Looking for a nice cam kit...

[A-man930]

I'm thinking of putting a cam kit in the HO waiting to go in the truck. What I want is a kit that includes a tune. I've seen them before but not for the 4.0, does anyone make one?

[JeepDew]

look for cam cranes...they are making one for Jeeps. Call them up and ask for Tony Vigo, tell him that alex from JeepEdition pointed you in that direction. They where going to make one for us, but the talks got a little cold.

Hope that Help

Mike

[A-man930]

They're making a cam & tune kit? I'll be sure to get in contact with them. From what I was able to find, to get the ecm re-flashed runs about $300 or so alone. That's ridiculous if you ask me, to get the pcm in my LT1 re-flased was about $110...

[LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW]

The DME (ecu) in the XJ/MJ can NOT be flashed. The emprom is not writable.

 

To do anything your going to have to run a standalone setup.

[jtdesigns]

The DME (ecu) in the XJ/MJ can NOT be flashed. The emprom is not writable.

 

To do anything your going to have to run a standalone setup.

 

Is the chip replaceable?

[Eagle]

The DME (ecu) in the XJ/MJ can NOT be flashed. The emprom is not writable.

 

To do anything your going to have to run a standalone setup.

 

Is the chip replaceable?

The Renix is not replaceable. I know the ZJ could be replaced with a Jet chip, so the Chrysler chip in the 91 and 92 MJ might be replaceable -- if anybody makes on for it.

[MrShoeBoy]

DO NOT GET A CRANE CAM!!! They suck! I have had two cams go bad in my motor. The lobes went flat the first time and Crane tried to argue with me that I didnt have it set up right...I was in Daytona at the time and dropped the head off at their factory for them to check out. They had to eat their words about improper setup because the head work was spot on, so I got a new cam. The distributer gear went bad in the second cam they gave me and it wasnt even a year later! I was down in Daytona at the time yet again and they tried to argue with me that it was my falt but after showing them the parts, they gave me another new cam. That cam is currently on a shelf collecting dust. I refuse to run it in any Jeep motor I own.

 

After all that crap, I called up Hesco and talked to Bennie about my motor, what I am doing with it, what I want out of it, and got a valvetrain package from them. Cost twice what the Crane cost me, but after going through 2 of them, the price difference didnt matter. The Hesco cam is still rocking it out and theres a huge difference in power with the Hesco cam and both cams where advertized for the same RPM range/power I wanted. You get what you pay for!

 

As for computer reflash, drop in the cam and run with the stocker. The computer can account for a little bigger cam. If you are going balls out, then you need a stand alone ECU.

 

AARON

[TNT]

The DME (ecu) in the XJ/MJ can NOT be flashed. The emprom is not writable.

 

To do anything your going to have to run a standalone setup.

 

Is the chip replaceable?

The Renix is not replaceable. I know the ZJ could be replaced with a Jet chip, so the Chrysler chip in the 91 and 92 MJ might be replaceable -- if anybody makes on for it.

 

The newer Chrysler style one can be reflashed but hardy anybody does custom programs. Just get a DTEC with the built in wideband O2 sensor, the EGT sensor and you can piggyback the computer to fine tune it, if you really need to. The Chrysler computers can add 25% more or less fuel with the long term adaptive memory and 25% more or less with short term memory so they can adjust the fuel output by 50%. You don't want to max out the long term memory, you need it for temperture changes and such. The short term memory starts at 0% everytime you drive and adjusts as soon as you go in to closed loop. If it has to add more fuel consistantly the long term memory adjusts to get the short term memory back to as close to 0% as possible. An adjustable fuel pressure regulator can add fuel to get the long term back close to 0% after your mods. The DTEC can adjust the map curve to fine tune the fuel trim and it also datalogs your engine so you can record whats going on review it later and adjust as needed. I believe it has 3 different programable settings.

[A-man930]

Here's one place that re-flashes our ('92 and up) pcms:

http://www.bgperformancepcm.com/

But it's way more than I want to spend, especially considering the level of modifications I'm talking about here... What about these JET chips and such? Would it be worth the $$ with an intake, manifold-back 2.5" exhaust, injectors, and say, rockers? Evidently re-degreeing the stock HO cam is worth doing? And what exactly is DTEC?

