I_s2k Posted January 24 Author Share Posted January 24 Would you guy's have any recommendations on draining the tank? I was planning on just cycling the key to on when I go replace the filter and letting it drain out that way. Also I would like to mention that when cold, it takes forever to start. Cranks just fine but takes forever, when warmed up it starts right up and starts every time regardless of temp. In past experience on my XJ's its always been the CPS, any thoughts for the 2.5? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandBoost98 Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 10 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said: With V-belt?! I think we need to look at the date code on that block. I stand corrected. I went through old pics to verify and it was indeed a serpentine belt. I was confusing it with my 89 2.5L YJ that has v belts. Gets confusing having so many lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandBoost98 Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 1 minute ago, I_s2k said: Would you guy's have any recommendations on draining the tank? I was planning on just cycling the key to on when I go replace the filter and letting it drain out that way. Also I would like to mention that when cold, it takes forever to start. Cranks just fine but takes forever, when warmed up it starts right up and starts every time regardless of temp. In past experience on my XJ's its always been the CPS, any thoughts for the 2.5? I used one of those cheap transfer pumps from harbor freight to drain the tank. Cruisers site has info on testing and modifying the CPS. Could also be a weak fuel pump or dirty filter Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I_s2k Posted January 24 Author Share Posted January 24 1 minute ago, GrandBoost98 said: I used one of those cheap transfer pumps from harbor freight to drain the tank. Cruisers site has info on testing and modifying the CPS. Could also be a weak fuel pump or dirty filter I have one of those same pumps and it constantly gives me a hard time haha. But that was my other thought. And okay thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GrandBoost98 Posted January 24 Share Posted January 24 Those cheap pumps don't like gas or brake fluid too much lol I usually try to squirt some oil in after pumping either of those. But theyre cheap enough to be disposable, I go through a couple a year Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I_s2k Posted January 24 Author Share Posted January 24 5 minutes ago, GrandBoost98 said: Those cheap pumps don't like gas or brake fluid too much lol I usually try to squirt some oil in after pumping either of those. But theyre cheap enough to be disposable, I go through a couple a year Haha I feel you there. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 It would probably pay to go through and delete all the wire nuts. At the very least replace them with a solid crimp splice. I’ll second the ignition parts if you haven’t done them already. I’m not familiar with the TBI setup, but my ‘91 2.5 MPFI also has long crank times when cold. It helps a little if I cycle the key a few times to prime the fuel pump, but only a little. It starts alright if it’s warm, however. I’ve never really got to the bottom of it because it does always start… eventually. Its very possible you cure your starting issue when you solve your misfire. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 25 Share Posted January 25 You must do the connector refreshing, firewall ground and C101 cleaning before replacing any parts except the obvious tune-up components. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I_s2k Posted January 26 Author Share Posted January 26 On 1/24/2024 at 5:26 PM, gogmorgo said: It would probably pay to go through and delete all the wire nuts. At the very least replace them with a solid crimp splice. I’ll second the ignition parts if you haven’t done them already. I’m not familiar with the TBI setup, but my ‘91 2.5 MPFI also has long crank times when cold. It helps a little if I cycle the key a few times to prime the fuel pump, but only a little. It starts alright if it’s warm, however. I’ve never really got to the bottom of it because it does always start… eventually. Its very possible you cure your starting issue when you solve your misfire. Word and yea it’s very possible, it’s just odd that the misfire and starting issue are intermittent but the wiring is a disaster all over the Jeep, under hood isn’t too bad. Most of the wire nuts look like they’re attached to the hidden winch which I plan to ditch since I don’t have a controller for nor do I have any idea how the PO set it up. But there are a few under the dash :/ On 1/24/2024 at 6:59 PM, cruiser54 said: You must do the connector refreshing, firewall ground and C101 cleaning before replacing any parts except the obvious tune-up components. That’s my plan for the weekend, I accidentally ordered 16 spark plugs instead of 4, the listing had it as Count: 1 pack of 1 so I ordered 4 and got 16, paid roughly $20 for all 16😂 fuel filter, cap and rotor should be here today. I had a chance to quickly once over everything again and found out why nothing on the interior works, would probably help if I had a few fuses haha. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I_s2k Posted January 26 Author Share Posted January 26 1 minute ago, cruiser54 said: Thanks! I was looking at this same post from you on another thread! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 26 Share Posted January 26 Just keep on truckin' at this. It will come together. Avoid the Parts Cannon!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I_s2k Posted January 30 Author Share Posted January 30 Alrighty, so on a side note I finally got my F350 back from paint after 6 months! Wooooo. But finally had a chance to mess with the Comanche. Replaced plugs, cap, rotor, wires looked good, fuel filter, drained some of the bad gas out and put about 5 gallons and success!! The Jeep will officially move under its own power. Got all the fuses replaced other than the turn signal flasher and undid all the botched wiring. Luckily all of the wire nuts and $#!