75sv1 Posted Friday at 01:29 PM Share Posted Friday at 01:29 PM Also, NAPA has the tube listed: Engine Water Pump Inlet Tube NOE 8257002 | Buy Online - NAPA Auto Parts I used 2000 XJ for the vehicle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted Friday at 01:38 PM Share Posted Friday at 01:38 PM You should not have to dismount the compressor to R&R the water pump. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Friday at 02:03 PM Author Share Posted Friday at 02:03 PM 33 minutes ago, 75sv1 said: Also, NAPA has the tube listed: Engine Water Pump Inlet Tube NOE 8257002 | Buy Online - NAPA Auto Parts I used 2000 XJ for the vehicle. Great, the website says it should be ready to pickup in 30 min. Hopefully it is not fibbing... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Friday at 02:03 PM Author Share Posted Friday at 02:03 PM On 12/19/2025 at 7:38 AM, AZJeff said: You should not have to dismount the compressor to R&R the water pump. Thanks good! For Future Ref, @AZJeff was right on, there was no need to remove the compressor at all, the Haynes manual was smokin something. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Friday at 02:05 PM Author Share Posted Friday at 02:05 PM 20 hours ago, derf said: Could be an idler pulley bearing. Those do go bad eventually. Well I have a new pump and a new idler pulley so I'll do both and I'll get it either way! Also putting in new t-stat and belt just because it's a good time to do it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
75sv1 Posted Friday at 02:09 PM Share Posted Friday at 02:09 PM The Fan "Pulley' also has a bearing in it. Its hard to find. I have ordered some from Gopher Supply in New Mexico. I forget the PN. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Friday at 02:12 PM Author Share Posted Friday at 02:12 PM OK I'll keep that in mind if the new parts I have don't take away all the squeak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted Friday at 02:45 PM Share Posted Friday at 02:45 PM 1 hour ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said: So should I expect to have to dismount the compressor? I didn't have to and I am not sure why your manual thinks that you would have to. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Friday at 03:48 PM Author Share Posted Friday at 03:48 PM Well Haynes is notorious about over disassembly... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Saturday at 01:41 PM Author Share Posted Saturday at 01:41 PM Well, day one was a failure! The Napa inlet pipe looked like it would work, it seemed to route well, but the rookie mistake was to also consider the ability to put the thermostat cover and the two hoses connected to that back. The inlet pipe blocked the access to do this . I was able to get the old inlet pipe out of the old pump with the assistance of a vise and a 12-in pipe wrench, but I could not get the new pipe out of the new pump without removing the pump, the gasket didn't survive the removal. I have a new gasket on the way that is supposed to get here in about an our, then I'll start attempt #2! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Saturday at 05:49 PM Author Share Posted Saturday at 05:49 PM Hmm, don't know what gremlin I had last night, but I was able to get the Napa pipe in today and everthing else back together. That;s the good news. The bad news is there's a leak at the thermostat. Do I have to let the RTV cure for some amount of time before starting up the truck? The new gasket doesn't look damaged, can I add more RTV and reassemble with a seal expected or do I need to put in a new gasket each time I try? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted Sunday at 12:31 AM Share Posted Sunday at 12:31 AM 6 hours ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said: Hmm, don't know what gremlin I had last night, but I was able to get the Napa pipe in today and everthing else back together. That;s the good news. The bad news is there's a leak at the thermostat. Do I have to let the RTV cure for some amount of time before starting up the truck? The new gasket doesn't look damaged, can I add more RTV and reassemble with a seal expected or do I need to put in a new gasket each time I try? If you can remove the gasket from the surface of the t’stat housing or the head, it might be able to be reused. However, it would be best to use a new one, given the fact they only cost a couple of bucks. I assume you used a sharp/smooth scraper to clean the gasket surface on the head to insure it is free of all old gasket and other crap. If necessary, use some emery cloth to make it nice and clean. The cast iron head won’t be hurt by hand sanding with 120 grit cloth. The thermostat housin, being aluminum, must be treated more carefully. I don’t recommend using