Super_MJ Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 However, there's this need to take it off the chest. Just wanted to state out that it's not easy to remove the camper shell by yourself. BTW I'm going to replace the pinion seal today. I never did it before by myself and any advice would be greatly appreciated. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Confedneck Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 the yoke nut will be super tight, once you get that off, a 4hole puller or hammer and 2x4 is a good way to get the yoke off, replace the seal, and replace the yoke and yoke nut, clean the threads on the yokeshaft with brake cleaner and then use some red loctite on the yoke nut, torque it to about 120 ftlbs, that should keep you from over-recrushing the crush sleeve Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tkgibbs27 Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 Just wanted to state out that it's not easy to remove the camper shell by yourself. haha if they are the fiberglass ones, i fought with the one i had on my truck for sometime. the metal ones are a piece of cake. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super_MJ Posted February 23, 2008 Author Share Posted February 23, 2008 the yoke nut will be super tight, once you get that off, a 4hole puller or hammer and 2x4 is a good way to get the yoke off, replace the seal, and replace the yoke and yoke nut, clean the threads on the yokeshaft with brake cleaner and then use some red loctite on the yoke nut, torque it to about 120 ftlbs, that should keep you from over-recrushing the crush sleeve Wow, do I have to replace the yoke and yoke nut? Just got back from shopping, bought the seal and black silicone (without the yoke and nut) ... guess I'm gonna head back to the store :wall: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super_MJ Posted February 23, 2008 Author Share Posted February 23, 2008 Just wanted to state out that it's not easy to remove the camper shell by yourself. haha if they are the fiberglass ones, i fought with the one i had on my truck for sometime. the metal ones are a piece of cake. My back still hearts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted February 23, 2008 Share Posted February 23, 2008 the yoke nut will be super tight, once you get that off, a 4hole puller or hammer and 2x4 is a good way to get the yoke off, replace the seal, and replace the yoke and yoke nut, clean the threads on the yokeshaft with brake cleaner and then use some red loctite on the yoke nut, torque it to about 120 ftlbs, that should keep you from over-recrushing the crush sleeve This is a good explanation!! Now GET-ER-DUN!!! One little thing...there is no crush sleeve on hi-pinion D30s. That's one of the things that makes it better/stronger!! :brows: The std/lo-pinion has the crush sleeve. Your supposed to replace the nut any time it is removed. But the red loctite and careful removal and reinstallation you should be fine. Its also a GREAT TIME to UPGRADE to a U-Bolt yoke and get red of that strap junk!!! CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super_MJ Posted February 24, 2008 Author Share Posted February 24, 2008 the yoke nut will be super tight, once you get that off, a 4hole puller or hammer and 2x4 is a good way to get the yoke off, replace the seal, and replace the yoke and yoke nut, clean the threads on the yokeshaft with brake cleaner and then use some red loctite on the yoke nut, torque it to about 120 ftlbs, that should keep you from over-recrushing the crush sleeve This is a good explanation!! Now GET-ER-DUN!!! One little thing...there is no crush sleeve on hi-pinion D30s. That's one of the things that makes it better/stronger!! :brows: The std/lo-pinion has the crush sleeve. Your supposed to replace the nut any time it is removed. But the red loctite and careful removal and reinstallation you should be fine. Its also a GREAT TIME to UPGRADE to a U-Bolt yoke and get red of that strap junk!!! CW I don't think there's nothing stock on this rig, the axles are D35s and driveshaft is custom made ... so I guess the Us have also been replaced at that stage of another (although I have no idea). I did replace the nut but put back the old yoke as it looked kind of okay to me. Also, for some reason the yoke and nut came out smoothly without any resistance at all. However, the old seal played stubborn and didn't came out easily at all. Conclusion: Pinion seal: bout $5 Loctite: about $5 RTV (black) silicone: about $5 Having killer backache: priceless! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 GOOD JOB and NICE pics!!! I cannot see your front axle from your pics but it doesn't look like there is a drive shaft. Has it been removed? Your front is NOT a D35, that's for sure. The only front D35 I can think of is in a FORD twin traction beam axle. If the PO left the crappy D35 its quite likely your front is factory as well. That makes it a Hi-Pinion D30. Good luck with it! CW BTW< was this sold on EBAY? It looks familiar. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dfreeman616 Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 i don't see anything about a front pinion, only the rear (which is shown in the pics) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super_MJ Posted February 24, 2008 Author Share Posted February 24, 2008 i don't see anything about a front pinion, only the rear (which is shown in the pics) +1 Just did the rear one today. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CWLONGSHOT Posted February 24, 2008 Share Posted February 24, 2008 the yoke nut will be super tight, once you get that off, a 4hole puller or hammer and 2x4 is a good way to get the yoke off, replace the seal, and replace the yoke and yoke nut, clean the threads on the yokeshaft with brake cleaner and then use some red loctite on the yoke nut, torque it to about 120 ftlbs, that should keep you from over-recrushing the crush sleeve This is a good explanation!! Now GET-ER-DUN!!! One little thing...there is no crush sleeve on hi-pinion D30s. That's one of the things that makes it better/stronger!! :brows: The std/lo-pinion has the crush sleeve. Your supposed to replace the nut any time it is removed. But the red loctite and careful removal and reinstallation you should be fine. Its also a GREAT TIME to UPGRADE to a U-Bolt yoke and get red of that strap junk!!! CW I don't think there's nothing stock on this rig, the axles are D35s and driveshaft is custom made ... so I guess the Us have also been replaced at that stage of