robfg67 Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 I found a 6' bed that the owner is selling to me for $100. The owner is removing the bed himself and is including the tailgate & tail lights. It's also the same color as my truck. However, it does have some rust and a dent. The owner told me that the rust does not go all the way through and he sent me these pics. The darker pics are of the backside of the panel so I can see that the rust does not go all the way through. The truck is 3.5 hours away so I can't easily just drive by to inspect. Can those of you who have experience with rust damage, tell me what you think of this bed? Do you think I should be able to sand down, prime, and repaint? Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Image Not Found Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rokhound Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 i would say go for it I mean for 100 you could resale the taillights for 50 and the tailgate for 50 and the box if it not what you want just sell it for 50 or 100. just my thougths Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 That rust isnt too bad..... For 100 bucks plus the drive , not bad at all... It wouldn't take much to fix those spots... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted April 5, 2008 Share Posted April 5, 2008 The bubbling of the paint would worry me a lil. That means the rust is coming from inside out.. which could mean it is way worse then it looks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted April 5, 2008 Author Share Posted April 5, 2008 Pingpong, can't I just sand down the "bubbling" rust? Do you think that a hole will result? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 Tell the guy to take a putty knife and scrap the decal/paint off to see whats underneath.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted April 6, 2008 Author Share Posted April 6, 2008 I googled "bubble rust repair" and it wasn't good. Plain & simple-this type of rust damage should be cut out and/or replaced altogether. This bed isn't even worth $100. I may need to drive about 6 hours south to get a rust-free bed. ...the search continues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
maddzz1 Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 The bubbling of the paint would worry me a lil. That means the rust is coming from inside out.. which could mean it is way worse then it looks. Thats not good. The comanche emblem on my passenger side fell off because of this. Should I sand the area down now and try to prevent it from spreading? I will continue to keep looking for you too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brigarpeon Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 For $100 bucks that bed is worth it. You didn't show the tailgate or detail of the tail lights but if they are good, for sure. The bubbles you show are why I hate adhesive backed decals. What has happened is a rock or something similar has chipped the paint at the decal line and water has worked under the decal. It will be more work to remove and smooth that dent in the rear quarter than fixing the rust. If that's the worst of the rust I'd buy it for 100 and I'm picky too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 Maybe its just that I live in the south, but I would fix the spots, IDK,, I'd just grind the bad and fill, prime, block, paint... If it comes back do it again.. maybe just an acid wash on it then fill it with primer... If you do it right the first time shouldn't have no more problems out of it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted April 6, 2008 Author Share Posted April 6, 2008 I hear yeah, brigarpeon. It might not be "inside rust" and a good prep job could stop it, but it might not either. I would rather pay more or drive further south to find a clean bed. One has to come available eventually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brigarpeon Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 Maybe its just that I live in the south, but I would fix the spots, IDK,, I'd just grind the bad and fill, prime, block, paint... If it comes back do it again.. maybe just an acid wash on it then fill it with primer... If you do it right the first time shouldn't have no more problems out of it. I have a process I use just for these kind of spots. Wire wheel til shiny Muratic acid brush let it set about 5 minutes Rinse w/ warm water and let dry Shoot a covering coat of etching primer...wait 5 minutes Full coat of etching primer... let cure 4 hours Fill low spots with thin coats polyester filler, let cure, sand Repeat, Fill low spots with thin coats polyester filler, let cure, sand Spray with sealer primer, fogging coat... wait 5 Full coat sealer primer... let cure 4 hours Sand lightly w/ 600 grit watch for high spots Fill any low spots with glazing putty Spray with sealer primer, fogging coat... wait 5 Full coat sealer primer... let cure 4 hours Sand lightly w/ 600 grit Spray with full coat of a different color primer sealer Sand; if flat Top Coat if not work it til flat Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted April 6, 2008 Share Posted April 6, 2008 Maybe its just that I live in the south, but I would fix the spots, IDK,, I'd just grind the bad and fill, prime, block, paint... If it comes back do it again.. maybe just an acid wash on it then fill it with primer... If you do it right the first time shouldn't have no more problems out of it. I have a process I use just for these kind of spots. Wire wheel til shiny Muratic acid brush let it set about 5 minutes Rinse w/ warm water and let dry Shoot a covering coat of etching primer...wait 5 minutes Full coat of etching primer... let cure 4 hours Fill low spots with thin coats polyester filler, let cure, sand Repeat, Fill low spots with thin coats polyester filler, let cure, sand Spray with sealer primer, fogging coat... wait 5 Full coat sealer primer... let cure 4 hours Sand lightly w/ 600 grit watch for high spots Fill any low