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Posted

I was planning on plating my frame on my 89 MJ from the front back.

 

The big plan is to extend my cab so it uses 2dr XJ doors which will make it 9" longer. After cutting the frame to get my parts cab I got a real look at the "frame" that is stock. I wasn't impressed at all.

 

Since I will be building a custom bed I started to look at the rest of the "frame". I came to the conclusion that it will be less work in the long run to build a real frame and weld the cab/front end to the new frame. It would still be a unibody per say...

 

I'm working on the design of the frame right now. So far it looks like I might use 2"x5" .188" wall rectangular tube for the frame rails. The frame after the cab will be narrower and become the bottom support for the bed.

 

Part of the plan is raising the front spring and shock mounts. This will allow for more uptravel without spring bind. The rear will still use leaf springs but will have long travel shocks that extend into the bed.

 

Everything will be tied together with a rollcage mabe out of 1.75" .120" wall tube. It will have an over the cab halo, but will have tubing on the inside of the cab that will tie into it.

 

It's still in the planning stages so your helpful input is welcome.

Posted

Have you considered using a frame from an extended cab of another make? I know it won't be a direct fit, but it should be easier than having to engineer a solid and safe frame, and it appears your no stranger to fabbing something up and making it work. :D

 

I've seen an mj somewhere in my surfing that was on either a chevy frame or maybe it was a FSJ frame. I'll see if I can find it again.

 

:cheers:

Posted
why square and not tube for the frame?

 

Rectangular is easier to build mounts for suspension, crossmembers and such. Building with rectangular tubing is easy for me to do and will be very strong.

 

I still have to buy a bender or find someone in my area that has one and is willing to help when it become rollcage time.

Posted
Have you considered using a frame from an extended cab of another make? I know it won't be a direct fit, but it should be easier than having to engineer a solid and safe frame, and it appears your no stranger to fabbing something up and making it work. :D

 

I've seen an mj somewhere in my surfing that was on either a chevy frame or maybe it was a FSJ frame. I'll see if I can find it again.

 

:cheers:

 

Most frames are designed to flex. My plan is to make the frame, cage and body as rigid as possable. Flexing should be done with the suspension not the frame.

 

Fabbing up a new frame will be easier and stronger then plating the stock frame rails. It will also be more rigid then any frame I could drop the body onto. It will fit way better also.

 

Putting it on to a different frame is just too redneck for me. :brows:

Posted
Most frames are designed to flex. My plan is to make the frame, cage and body as rigid as possable. Flexing should be done with the suspension not the frame.

 

Fabbing up a new frame will be easier and stronger then plating the stock frame rails. It will also be more rigid then any frame I could drop the body onto. It will fit way better also.

 

Putting it on to a different frame is just too redneck for me. :brows:

 

Ya got a good point. I guess I would be leary of designing my own frame. I'm not smart enough in that category. :dunce: Yet. :D

Posted

I'm pretty good with Auto CAD and Solid Works if you need me to draw something for you.. Just sketch me something out and give me the dimensions and I'll hook you up..

Posted
This is pretty much what I plan on doing but the rectangular tubing will stop at the back of the cab then it will be all DOM

 

This will work best for the bed I have planned.

Posted
I'm pretty good with Auto CAD and Solid Works if you need me to draw something for you.. Just sketch me something out and give me the dimensions and I'll hook you up..

 

I will definately keep this in mind.

 

Thanks

Posted
.188 is overkill for the 'frame' especially if you have a cage.

 

I have enough 2"x6" .120 wall steel right now to build the frame with.

 

Would that be more appropriate?

Posted

Yes. It'll be stronger than most things.

 

 

Then it's just a matter of going at it. I'd probably cut the floor out of the cab because it's too complicated to bother fitting too. Figure out all your mount locations, draw some pictures, and go at it. Actually, I'd probably ditch the firewall too.

 

I've tried to design a frame that's work better than the stocker many times. In being both lighter and more rigid... It should actually be pretty easy, it's just arriving at a design that fits your needs that's the hard part.

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