steering wheel to full lock. That's not a biggie -- you either learn where to stop turning (as I did), or you shim the steering stop in the knuckles with a flat washer or two so you can't turn far enough to rub. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 I wasn't going to say anything, but I don't have a swaybar, haven't for a long time... Doesn't handle too bad. You just have to remember you're driving a heep. Actually, it drives way better with the radius arms than it did with the stock 5-link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 The radias arm setup flexes more so it can lean :brows: It really didn't bother me, until one of my friends asked what was wrong with my rig when I took a slow curve at speed :D As for what rims they were... I am not sure. It was on a project MJ that I quickly sold the rims and tires off of, cause I didn't like 10" rims, or the noise the x-terrians made Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROADLESS Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 here's a link i remembered on some inexpensive DIY disconnects. Normally i recommend buying quality discos, such as JKS Quicker Disconnects, but if you need a temporary fix, something like these may work ( at least until you come up with a better solution). http://lunghd.com/Tech_Articles/Suspens ... Discos.htm :idea: In your case, the barrel nuts may have to be welded on to the stripped out end of the sway bar end link. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ROADLESS Posted May 9, 2006 Share Posted May 9, 2006 You should be able to find a replacement end link at your local boneyard. (this post should have proceeded my earlier post) :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted May 10, 2006 Author Share Posted May 10, 2006 I have aluminum rims that are 9" wide with 4" of backspacing. I also have steel rims that are 7.5" wide with 5" of backspacing. Aluminum: Steel: Does anyone know what the steel rims are from? A friend just had em. Thank you guys for all the help. Roadless, my top bolt is the one stripped so those ones plans won't work, but thank you. Think I'll just use a grade 8 bolt and the pre-existing tubey-dealy with some flux-core action. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GirsMJ86 Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 feerocknok those rims are from mjs. my 86 has them stock. been looking for one for a spare with center rim and an xtra rim for my rear tire w/o one. they look good in metallic black on mjs too. :D alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DirtyComanche Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 They were stock jeep fare. You could get them on MJs and XJs, maybe YJs too. The aluminum ones will be where it's at, I'd think. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted May 10, 2006 Author Share Posted May 10, 2006 GIRsMJ86, if you wanna pay for shipping I'd be happy to help out a fellow MJer. I just need one to mount my spare on. DirtyComanche, I was thinking the same. I've heard aluminum rim horror stories as well though. Maybe everything has a horror story. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted May 10, 2006 Share Posted May 10, 2006 GIRsMJ86, if you wanna pay for shipping I'd be happy to help out a fellow MJer. I just need one to mount my spare on. DirtyComanche, I was thinking the same. I've heard aluminum rim horror stories as well though. Maybe everything has a horror story. Especially owning a Comanche :brows: so as soon as you get a chance you need to sell it and buy a ricer car :chillin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted May 10, 2006 Author Share Posted May 10, 2006 GIRsMJ86, if you wanna pay for shipping I'd be happy to help out a fellow MJer. I just need one to mount my spare on. DirtyComanche, I was thinking the same. I've heard aluminum rim horror stories as well though. Maybe everything has a horror story. Especially owning a Comanche :brows: so as soon as you get a chance you need to sell it and buy a ricer car :chillin: I got the 2.5... I got a ricer truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GirsMJ86 Posted May 11, 2006 Share Posted May 11, 2006 well my zip code is 44820. so let me know how much for the rim and one center cap. thanks alot. alex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
feerocknok Posted May 11, 2006 Author Share Posted May 11, 2006 Haven't weighed it, but estimated 20 pounds in a 16"x16"x8" box was $67.05. Don't know how much that is in comparison to finding one locally, but if it's worth it, I'll get a more accurate price. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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