70barracuda Posted April 15, 2023 Share Posted April 15, 2023 So my 3 year old windshield started leaking in the upper corners. My lifetime leak warranty would come in handy if the place I got it done at didn't close up shop (starting to makes sense why mine is leaking...) Anyway, I called around to a bunch of places and was quoted around $400, and that they can only find 1 windshield in the entire area. One shop flat out refused to do it because it was "so old and a classic and his guys wouldn't know how to do it". Seems wild to me. I'd like to keep it the original because I love the chrome molding. Just is crazy to me. It's they key issue all over again where no one could cut an old key. Are these trucks just getting to the point where I need to find a legit classic car shop? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 16, 2023 Share Posted April 16, 2023 order 97+ Cherokee glass. same exact stuff, but far more plentiful for... some reason. if you want, you can let them install the rubber trim with it instead of reusing your metal trim. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 16, 2023 Share Posted April 16, 2023 side note, you may (or may not) need to nip off the metal tabs if you go with the rubber trim. some guys found they interfered with the rubber, most did not. my best guess is some sort of inconsistency with different manufacturers of the trim? dunno. I'm in the middle of this swap and since we found a bit of surface rust under the glass and the whole process stopped for me to deal with it anyways, I nipped them off just to be on the safe side. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70barracuda Posted April 16, 2023 Author Share Posted April 16, 2023 I really want to keep the metal trim. Can it be done with the 97+ glass? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 16, 2023 Share Posted April 16, 2023 yes. the glass is the same. just need to tell the guy to skip the rubber when he goes to install it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted April 16, 2023 Share Posted April 16, 2023 Why not just pop off the stainless trim, re-seal the glass, and reinstall the trim? If it doesn't work, you can always have the windshield replaced later. If it does work, you saved $390 ($400 less the price of a tube of RTV). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70barracuda Posted April 16, 2023 Author Share Posted April 16, 2023 27 minutes ago, Eagle said: Why not just pop off the stainless trim, re-seal the glass, and reinstall the trim? If it doesn't work, you can always have the windshield replaced later. If it does work, you saved $390 ($400 less the price of a tube of RTV). I tried that before on the old windshield and it didn't work. I guess I could give it a shot this time. But Ive read RTV isn't good for paint as it will eat away at it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 16, 2023 Share Posted April 16, 2023 if you get it replaced, make dang sure that the gluing surface on the truck is in perfect condition. if the last guy was in a hurry, he may have tried bonding to a flawed surface. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70barracuda Posted April 16, 2023 Author Share Posted April 16, 2023 34 minutes ago, Pete M said: if you get it replaced, make dang sure that the gluing surface on the truck is in perfect condition. if the last guy was in a hurry, he may have tried bonding to a flawed surface. I think the surface was okay. I do remember it being blistering cold that morning because I wanted to reschedule but they assured me it was fine. Maybe it didn't adhere fully? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 16, 2023 Share Posted April 16, 2023 definitely a maybe on that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Strokermjcomanche Posted April 16, 2023 Share Posted April 16, 2023 I would check and see if your insurance would cover it.My insurance company will replace the glass for free as I have comprehensive. Especially if it’s got chips\Nicks In your line of sight they typically don’t repair those. I would also advise you To get the molding clips ahead of time as most glass shops don’t have them in stock. The clips (especially if they’re brittle ) will break easily. The clips are only around 20 bucks if you shop around, sometimes cheaper. If i recall correctly you need 17 of them Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 16, 2023 Share Posted April 16, 2023 a handful of mine survived if you need some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70barracuda Posted April 16, 2023 Author Share Posted April 16, 2023 I bought 2 packs originally when I got the windshield replaced before. I was shocked to find them available new. I feel like if there was even some rust in the channel the first window guys would definitely have said something so I feel like I should be okay. I hope anyway. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 16, 2023 Share Posted April 16, 2023 the fact that it failed after such a short amount of time wouldn't fill me with hope of any kind. he clearly did something wrong. mine had the slightest surface rust in a few spots, but the installer refused to go further until I address it. rear window had the same thing going on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted April 17, 2023 Share Posted April 17, 2023 Keep in mind that there are body seams in all 4 corners of the windshield frame. I’ve come to suspect every single body seam on these trucks as a possible leak point. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70barracuda Posted April 25, 2023 Author Share Posted April 25, 2023 Finally got to taking the trim off and checking it out. There's no visible rust anywhere. Obviously can't see under the urethane but it seems pretty rust free. I was debating using seam sealer but don't want to fix this with a hack. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 26, 2023 Share Posted April 26, 2023 mine wasn't visible until we pulled the windshield. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70barracuda Posted April 27, 2023 Author Share Posted April 27, 2023 So I found a Windshield guy that is coming out to remove the glass for me and I'm going to take care of whatever lies underneath, then he'll come back and install a new one. What's the best method for cleaning the channel up and also what type of paint should be used. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted April 28, 2023 Share Posted April 28, 2023 13 hours ago, 70barracuda said: So I found a Windshield guy that is coming out to remove the glass for me and I'm going to take care of whatever lies underneath, then he'll come back and install a new one. What's the best method for cleaning the channel up and also what type of paint should be used. The TDS for most window urethanes indicates there should be no paint in the jamb. Only fully cured 2 part epoxy primer (note that even the factory ignored this). On my build I primed then seam sealed the corners and primed again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70barracuda Posted May 2, 2023 Author Share Posted May 2, 2023 Welp definitely some problem areas. Gotta address this. The glass guy also said that the other installer had left alot of the butyl strip in the channel too. Wire wheel best method for cleaning? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted May 2, 2023 Share Posted May 2, 2023 18 minutes ago, 70barracuda said: Welp definitely some problem areas. Gotta address this. The glass guy also said that the other installer had left alot of the butyl strip in the channel too. Wire wheel best method for cleaning? I used one of those oscillating tools with a fine metal blade. It works excellent and save a lot of time removing all the old urethane. Also cleans up the rust very nicely. I would suggest some POR15 followed by some good medium bodied 2 part seam sealer in those corner seams. The medium bodied stuff should flow into the seams a bit. When it’s all done, mask off surrounding areas and shoot it with 2 part Roxy primer and let that cure before installing the windshield Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70barracuda Posted May 2, 2023 Author Share Posted May 2, 2023 I got some por15 that's specific for windshield channels so that also has seam sealer in it. Then I'm going to get this paint. Should work right? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted May 2, 2023 Share Posted May 2, 2023 2 minutes ago, 70barracuda said: I got some por15 that's specific for windshield channels so that also has seam sealer in it. Then I'm going to get this paint. Should work right? Yep that should work. Just give that aersosol 2 part epoxy some heat to cure if you can. Once it dries to the touch and is no longer soft, hit it with a heat gun, heat lamp or just leave it in the sun for several hours. I’ve noticed the aerosol 2k primers take longer to cure as hard as the ones you mix and shoot in a gun. If you can, I’d even give it a few days to cure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted May 2, 2023 Share Posted May 2, 2023 Forgot to mention, but make sure you have a small unobstructed and sealed “channel” in each lower corner of the windshield frame that will allow water to drain out down through the cowl to fender seam. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
70barracuda Posted May 2, 2023 Author Share Posted May 2, 2023 Thanks for the tips. Unfortunately having no garage means this is gonna suck for painting. It's been 40s at night and 50s during the day with nonstop rain so I'm hoping it clears up. Want to get this done asap, but also want to do a really good job. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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