[HOrnbrod]

DO NOT GET A CRANE CAM!!! They suck! I have had two cams go bad in my motor. The lobes went flat the first time and Crane tried to argue with me that I didnt have it set up right...I was in Daytona at the time and dropped the head off at their factory for them to check out. They had to eat their words about improper setup because the head work was spot on, so I got a new cam. The distributer gear went bad in the second cam they gave me and it wasnt even a year later! I was down in Daytona at the time yet again and they tried to argue with me that it was my falt but after showing them the parts, they gave me another new cam. That cam is currently on a shelf collecting dust. I refuse to run it in any Jeep motor I own.

 

After all that crap, I called up Hesco and talked to Bennie about my motor, what I am doing with it, what I want out of it, and got a valvetrain package from them. Cost twice what the Crane cost me, but after going through 2 of them, the price difference didnt matter. The Hesco cam is still rocking it out and theres a huge difference in power with the Hesco cam and both cams where advertized for the same RPM range/power I wanted. You get what you pay for!

 

As for computer reflash, drop in the cam and run with the stocker. The computer can account for a little bigger cam. If you are going balls out, then you need a stand alone ECU. AARON

 

I'll have to agree with MrShoeBoy regarding Crane cams. Not from personal experience, but by all the horror stories I've seen on the stroker forum. I am also running a Hesco cam (RV-O-B) and it's been running strong for three years now. Several guys I know are running the Unichip 2720011 with good reported results. I've been able to able to tune my stroker well (w/o a chip) using an adjustable MAP voltage input, adjustable FP regulator, and a wideband A/F meter. I have not seen substantial dyno-proven performance gains over my engine to justify the cost of a chip. Just my 4-cents (inflation). :D

[TNT]

Here's one place that re-flashes our ('92 and up) pcms:

http://www.bgperformancepcm.com/

But it's way more than I want to spend, especially considering the level of modifications I'm talking about here... What about these JET chips and such? Would it be worth the $$ with an intake, manifold-back 2.5" exhaust, injectors, and say, rockers? Evidently re-degreeing the stock HO cam is worth doing? And what exactly is DTEC?

 

The stock computer can adjust for all of those mods. A scanner can tell you you longterm readings. use an adjustable regulator to keep the long term close to 0%. A DTEC is a piggyback computer that can adust your map reading from idle to redline. When used with the proper fuel presures and adjustments you can gain power or you can use it to increase fuel economy. It uses a Gameboy Advance SP as the controller. It is great on turbo cars(I loved mine) and it works on non-turbo cars also.

 

 

Here is their description.

 

TurboXS DTEC Fuel Computer

 

If you have modified your vehicle, then the factory engine management system may not be delivering the correct amount of fuel. The DTEC-FC can be used to restore the correct amount of fuel to ensure optimum performance. The DTEC-FC works by altering the main load signal to the factory ECU. Increasing or decreasing this signal by an amount determined by the DTEC-FC’s programmable map can manipulate the factory ECU into delivering the optimum amount of fuel for the engine. The DTEC-FC uses additional inputs such as engine speed and throttle position/MAP to determine the requirements of the engine. The DTEC-FC incorporates four user programmable points of throttle position/MAP to scale the amount of fuel perfectly through 18 programmable RPM ranges.

 

When you mechanically increase the fuel flow on your setup by either larger injectors/pump or a fuel return line that increases the fuel pressure, you’ll need a way to dial back that fuel electronically. The DTEC intercepts the factory MAP/MAF signal and fools the vehicle’s PCM into thinking you’re consuming less boost/air flow into the engine. This provides the vehicle with proper air fuel ratios along with preventing the PCM from retarding timing or hitting �fuel cut� due to maxing out the factory MAP/MAF sensors. The DTEC-FC gives you the ability to save four different fuel maps for different boost pressure and fuel type settings. Drive everyday on your pump gas map, then head to the track and switch to your race gas map after you fill up with the good gas.

 

The DTEC fuel computer not only has the ability to fine tune your air fuel setting, but also gives you real time vehicle sensor gauges such as TPS/MAP (load), RPM, Knock Count, Injector Duty Cycle, EGT (with optional EGT sensor), and Wideband Air Fuel (with optional Tuner box). The DTEC will also datalog all of these sensors for fine tuning.

