MJ Dana 44 Front Axle

[brigarpeon]

I knew I had read this article somewhere. I was trying to find out more from the internet and not having much luck. Finally I found it in my temp files again. So.... here it is to share wit y'all.

http://www.off-roadweb.com/tech/0702or_ ... index.html

I just may have to get a project outline with upgrades going before I start on that truck I bought from WahooSteeler. This is a bolt on! In the body of the article, I believe on the second page it says to use the spindle out stuff ffrom your 30 for 5 x 4.5 pattern retention. In the article they upgraded to 5 x 5 1/2.

[xjcrazy09]

why did you list the topic title as a Dana 44 ?

[Drahcir495]

I knew I had read this article somewhere. I was trying to find out more from the internet and not having much luck. Finally I found it in my temp files again. So.... here it is to share wit y'all.

http://www.off-roadweb.com/tech/0702or_ ... index.html

I just may have to get a project outline with upgrades going before I start on that truck I bought from WahooSteeler. This is a bolt on! In the body of the article, I believe on the second page it says to use the spindle out stuff ffrom your 30 for 5 x 4.5 pattern retention. In the article they upgraded to 5 x 5 1/2.

I am doing this right now. Getting the knuckles off the 30 was a ho-wore. I am working on getting the caster right {the drag link is hitting my axle side sway bar mount} this weekend and doing the write up on it. I don't know if they mention it in the article or not, but you are going to have to order $50 in specialty hardware {nut and bolts}for the lower control arms. The factory bolts will not work. - Rich

[jeepthing07]

It's a junk Rubicon low pinion D44/D30 hybrid. "With a little dealing, we had the bare Jeep Rubicon housing sitting in our driveway for under $600 with the Jeep parts tag still attached." they think they got a deal buying one of the weakest D44 housings ever made? he would have been better off swapping high strength shafts into the HP D30 he already had wouldn't have been much weaker and he could have saved a lot of money.

[brigarpeon]

why did you list the topic title as a Dana 44 ?

 

Because the article is about using the rubicon 44 hosing as a bolt in for an MJ.

[brigarpeon]

It's a junk Rubicon low pinion D44/D30 hybrid. "With a little dealing, we had the bare Jeep Rubicon housing sitting in our driveway for under $600 with the Jeep parts tag still attached." they think they got a deal buying one of the weakest D44 housings ever made? he would have been better off swapping high strength shafts into the HP D30 he already had wouldn't have been much weaker and he could have saved a lot of money.

Low Pinion housings were used for years by Chevy, International Harvester, early Ford even our beloved Jeeps. Not a problem if you don't run 4WD all the time. The only thing that makes this a hybrid is the axle tube and knuckles, usually they don't break anyway. The center section is still a 44 w/ all it's inherent strengths and the axle itself and it's yokes are beefier. This isn't a Rock Krawler upgrade it's a DD upgrade. It's all about perspective.

BTW: The weakest 44 ever made you will find in the rear of a WJ and has an aluminum center section.

[CWLONGSHOT]

This will help!!

 

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayI ... 83233&rd=1

 

CW

[jeepthing07]

Low Pinion housings were used for years by Chevy, International Harvester, early Ford even our beloved Jeeps. Not a problem if you don't run 4WD all the time. The only thing that makes this a hybrid is the axle tube and knuckles, usually they don't break anyway. The center section is still a 44 w/ all it's inherent strengths and the axle itself and it's yokes are beefier. This isn't a Rock Krawler upgrade it's a DD upgrade. It's all about perspective.

 

Yes i know this... But HP are stronger when used in the front because the reverse cut of the gears actually drive on the drive side of the gear not the coast (like low pinion) so your not really gaining much strength there. And being a high pinion the pinion is like 4" taller improving driveshaft angles and keeping the drive shaft better protected. The tubes are the same thickness as the D30 your really not gaining that much strength for the price your paying. you get 30 spline shafts and if they are built anything like the 297X D30 shafts it don't matter because the ears will rip off the shafts before the joint fails which is why you need aftermarket shafts anyways. The only real benefit you get is in saying "my jeep has a D44 front" but the only people you will impress with that line is guys that bolt brush guards on their geo metros. I just think if your going to swap a D44 do it right and use a HP44 with .500 tubes kingpins and locking hubs.

[brigarpeon]

As I said; when not running in 4WD all the time it doesn't matter whether the gears run on the drive or drift side. On a fully locked Rocker, FULL BOOGIE TRAIL BUGGY OR Mud Monster it would matter. The axle in a DD would only be engaged when needed. The yokes on the axles are much beefier hence the higher resistance to breakage at the point you've referenced and also heavier u joints. I don't have the desire to Impress anyone, don't care whether they know I have a 44 or not. I do care about breakage at the most miserable times. I have a front 79 Ford HP with lockouts and a Scout 44 w/ discs but that's just too much work for a DD.

