robfg67 Posted October 1 Author Share Posted October 1 Got the pan out today. The tool that I bought was close to useless. I used a torch to soften the rtv and then pounded several stubby flat head screwdrivers in the gap and it pulled off fairly easily. Now, getting the old crusty rtv off is a bear. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 1 Share Posted October 1 I used the 5-way as a chisel, then moved to used the flat razors as a chisel for fine work, then finished up with sandpaper/scouringpad. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatslug87 Posted October 2 Share Posted October 2 That tool looks like it would be a good scraper, not separator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robfg67 Posted October 9 Author Share Posted October 9 I completed this job on Sunday afternoon. What a bear of a job-from start to finish. I did this job before about 15 years ago and I didn't remember it being so difficult, but it is what it is. I only have 33k original miles on the truck, but both ends of the RMS gasket were hard as a brick. So 34 years and probably some significant periods of sitting did them in. I warmed the engine up in the driveway, drove it for about 4 miles (back roads) and then drove it again Monday night and no leaks, so I think it was a successful outcome. Thanks to all who chimed in here with help/advise. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 9 Share Posted October 9 victory!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted November 10 Share Posted November 10 I am considering this job, but I am far from an expert. I've have swapped out Alternator, Starter, Radiator, Brakes and one fender, but this seems a level harder than any of those. I'll start by tacking on here for some "just a bit past rookie" clarifications. @robfg67 "pull the front wheels and jack up the MJ by the frame to let the suspension to droop to get the pan out?". @watchamakalit "Full droop of the front axle is required for pan removal." I don't suppose you have any pictures but if you do that would be a great addition to the thread to better understand this droop and where you jacked things up to get it. If not perhaps some additional words? I am envisioning two sets of jack stands but don't have any real info to back that guess on. @Pete M, what is this "5-way"? Thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted November 10 Share Posted November 10 26 minutes ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said: @robfg67 "pull the front wheels and jack up the MJ by the frame to let the suspension to droop to get the pan out?". @watchamakalit "Full droop of the front axle is required for pan removal." I don't suppose you have any pictures but if you do that would be a great addition to the thread to better understand this droop and where you jacked things up to get it. If not perhaps some additional words? I am envisioning two sets of jack stands but don't have any real info to back that guess on. You need to make sure that the front suspension has no weight on it. So you would jack the truck up, then put jack stands under the frame rails so the wheels are off of the ground, but there is also no weight on the suspension. This will give you enough room to get the pan off and clear the axle with it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fiatslug87 Posted November 10 Share Posted November 10 5 way, 5 in 1 paint tool I believe. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted November 10 Share Posted November 10 55 minutes ago, 89 MJ said: You need to make sure that the front suspension has no weight on it. So you would jack the truck up, then put jack stands under the frame rails so the wheels are off of the ground, but there is also no weight on the suspension. This will give you enough room to get the pan off and clear the axle with it. Ah Ok, so not on ramps! Thanks for that clarification. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted November 10 Share Posted November 10 32 minutes ago, fiatslug87 said: 5 way, 5 in 1 paint tool I believe. Gotcha! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 11 Share Posted November 11 7 hours ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said: Gotcha! Thanks buy a quality one, but not a crazy 8 or 10-way one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted November 11 Share Posted November 11 7 hours ago, Pete M said: buy a quality one, but not a crazy 8 or 10-way one. Check, I'll restrain myself! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AnotherOldJeepGuy Posted November 13 Share Posted November 13 On 9/8/2024 at 1:52 PM, derf said: It's not a bad idea to loosen the main caps. That lets the crank drop just a hair and gives you a little more wiggle room. Be sure to have a good torque wrench and torque them to spec after. And then double check them. OEM recommends soap as lube but petroleum jelly probably is good too. And yes, have a couple because you may shave some seal off putting it in if you're not careful. Those machined faces are a little sharp. Ask me how I know. More rookie, OK seasoned rookie at least but I still have not purchased a lingo dictionary. Sooo, what/where are "main caps"? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted November 13 Share Posted November 13 1 hour ago, AnotherOldJeepGuy said: More rookie, OK seasoned rookie at least but I still have not purchased a lingo dictionary. Sooo, what/where are "main caps"? They are the caps that hold the crankshaft into the block Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 14 Share Posted November 14 the big chunks of steel underneath that have 2 big bolts each, one on either side of the crank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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