any scrapers or other aggressive tools to clean that surface. A wire brush, or better yet, a wire wheel on a drill, will clean the surface quite nicely. When I do a t’stat, I coat both sides of the gasket with the appropriate RTV and then assemble it all together and wait a few hours for the RTV to set up before I fill the engine with coolant. I know some guys recommend to never use gasket sealer in conjunction with a conventional gasket, but a t’stat gasket is one place where I think it helps and does no harm. One other tip I learned the hard way doing the thermostat on my dads 1968 Ford when I was 17 years old: be sure that the flange on the actual thermostat sits into the counterbore in the cylinder head. If you don’t, then the gasket can’t seal properly, and when you tighten down the bolts, you can crack the housing flange by the bolt holes😡 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Sunday at 12:33 PM Author Share Posted Sunday at 12:33 PM I did use a scraper and wire brush on both surfaces but I didn't use much pressure just lots of strokes. The engine side does look better that the t'stat housing but they both seem pretty smooth. I am hoping that my failure was not waiting long enough before I added coolant fired up the engine, and also the surface might not have been completely dry on the engine side. On the redo I made sure to get both surfaces dry, and I finished up about 1pm Sat and it's been setting since then and I'll try again after a full 24 hours passes. Oh, and I did go ahead with a new gasket cause like you said thay are cheap. If it fails the second try I think I may go ahead and replace the t'stat housing, it's not expensive either. https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/NOE9023010 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted Sunday at 01:43 PM Share Posted Sunday at 01:43 PM RTV gasket sealer can compensate for “some” roughness on the gasket mating surfaces, but if the T’stat housing is really pitted, I would just get a new one. in fact, in my experience, I have yet to see a t’stat that is over 10 years of age that does wind up having some nasty corroded surfaces on either the gasket areas or the neck where the hoses clamp. That usually drives me to replace them under those conditions. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Sunday at 03:49 PM Author Share Posted Sunday at 03:49 PM Gotcha. I have a strong need to be done today, so I am really hoping for a success from the reinstall. I'm trying to follow the actual instructions on the RTV package (bad habit not to read this stuff) and as I reread it, I may have already failed. It says to install hand snug, then wait 1 hour then torque to spec then wait 24 hours. Well I read it yesterday as hand tight then wait 24 hours, then torque, I think this is worth a dammit! So at this point I'll just go ahead and torque and finish the 24 hours wait. My Haynes manual says the t'stat bolts torque to 13ft-lb, does that sound right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted Sunday at 04:15 PM Share Posted Sunday at 04:15 PM 19 minutes ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said: Gotcha. I have a strong need to be done today, so I am really hoping for a success from the reinstall. I'm trying to follow the actual instructions on the RTV package (bad habit not to read this stuff) and as I reread it, I may have already failed. It says to install hand snug, then wait 1 hour then torque to spec then wait 24 hours. Well I read it yesterday as hand tight then wait 24 hours, then torque, I think this is worth a dammit! So at this point I'll just go ahead and torque and finish the 24 hours wait. My Haynes manual says the t'stat bolts torque to 13ft-lb, does that sound right? That sounds about right, but to be honest, I never torque “non-critical” fasteners like that. I use my “calibrated wrist” acquired from 50+ years of wrenching on stuff. The t’stat bolts need to tight enough to keep the parts sealed, and to keep the bolts from loosening. Beyond that, there are no critical factors. Stuff like head bolts is another issue, so because the gasket must be compressed a certain amount to achieve a seal against the pressures and temperature of combustion. Likewise, lug nuts must be tight enough to create sufficient friction between the wheel surface and the brake rotor (or drum). THOSE types of fasteners I always torque. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Sunday at 04:42 PM Author Share Posted Sunday at 04:42 PM Yeah I almost never torque either, judgement has gotten me through to this point. Just figured this might be something to torque since I am having trouble getting a water tight seal. (And I guess because I picked up an on sale torque wrench not too long ago ) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
