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To get everything to clear the steering box I bought a bracket kit to move the alternator up top and place the steering pump right under it.  I eventually ended up using the accessories and brackets that place the belt closest to the engine, which I think is the C5 spacing.

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For the radiator I already had a Flex-a-Lite aluminum radiator with the lower hose on the driver side and upper on the passenger side.

 

For the hoses I used a combination of 90s attached to a Ford (I think it came off a Aerostar or Windstar) thermostat housing.

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I was pretty happy with how the exhaust turned out.  I wasn't looking forward to it.  There was a lot of stuff in tight spaces that I needed to work around, but once I started it went really fast.

 

I bought a couple of universal mandrel bent exhaust kits, a couple different Ys, hangers, and pie cuts to get everything to work well together.

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For gauges I went with Autometer.  I think the fuel gauge in this pic is the wrong one.  I order the wrong one initially.  I think this one read backwards.

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I modified the stock cluster to fit the gauges.

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Used some LEDs to light up the turn signals, high beams, and check engine light.

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I put all the wires through a connector so the cluster can be removed easily.

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For the transfer cases I had the doubler that was built with Jeep cases that included three pinion planetaries and the narrow chain.  I had been collecting 231Cs and 233Cs whenever I would find one for a good price.  Out of all these I wanted to end up with a double with six pinion planetaries and a wide chain.

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If you’re using a corvette power steering pump you need to shim the flow valve down inside or you will blow the seals out of your steering gear box. I just went through it with my truck. Corvette pump operates at 1300-1500 PSI and the stock gear box wants 700-830PSI.  There is a company called Scram racing that makes a kit to shim the flow valve 

 

edit - looks like your using a PSC steering box. Would still check in to that. Would hate to see that get blown out. 

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I think this set up and placement ended up moving the transfer cases around two inches forward.  I got a new rear driveshaft, shortened the front driveshaft, and had to change my carrier bearing mount to move it forward too.

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I decided to run a heavy duty solenoid to run all of my key on accessories.  I also used a couple of bus bars for most of the power connections - one running off the solenoid and the other directly off the battery.

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Around this time it was the weekend before our Rubicon/Fordyce trip, I needed to leave by Tuesday, and I haven't even started this thing.  I spent that weekend working non-stop to wrap up the last few things in hope of making the trip.  I did end up getting it started.  It ran great, but it was leaking almost everywhere, the alternator would charge, the gauges wouldn't work, and all those other little things that come up on a major project like this were not complete.

 

At that point I was exhausted and knew I didn't have time to fix everything I wanted to before the trip.  It was on to plan B.  I loaded up the red MJ and hit some of the easier trails with my father around the Lake Tahoe/Donner area while everybody else ran the Rubicon and Fordyce Creek.

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After I got back from CA I took a break and didn't do much to the MJ for several months.  Then 2020 and COVID happened, which ended up giving me a lot of time for MJ work.  So I got back to cleaning up all those little things and redoing a few things I rushed on.

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The rear main seal was a big issue.  So I got to take the transmission out and replace it.

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While I had the that apart I also replaced that plastic barbell.

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Also replaced the well used torque converter bolts.

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With the 4.0L my passengers were always very impressed by the middle of summer heating performance coming from the transmission tunnel and floor.  With the transmission out I made an effort to tame the interior temperature.

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When filling the cooling system or checking the level I was not happy with the amount of stuff floating around.  I decided to add a coolant filter.  I don't think I've seen any junk floating around since I added this.

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Finding a cooler that fit the limited space left in the bed was not easy.  So I made a mount that works with a couple of coolers we already had.  I built it so that I could still take out the spare tire without removing the cooler mount.

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I didn't have a lot of room for an intake and air filter.  I wasn't interested in a hot air intake.  This version completed sucked, but it at least worked while I was working through other issues.

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I ended up using a later model LS MAF sensor with a Spectre mount, a few silicon and rubber elbows, and some oval to round exhaust tubing to make somewhat of a cold air intake.

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