another (although I have no idea). Guys, your absolutely right, in reading I don't see it either.... In the above quote, I have bolded and underlined the words that urged me to make my last post. The statement, "the AXLES are D35s", Axles and D35's say to me that he thinks he has TWO D35 axles. One front and another rear. That's all. Then the statement "and drive-shaft is custom made". This is singular. Combined with his pics only shows rear a rear drive-shaft. Just curious about that. But nothing, sans my post on the Hi-pinion D30 to suggest a front diff. The assumption from me was that it was the front pinion seal. I guess it was because of the crush sleeve being mentioned. But the D35 has one so I guess I didn't need to comment on that at all... MY BAD. :oops: :oops: CW Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super_MJ Posted February 25, 2008 Author Share Posted February 25, 2008 ... CW Come on, it just a little misunderstanding and big part of it is my fault. Back to the subject, as far as I know both axles are D35 as well as both driveshafts are custom made. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LEAD_NOT_FOLLOW Posted February 25, 2008 Share Posted February 25, 2008 You need some bigger tires under that thing! :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super_MJ Posted February 25, 2008 Author Share Posted February 25, 2008 oh, and I forgot the main reason I'm here haha "someone" did a crappy job yesterday (with the pinion seal), after about 10 miles on the freeway today all hell break loose (literally) and the rear driveshaft decided it's better to stay on the freeway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super_MJ Posted February 25, 2008 Author Share Posted February 25, 2008 You need some bigger tires under that thing! :cheers: i have to admit it does look funny :chillin: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bhorocks Posted February 28, 2008 Share Posted February 28, 2008 dude, that thing is all bent out of whack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onebigmj Posted February 28, 2008 Share Posted February 28, 2008 I saw a truck like that on ebay a while ago. Was it yours? What size tires are those? Looks like its got room for alot bigger. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted February 28, 2008 Share Posted February 28, 2008 oh, and I forgot the main reason I'm here haha "someone" did a crappy job yesterday (with the pinion seal), after about 10 miles on the freeway today all hell break loose (literally) and the rear driveshaft decided it's better to stay on the freeway. :eek: What happened?? That pinion appears to need a little adjusting. From the pics, it looks like it could go up about 2-3 degrees and take some pressure off of the u-joint. It should be slightly below pointing straight at the t-case as it will move upward just a little on acceleration. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super_MJ Posted February 28, 2008 Author Share Posted February 28, 2008 I saw a truck like that on ebay a while ago. Was it yours? What size tires are those? Looks like its got room for alot bigger. yup, got it on eBay two weeks ago. it's currently running on 31s, can easily go with 35s. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super_MJ Posted February 28, 2008 Author Share Posted February 28, 2008 :eek: What happened?? as far as i know, i didn't tightened enough some of the bolts (u-joint?). after about 10 miles on the i-5 going downhill there was a strange noise ... so i slowed down and soddenly the noise got stronger (real strong fast knocking), apparently the driveshaft got released from the pinion side and turned underneath the truck. pulled over immediately and found the shaft on the pavement underneath the truck (luckily it didn't hit nobody). throw the darn thing in the back, engaged 4h and continued till the next exit. have no idea where to start with fixing this thing. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLHTAZ Posted February 28, 2008 Share Posted February 28, 2008 It may just be a deceiving pic, but it looks like the yoke is bent/spread open in this pic and it also appears that the bearing caps are still in the yoke straps. :eek: If this is the case, I would say that a new yoke and my afore mentioned pinion adjustment may be needed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super_MJ Posted February 28, 2008 Author Share Posted February 28, 2008 It may just be a deceiving pic, but it looks like the yoke is bent/spread open in this pic and it also appears that the bearing caps are still in the yoke straps. :eek: If this is the case, I would say that a new yoke and my afore mentioned pinion adjustment may be needed. one of the bearing caps is somewhere on the i-5 and the other one is still in the yoke, i'll take the yoke straps off and compare the 4 holes for the straps with the new yoke, if matched i guess the yoke is ok(?). pinion adjustment considered as DIY project or should be done by professionals? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mfpdm Posted February 28, 2008 Share Posted February 28, 2008 :eek: What happened?? That pinion appears to need a little adjusting. From the pics, it looks like it could go up about 2-3 degrees and take some pressure off of the u-joint. It should be slightly below pointing straight at the t-case as it will move upward just a little on acceleration. This is true if he has a SYE on the t-case, however seeing how he said pulled over immediately and found the shaft on the pavement underneath the truck That leads me to think the shaft slipped out of the slip yoke on the t-case. If that is the case, the pinion angle of the axle needs to be equal to the angle on the t-case. Either way we need more info on his set up to know for sure. :cheers: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Super_MJ Posted February 29, 2008 Author Share Posted February 29, 2008 ok, so i found some time this morning to attend and start figure out what's wrong and how to repair this truck. first and most important, the yoke nut was not tighten enough and the yoke was loose! second, one of the yoke straps was not tighten enough as well hence the movement of strap (i.e. yoke looks bent). third, it looks like pinion needs some adjustment. to start with, i'm going to replace the pinion seal again (this time i'm going to replace the pinion as well) ... have no idea how to continue from there 8) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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