llhat Posted Sunday at 05:12 PM Share Posted Sunday at 05:12 PM I try to check the housing surface for 'flat'... usually take a sheet of emery paper and a known flat surface and lightly lap it 200 to 320 grit is 'ok' have even used a flat file lightly also... I can't recall, but if the housing bolts extend into the water passage, may need a touch of sealant... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Sunday at 08:01 PM Author Share Posted Sunday at 08:01 PM It's better today from a leak standpoint, I saw a few drop right at first that I could not 100% tell where they came from but after a few minutes they stopped, or blew away. Either way it doesn't see to be leaking now. I think this uncertainty may lead me to replace the tstat housing soon, but not today. The problem now is it squeaks like a blanche. I have tightened the belt about 1 turn at a time to look for improvement but I don't get any. The new pump and idle pulley seemed to spin just fine when I put them on, but I guess I can't rule them out. So the new question is now, if the squeal goes away for 20s or so if I squirt a little water on the belt, does that say the problem is the belt? I did not put a new belt on because the one already there looked good to me. Anyway, before I do that I'll still ask if the water test points to the belt, or does it not work good enough to say it does? Oh it is probably worth mentioning that yesterday when I tested the reassembly the first time and found the leak, there was no squeaking... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Sunday at 09:21 PM Author Share Posted Sunday at 09:21 PM I took the belt off and scrubbed it down from end to end with a toothbrush. Then cleaned all the pulleys. Found a little gunk on the one that I believe is the harmonic balancer. It wasn't much but maybe enough to squeak, but it was really not much, All the pulleys spun free by hand and made no noise as I cleaned them, except for the alternator, is had a very faint squeak, once per revolution. So I guess that's also a possibility, but I re-note it didn't squeak when I put it all back together yesterday. OK, things should be dry now, time to reassemble and see what happens.... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Sunday at 10:42 PM Author Share Posted Sunday at 10:42 PM Yay! A good cleaning of the belt and the pulleys, no more squeak! And at least for the moment no leaking either, so I'll monitor that for a bit to see what I see. Thanks to all that helped out! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted Sunday at 10:54 PM Author Share Posted Sunday at 10:54 PM Just for FYI and future reference, I did the job without removing the mechanical fan and it only got in the way a little. In hindsight I think the biggest trouble this caused was it being in the way for "easily" removing the electrical fan. BUT this is probably because of my "modified fan shroud", which was broken most of the way by some repair shop, so I broke it the rest of the way and converted the top piece to a shroud with removable top. So without this "feature" removing the fan/shroud for better access definitely would seem to be a good idea. At one point before I dove into this I considered taking it to a shop, and wanted to help them by letting them know which screws to remove and warn them the washers are not captive . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted Monday at 04:40 AM Share Posted Monday at 04:40 AM I have broken several fan shrouds on the 4.0 mechanical fan over the years, trying to wrestle them out with the fan still bolted to its pulley. Then I got smart: I studied where the shroud interferes with the viscous clutch hub and used a Dremel tool to grind a clearance cut in the lower parts of the shroud, and sanded the corners of the cut to prevent cracking from sharp corners. Now I can remove the shroud by taking out the two top bolts and carefully working the shroud up around the blades and past the clutch. It’s a snug fit, as I wanted to keep the shroud as functional as possible, but I have not broken one since I did this mod. (Something Jeep should have done to begin with🙄) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted 21 hours ago Author Share Posted 21 hours ago Good Modification! Yes, it would be nice if Jeep had made this mod for us all, and also formed the electric fan so it came out easily also, mine catches on the PS pulley. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted 21 hours ago Author Share Posted 21 hours ago Follow up question on the coolant level. With a cool engine and ambient temp 50-60, is this when the fluid should be setting at MIN? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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