[jeepthing07]

If you could get a complete one in a junkyard cheap it might be worth doing, But these guys just threw money at it hoping it would stick. They could have gotten a custom dynatrack pro44 for the money they dumped into that rubicon 44.

 

housing $600

elocker $687.96

yukon gears $159.60

Superior Axle right $384.39

Superior Axle left $363.39

Hub Conversion $1,242.99

Bearing seal kit $199.00

Yoke $50

 

for a subtotal of $3684

 

And that don't even cover the cost of the gears they paid to have set up or the new rotors and other odds and ends. :nuts:

[Eagle]

This is a complete no brainer. Anyone who would do it has no brain.

 

The strength gains overall are so negligible that the cost-to-gain ratio is astronomical. It doesn't add sufficient beef to make for a decent rock crawler. And for DD duty, as you suggest your purpose is, you can make a stock high-pinion Dana 30 as strong or stronger for a LOT less money. The only real advantage to this is that deeper gears are available for the D44 ... but for daily driver use you probably don't need anything deeper than 4.88 anyway, so what's the point?

 

Save yourself a lot of work. Just take $3,000 out of the bank and put a match to it.

[Mitch]

F' THAT! GIVE ME THE $3k!

[Eagle]

F' THAT! GIVE ME THE $3k!

No, that might allow the $3,000 to be put to some constructive use. My point is that this conversion, as described, is a complete, total waste of money, and still involves a lot of work. If you're going to piss away that kind of money, at least save yourself the physical work and just torch the bills.

[TNT]

As I said; when not running in 4WD all the time it doesn't matter whether the gears run on the drive or drift side. On a fully locked Rocker, FULL BOOGIE TRAIL BUGGY OR Mud Monster it would matter. The axle in a DD would only be engaged when needed. The yokes on the axles are much beefier hence the higher resistance to breakage at the point you've referenced and also heavier u joints. I don't have the desire to Impress anyone, don't care whether they know I have a 44 or not. I do care about breakage at the most miserable times. I have a front 79 Ford HP with lockouts and a Scout 44 w/ discs but that's just too much work for a DD.

 

Then slap on a truss on your HP D30 and buy a Super 30 kit and use Spicer gears. You could even do a WJ knuckle/brake upgrade

 

You will have an axle that is better then the pinion draging TJ frt D44.

D30's can use the same u-joints as a D44. All you will be doing is wasting money otherwise..

 

Donate it to cure cancer or something worthwhile.

[shelbyluvv]

BTW: The weakest 44 ever made you will find in the rear of a WJ and has an aluminum center section.

 

Um, you might want to research the D44HD that is in the WJs. Just because it is aluminum does not means it's weak.

[brigarpeon]

BTW: The weakest 44 ever made you will find in the rear of a WJ and has an aluminum center section.

 

Um, you might want to research the D44HD that is in the WJs. Just because it is aluminum does not means it's weak.

I did my research and it's rated last choice by the Pro Jeepers on everysite I looked at. If you have something different, I'm open.

[Twisty]

If you're going to spend $3k on a 44, you might as well just get a 60. I found a 1979 Ford 60 for $650 locally. Its sitting outside, waiting for $$$ to swap it in.

[brigarpeon]

If you could get a complete one in a junkyard cheap it might be worth doing, But these guys just threw money at it hoping it would stick. They could have gotten a custom dynatrack pro44 for the money they dumped into that rubicon 44.

 

housing $600

elocker $687.96

yukon gears $159.60

Superior Axle right $384.39

Superior Axle left $363.39

Hub Conversion $1,242.99

Bearing seal kit $199.00

Yoke $50

 

for a subtotal of $3684

 

And that don't even cover the cost of the gears they paid to have set up or the new rotors and other odds and ends. :nuts:

 

Yeah that's my plan; already found 1 in the JY w/ 57,500, 4:10 for $250. I don't need the locker, YET. I merely posted the link for the JUNKYARD tech part for the others who could fiqure it out.

 

I can trade a Dana 60 carrier w/4:10's and a Traclock to a buddy for an 8.8 explorer w/ 70,000 and disc's. I just put a 2.5L, AX5 w/21 spine 231 all out of a 52,000 mile wreck in my donor Comanche about a year and a half ago. Now, I bought an 87 truck for 1,000 from wahoosteeler. http://comancheclub.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=8333

 

I plan too have a rustfree truck w/ a 50,000 mile drive train for about 3,000 tHE WHOLE TRUCK. The truck is 2WD and the donor has 200,000 on the axles so that's why I can go with a TJ 44 and 8.8 with Low miles.

 

These guys are a little off their rocker, the magazine spent 4k. I can't afford it but I will be driving a freshly painted, 4x4, rustfree truck with an average of 55,000 miles on the driveline for 3k+.

[brigarpeon]

If you're going to spend $3k on a 44, you might as well just get a 60. I found a 1979 Ford 60 for $650 locally. Its sitting outside, waiting for $$$ to swap it in.