 

Included with the DTEC fuel computer is a remote mounted KnockLite that doubles as a programmable shift light as well. The KnockLite is completely programmable and adjustable to view and understand severe knock and light knock with the different colored LED flashes. You can also program your shift points with the KnockLite to have your own built in shift light in case you don’t know how to read a tachometer.

[TNT]

DO NOT GET A CRANE CAM!!! They suck! I have had two cams go bad in my motor. The lobes went flat the first time and Crane tried to argue with me that I didnt have it set up right...I was in Daytona at the time and dropped the head off at their factory for them to check out. They had to eat their words about improper setup because the head work was spot on, so I got a new cam. The distributer gear went bad in the second cam they gave me and it wasnt even a year later! I was down in Daytona at the time yet again and they tried to argue with me that it was my falt but after showing them the parts, they gave me another new cam. That cam is currently on a shelf collecting dust. I refuse to run it in any Jeep motor I own.

 

After all that crap, I called up Hesco and talked to Bennie about my motor, what I am doing with it, what I want out of it, and got a valvetrain package from them. Cost twice what the Crane cost me, but after going through 2 of them, the price difference didnt matter. The Hesco cam is still rocking it out and theres a huge difference in power with the Hesco cam and both cams where advertized for the same RPM range/power I wanted. You get what you pay for!

 

As for computer reflash, drop in the cam and run with the stocker. The computer can account for a little bigger cam. If you are going balls out, then you need a stand alone ECU. AARON

 

I'll have to agree with MrShoeBoy regarding Crane cams. Not from personal experience, but by all the horror stories I've seen on the stroker forum. I am also running a Hesco cam (RV-O-B) and it's been running strong for three years now. Several guys I know are running the Unichip 2720011 with good reported results. I've been able to able to tune my stroker well (w/o a chip) using an adjustable MAP voltage input, adjustable FP regulator, and a wideband A/F meter. I have not seen substantial dyno-proven performance gains over my engine to justify the cost of a chip. Just my 4-cents (inflation). :D

 

Some of the cam failure are happening because of the additives the government removed out of our engine oils a couple years ago. I will either use old school deisel oil and synthetic oils. They removed an additive that keeps non-roller cams from wearing prematurely.

[HOrnbrod]

Some of the cam failure are happening because of the additives the government removed out of our engine oils a couple years ago. I will either use old school deisel oil and synthetic oils. They removed an additive that keeps non-roller cams from wearing prematurely.

 

Agree Tim. When Castrol dropped the ball, I tried synthetic Mobil 1. But because of the immediate rear seal leak, I drained the crap and went back old school to diesel 10/30 Chevron Delo; still has the additives w/o the leaks. Oh, and my rear seal doesn't leak anymore. :D

 

Only place I will use synthetics now and forever is in the diff.

[TNT]

Some of the cam failure are happening because of the additives the government removed out of our engine oils a couple years ago. I will either use old school deisel oil and synthetic oils. They removed an additive that keeps non-roller cams from wearing prematurely.

 

Agree Tim. When Castrol dropped the ball, I tried synthetic Mobil 1. But because of the immediate rear seal leak, I drained the crap and went back old school to diesel 10/30 Chevron Delo; still has the additives w/o the leaks. Oh, and my rear seal doesn't leak anymore. :D

 

Only place I will use synthetics now and forever is in the diff.

 

I have had good results with Amsoil ATF in the transfercase. My diffs only see 75w-140 Mopar synthetic gear lube(I have 17 quarts here...). I'm going to try some Mobil 1 0W-40 oil I have in my engine since it only has 3000 miles on it. I can get dextron, mercon or even type F fluid from the International dealer I work for. The AW-4 trans will never see synthetics.

 

I'm going with some high temp racing brake fluid I have some big $ Mopar power steering fluid that works great hot or cold so once I add the cooler it should last and stand up to some abuse.

 

I only use green coolant with distilled water.

[A-man930]

So this DTEC is would be a better option than the JET things? I'm not even sure what features they offer, but I do know I like the multiple settings you can select with this DTEC thing... But it seems like the general consensus is that the stock computer could handle everything fine. That's good to hear. Now what's this I hear about re-degreing the stock HO cam? Does it require a new timing set? Is it known to produce gains? why?