Whitaker717 Posted November 5, 2022 Share Posted November 5, 2022 Hi guys I have been chasing down this leak for over a year. It’s just a slow drip but I can’t get it to stop. Neither can the dealership apparently. So far I have replaced the rear main seal, oil filter adapter plug, head gasket, valve cover gasket, new oil filler cap, crankcase vent tube grommet in the rear. It looks like it is leaking by rear main still and the starter bolt. I will attach a couple pictures but I have no idea where to go next. Quite frankly I am tired of chasing this leak. Any suggestions would be great. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted November 6, 2022 Share Posted November 6, 2022 Havd you popped the inspection cover off and had a look inside the bellhousing to see if it’s coming from something other than the engine? Definitely looks rear main-ish, it’s possible the new seal also leaks… but it’s pretty tough to say without being there to watch it leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitaker717 Posted November 6, 2022 Author Share Posted November 6, 2022 That’s the one thing I haven’t done is pop it off. Once I cleaned it all off at first it looked like it was coming from around where the starter was at. All be darned if I can tell though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitaker717 Posted November 6, 2022 Author Share Posted November 6, 2022 The dealership fixed it so I am assuming so. It looks dry around it though. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitaker717 Posted November 7, 2022 Author Share Posted November 7, 2022 It’s not leaking anywhere around it. That’s dry now. So is the head gasket area. I even cleaned off the valve cover. No leaks around it anywhere either. I’m stumped. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 7, 2022 Share Posted November 7, 2022 it took me multiple attempts to get the RMS/oil pan gasket leak free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 8, 2022 Share Posted November 8, 2022 Make sure the rearmost valve cover bolts are tight enough. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitaker717 Posted November 10, 2022 Author Share Posted November 10, 2022 On 11/8/2022 at 6:03 AM, cruiser54 said: Make sure the rearmost valve cover bolts are tight enough. What is the torque spec Cruiser? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 10, 2022 Share Posted November 10, 2022 I have no clue. You couldn't get a torque wrench in there anyway. Let's just call it "wrist tight". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Whitaker717 Posted November 10, 2022 Author Share Posted November 10, 2022 1 hour ago, cruiser54 said: I have no clue. You couldn't get a torque wrench in there anyway. Let's just call it "wrist tight". Will do. I will give it a try Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted November 10, 2022 Share Posted November 10, 2022 13 hours ago, cruiser54 said: I have no clue. You couldn't get a torque wrench in there anyway. Let's just call it "wrist tight". Cruiser is correct. It's damned near impossible to reach the bolts with a normal sized torque wrench. In addition, the torque level, if you really want to measure it, is in INCH-POUNDS. Most DIY guys don't have inch-lb. torque wrenches. After working on cars for 50+ years, I have a highly calibrated wrist just like Cruiser has, and that works fine for things like valve covers and oil pans. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 10, 2022 Share Posted November 10, 2022 I'll bet your forearm torque rating and your shoulder torque rating are like mine also. Never failed me in over 50 years. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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