Have a 79 Ford HP44 front and 60 rear, sold the tranny and T-case. I'm only spending $250 on the axle.

[brigarpeon]

This is a complete no brainer. Anyone who would do it has no brain.

 

The strength gains overall are so negligible that the cost-to-gain ratio is astronomical. It doesn't add sufficient beef to make for a decent rock crawler. And for DD duty, as you suggest your purpose is, you can make a stock high-pinion Dana 30 as strong or stronger for a LOT less money. The only real advantage to this is that deeper gears are available for the D44 ... but for daily driver use you probably don't need anything deeper than 4.88 anyway, so what's the point?

 

Save yourself a lot of work. Just take $3,000 out of the bank and put a match to it.

 

What makes you tallk to me like that? The Title thread? Maybe I have different plans for the 3k. You could have PM'd that unless you wanted to be derogatory.

[Twisty]

If you're going to spend $3k on a 44, you might as well just get a 60. I found a 1979 Ford 60 for $650 locally. Its sitting outside, waiting for $$$ to swap it in.

Have a 79 Ford HP44 front and 60 rear, sold the tranny and T-case. I'm only spending $250 on the axle.

 

Out of an F250 I hope. I know the Bronco 44's had the cast wedges on...so they're hard to use with an MJ suspension.

 

If you already have the hosing, then go for it! Just upgrade the axle shafts to alloys...then you can do 37"-28" tires. TnT sells a weld on truss that will make installation really easy!

 

Are you going to use the 60 rear? Planning to upgrade to 35 spline axles? You're going to have to bore out the spindles to accept 1.5" shafts. The stock 60 shafts are probobly 1.31" 30 spline shafts, which are the exact same as D44 shafts. ;)

[brigarpeon]

If you're going to spend $3k on a 44, you might as well just get a 60. I found a 1979 Ford 60 for $650 locally. Its sitting outside, waiting for $$$ to swap it in.

Have a 79 Ford HP44 front and 60 rear, sold the tranny and T-case. I'm only spending $250 on the axle.

 

Out of an F250 I hope. I know the Bronco 44's had the cast wedges on...so they're hard to use with an MJ suspension.

 

If you already have the hosing, then go for it! Just upgrade the axle shafts to alloys...then you can do 37"-28" tires. TnT sells a weld on truss that will make installation really easy!

 

Are you going to use the 60 rear? Planning to upgrade to 35 spline axles? You're going to have to bore out the spindles to accept 1.5" shafts. The stock 60 shafts are probobly 1.31" 30 spline shafts, which are the exact same as D44 shafts. ;)

 

Out of a 79 F250 Highboy. I'm going to trade the carrier w/ gears and track lock for an Explorer 8.8. My buddy wants it for a Ford and he's looking for a reverse cut 44 for the front. He's 15 years younger than me so I was thinking to trade off the axle, leafs, blocks for some parts swapping help. I also have a 79 Scout frame w/ a 44 front and rear, 927 auto connected to a Dana 300 T-case. I could use the 44 out of that for the rear but it's only 3.54 gears. I'm not building an off road truck this will be a DD. I just want the 8.8 for the little extra strength, rear disc's and the one he has only has 72,000 miles on it but would need rebuilt w/ 4.10 gears to match the TJ I found w/ 57,000 at the JY.

[Eagle]

BTW: The weakest 44 ever made you will find in the rear of a WJ and has an aluminum center section.

 

Um, you might want to research the D44HD that is in the WJs. Just because it is aluminum does not means it's weak.

Yes it does.

 

In fact, it is so weak that the factory service manual cautions never to jack up the back of the vehicle with a floor jack under the pumpkin, because the weight of the vehicle pressing down on the tubes while the jack pushes up on the center section will warp the center section.

 

I had a WJ with that axle. It was howling like a banshee after less than 10,000 miles.

 

PURE JUNK!

[Eagle]

What makes you tallk to me like that? The Title thread? Maybe I have different plans for the 3k. You could have PM'd that unless you wanted to be derogatory.

I was trying to talk you out of doing something you will probably regret before very long.

 

Looks like I didn't succeed.

[brigarpeon]

I was trying to talk you out of doing something you will probably regret before very long.

 

Looks like I didn't succeed.

 

The only reason I went this direction is because; the project truck is 2 WD, The TJ axle was low miles, geared right and $250. I'll spend more than that to regear the 30 in the donor Comanche. It's a gas miser w/ 3:31's and has 200,000 miles on it so that would be an easy $5-600. I posted the article for the tech not the process, and really not the price tag. I really don't need a locked front axle. I just don't understand how the same axle used in a Jeep TJ with very good results can be considered so bad for a Comanche destinied for the same type of operation. If I had that kind if dinero I'd get (2) 9" Currie axles set up for the Comanche control arms and SOA.