Leak question

[Whitaker717]

Hi guys I have been chasing down this leak for over a year. It’s just a slow drip but I can’t get it to stop. Neither can the dealership apparently. So far I have replaced the rear main seal, oil filter adapter plug, head gasket, valve cover gasket, new oil filler cap, crankcase vent tube grommet in the rear. It looks like it is leaking by rear main still and the starter bolt. I will attach a couple pictures but I have no idea where to go next. Quite frankly I am tired of chasing this leak. Any suggestions would be great. 

[gogmorgo]

Havd you popped the inspection cover off and had a look inside the bellhousing to see if it’s coming from something other than the engine? Definitely looks rear main-ish, it’s possible the new seal also leaks… but it’s pretty tough to say without being there to watch it leak. 

[Whitaker717]

That’s the one thing I haven’t done is pop it off. Once I cleaned it all off at first it looked like it was coming from around where the starter was at. All be darned if I can tell though. 

[Whitaker717]

The dealership fixed it so I am assuming so. It looks dry around it though. 

[Whitaker717]

It’s not leaking anywhere around it. That’s dry now. So is the head gasket area. I even cleaned off the valve cover. No leaks around it anywhere either. I’m stumped. 

[Pete M]

it took me multiple attempts to get the RMS/oil pan gasket leak free. 

[cruiser54]

Make sure the rearmost valve cover bolts are tight enough. 

[Whitaker717]

On 11/8/2022 at 6:03 AM, cruiser54 said:

Make sure the rearmost valve cover bolts are tight enough. 

What is the torque spec Cruiser?

[cruiser54]

I have no clue. You couldn't get a torque wrench in there anyway.

 

Let's just call it "wrist tight". 

[Whitaker717]

1 hour ago, cruiser54 said:

I have no clue. You couldn't get a torque wrench in there anyway.

 

Let's just call it "wrist tight". 

Will do. I will give it a try

[AZJeff]

13 hours ago, cruiser54 said:

I have no clue. You couldn't get a torque wrench in there anyway.

 

Let's just call it "wrist tight". 

Cruiser is correct.   It's damned near impossible to reach the bolts with a normal sized torque wrench.   In addition, the torque level, if you really want to measure it, is in INCH-POUNDS.   Most DIY guys don't have inch-lb. torque wrenches.

 

After working on cars for 50+ years, I have a highly calibrated wrist just like Cruiser has, and that works fine for things like valve covers and oil pans.

[cruiser54]

I'll bet your forearm torque rating and your shoulder torque rating are like mine also. Never failed me in over 50 years.