spots with glazing putty Spray with sealer primer, fogging coat... wait 5 Full coat sealer primer... let cure 4 hours Sand lightly w/ 600 grit Spray with full coat of a different color primer sealer Sand; if flat Top Coat if not work it til flat sounds good to me! I too like to use two colors of primer lets me know when I need to stop sanding.. I also use a guide coat on final block to make sure I'm straight.. , but I would only wire wheel surface rust,, anything that I need to fill I want some big scratches to keep filler stickin.. I use alot of acid etch primer alot as well... I love sem products... you should check out PPG's dx1791 self etching wash primer.. once you spray it on you can barely get it off.. It a great base for adhering primer.. epoxy, and urethanes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted April 6, 2008 Author Share Posted April 6, 2008 Can you guys tell me what brands and where you buy your materials? Unless a rust-free bed shows-up somewhere, I guess I'll try and repair the damage myself. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Car RamRod Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 <------the seller. Like I said Rob, if you change your mind, just let me know and hopefully I'll still have it. Matt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 Can you guys tell me what brands and where you buy your materials? Unless a rust-free bed shows-up somewhere, I guess I'll try and repair the damage myself. Thats a hard question to answer... I get most of my paint from Forest City Paint supply.. that is where I buy SEM products.. I goto Carolina Paint & Supply to get PPG products.. I use K36 as my #1 primer.. over a ds sealer and the Deltron line of paints,, along with a DC line of hp clear.. well that is if I'm going to spray something,, otherwise I just use all sem products,, and alot of dupli-color.. You need to goto a automotive paint store and talk to the guys there.. they will set up up with what you need.. You need either a grinder or some sand paper.. 80,180,320 grits will get you started,, go get you some sem acid etch primer, and then a can of primer sealer. find out how the rust is first,, then go from there.. muric acid works good and you can get it from lowes or home depo,, brush it on the rust,, let it sit then rinse it off... dry it off quick with air or even a hair dryer then spray the acid etch on it... don't let it sit,, get something on the spot as soon as possible to keep it from flashing rust.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xjcrazy09 Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 did you wind up buying the bed? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted April 7, 2008 Author Share Posted April 7, 2008 No, I did not buy the bed. Let me know if you want it. I'll send you his contact info. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 To me the bed would be worth 100 bucks if it wasnt for the 6 hr drive. The bubbling surface rust is something ppl don't always pay attention to. If properly treated... it might not be as bad as your search on goolge said, but it could be worse. Keep in mind they have not made these rigs in 15+ yrs so finding a rust free one is going to get harder and harder. :brows: I live in a farming area... you can find MJ's and IH rigs every where.. but most if not all have been abused, and need rust repair Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted April 7, 2008 Author Share Posted April 7, 2008 Jtdesigns, I agree that it will be difficult to find a rust-free bed but, I just started looking and would make a week-end trip out of driving a very long distance to find one. These two write-up’s on rust damage swayed me to avoid that bed. http://forums.off-road.com/toyota-suvs- ... -rust.html http://www.helium.com/items/685831-repa ... hout-doubt jtdesigns, thanks for your follow-up. A local auto body supply store should be a great source of high-quality materials. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Car RamRod Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 I'll just clean down to the metal and show there's no rot if that'll make the sale. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche87 Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 i have the same type of issues with my bed. i samded them sown as much as i could with out going through. then i took the rust fix in a spray can and soaked it. i let it dry and sanded itagain. then i sprayed it again then took bondo and coated it. i did that like bout a month ago and it looks better but i havnt sanded the bondo yet. that helped me in a lot of spots on my bed. i still got more spots to go. i got a 6ft bed. id liike to find a better bed but I'm dealing with what i have for now. hope this helps Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jtdesigns Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 i have the same type of issues with my bed. i samded them sown as much as i could with out going through. then i took the rust fix in a spray can and soaked it. i let it dry and sanded itagain. then i sprayed it again then took bondo and coated it. i did that like bout a month ago and it looks better but i havnt sanded the bondo yet. that helped me in a lot of spots on my bed. i still got more spots to go. i got a 6ft bed. id liike to find a better bed but I'm dealing with what i have for now. hope this helps Be careful bondo hoids moisture.. When you decide to fix it sand all that bondo off and respread it,, them prime, seal, top coat.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
comanche87 Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 will do thanks man. hopfully i get my truck done this year! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Car RamRod Posted April 7, 2008 Share Posted April 7, 2008 comanche87, I also suggest using bondo made for smoothing fiberglass; it holds up better to water. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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