& wiring was for the radio and speakers. So now it moves under its own power just doing those things, but…..it still misses pretty good on startup and will miss and sputter when trying to drive off and on but it is a significant improvement from what it was. Any ideas? I ran out of daylight to start cleaning connections and grounds. I’m unfamiliar with the TBI setup on the 2.5 and I’m wonder if there’s any kind of sensor or anything I can clean in there? Unfortunately the Comanche had some unwelcome guests in the intake so I had to hand out an eviction but they didn’t get to any wiring thankfully. They did chew through the vacuum hose that runs through the bottom of the Airbox, what is that for? lol Does anybody have any ideas as to why my parking lights come on when I hit the brakes! It’s just the parking lights, not the signals on the side and doesn’t matter if the headlights are on/off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 All vacuum lines, intake bolts, sensor connections, ground points must be dealt with before even considering replacement parts. Keep in mind you likely still have some rather $#!&ty gas in the Jeep. As for the lights, that is covered in my ground refreshing Tip. So, Tips 1 through 5 must be COMPLETED before anything else. Intake manifold bolts and hoses must be inspected carefully. The hose to the MAP sensor has to be perfect!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I_s2k Posted January 30 Author Share Posted January 30 15 minutes ago, cruiser54 said: All vacuum lines, intake bolts, sensor connections, ground points must be dealt with before even considering replacement parts. Keep in mind you likely still have some rather $#!&ty gas in the Jeep. As for the lights, that is covered in my ground refreshing Tip. So, Tips 1 through 5 must be COMPLETED before anything else. Intake manifold bolts and hoses must be inspected carefully. The hose to the MAP sensor has to be perfect!! Okay, hopefully I can tackle that this week sometime, it’s nice working 4 10’s but not getting home till 6 blows haha. So that hose that runs through the bottom of the intake box up to the throttle is the MAP sensor? I did check and make sure that manifold/header were tight to the block. I also wanted to ask, your guide says 87+ for certain things, does this pertain to 86 as well? I can’t imagine there would be that many changes. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 When you depress the brake pedal, do the turn indicators in the instrument cluster also come on? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I_s2k Posted January 30 Author Share Posted January 30 11 minutes ago, Ωhm said: When you depress the brake pedal, do the turn indicators in the instrument cluster also come on? Nope, for all I know the lights on the cluster probably don’t work haha. But it currently does not have the flasher relay in it. That’s the last piece to my fuse box Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 I have a DIY on TBI ISA adjustment. Should help with your start up being a hit or miss. The ISA after the engine is off is supposed to extend and be ready for the next start up. If it isnt doing that or the PO messed with the adjustment screw on that ISA, the start ups will be a hit or miss. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I_s2k Posted January 30 Author Share Posted January 30 5 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said: I have a DIY on TBI ISA adjustment. Should help with your start up being a hit or miss. The ISA after the engine is off is supposed to extend and be ready for the next start up. If it isnt doing that or the PO messed with the adjustment screw on that ISA, the start ups will be a hit or miss. Pardon my new-ness but what is ISA? And do you have the link for this DIY? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 Idle Speed Actuator. Its at the front of the throttle body close to the valve cover when looking at the intake from the front of the MJ. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I_s2k Posted January 30 Author Share Posted January 30 2 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said: Idle Speed Actuator. Its at the front of the throttle body close to the valve cover when looking at the intake from the front of the MJ. Awesome, okay thank you! Like stated above, hopefully I can get to this this week. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 No problem! This should almost always be a must for any new 2.5L owner. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted January 30 Share Posted January 30 42 minutes ago, I_s2k said: Nope, for all I know the lights on the cluster probably don’t work haha. But it currently does not have the flasher relay in it. That’s the last piece to my fuse box If you're missing the HAZARD flasher, make sure the HAZARD flasher switch is in the OFF position. Recheck your lights. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
I_s2k Posted February 4 Author Share Posted February 4 Alrighty guys so I’ve spent most of the day cleaning connections and checking grounds. I’ve unplugged probably every relay, ground, and wire connection and cleaned with CRC and numerous brass/steel brushes. Still no dice on the random misfire and bog. Still starts up everytime and I tried to drive it around a bit after putting more fresh gas in it and it does pretty good going 1st through 2nd but in 3rd if you give it anything more than 1/4 throttle it just starts to stumble and misfire and even small backfires if you keep your foot in it haha. On 1/29/2024 at 7:21 PM, Ωhm said: If you're missing the HAZARD flasher, make sure the HAZARD flasher switch is in the OFF position. Recheck your lights. I added a new relay and cleaned the other existing one and still does the same thing with the switch being in the off position. I’m thinking the wiring is screwed in the rear causing that issue but who needs turn signals always. I’ll fix that eventually. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted February 5 Share Posted February 5 What do the spark plugs look like? Have you replaced them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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