gogmorgo Posted October 25, 2022 Share Posted October 25, 2022 Obviously new clamp on obviously new hose that were both replaced recently replaced per the first post in this threads tells me to go find a screwdriver and snug up the clamp. I’ve had a few water pumps start leaking recently and none of them were barely noticeable. I’m not saying it’s not possible for the water pump to be leaking, but when a connection has recently been messed with, it’s pretty foolish to start telling people to take on a large project if they haven’t confirmed where the leak is coming from or taken the 30 seconds to confirm the connection is good. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classy Comanche Posted October 25, 2022 Author Share Posted October 25, 2022 Yeah so this is my coolant set up. So I bought a Mac tank, had it installed and had a plastic catch tank installed with it. The clear hose run through the frame and downwards for it to puke out onto the ground for if whatever reason it gets that full. However that metal tank is full. Completely. When the coolant expands and warms up it gets spit back into plastic catch tank then sucked back up into the tank. At this given moment and time I'm not pulling or tugging on anything just because I have made an appointment to have it checked out, need an oil change anyway. So I'm going for a change and have this like officially checked out before I go and have the pump pulled. It could be the pump or the hose, or both. It's hard to really diagnose due to having a plate underneath it. I got like 3 holes I can look into. But I can definitely confirm it is not overheating. But yeah without getting a good look it's hard to diagnose. Plus the guy that has been working on it knows everything is OEM. So I do unfortunately think it is the pump from your guys opinions and thoughts. But he'll be able to really get in there and do a thorough check, and I'll purchase what's needed if anything is needed. I'm still crossing my fingers it's just the lose fastener/clamp. But I'll definitely keep this thread up to date as it's diagnosed and fixed Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classy Comanche Posted October 27, 2022 Author Share Posted October 27, 2022 Hey guys. So update on this. Haven't ran my truck since Monday. And that was to move it like 15 ft. Have not driven it since. However coolant seems to still be oozing from the hose where I showed last time and the plate that covers the underside of the engine seems to be holding coolant from where it was lost from...sitting? But the Mac aluminum tank is completely full. When I popped open the rad cap some spilled on the tank. But I just wanted to update on that. See if that changes any thoughts on the pump and whatnot Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted October 28, 2022 Share Posted October 28, 2022 Pressurize the system and diagnose the leak. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted October 29, 2022 Share Posted October 29, 2022 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted October 29, 2022 Share Posted October 29, 2022 Yup. Then the coolant loss would no longer be "unexplained". Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classy Comanche Posted November 13, 2022 Author Share Posted November 13, 2022 Hey guys been trying to get back ASAP. So the coolant issue has been diagnosed and fixed. Water pump was good. Bearings felt good. However the lower radiator hose as we saw previously was leaking. Come to find out that new hose softend up and needed to be tightened a bit more. But what about the coolant I mentioned that was puddled up on the rubber guard below the engine? Ah that was a fun one to hear about. The radiator has a porous hole that was leaking it out causing it to puddle up. So, I filed a return, bought me a new radiator and am waiting for the stickers to arrive from rockauto.com However I am thinking of keeping the radiator just because a family member knows how to TIG weld. I may have him reweld it so I have a nice aluminum radiator back up. But I figured I'd disclose this just in case someone else may run into the same issue. Also the mechanic also stated that when the engine would warm up it made a loud whistle sound. And told me about it. We both do some research and he finds out its the intake manifold loose bolts. Going from manifold fo cylinder head surface. So now when I drive it and put it in park it idles down EVEN more, which was the norm when I bought it in 2020. Anyways this is the disclosure. Keep on jeepin' fellas Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted November 13, 2022 Share Posted November 13, 2022 Put the new radiator in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classy Comanche Posted November 13, 2022 Author Share Posted November 13, 2022 Oh it is in, I was just saying that was the issue. That's what took so long, waiting got the radiator delivery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classy Comanche Posted February 13, 2023 Author Share Posted February 13, 2023 Sigh back on this thread again. These rockauto radiators are making me just about sick. Once again has another porous hole near the top of the rad hose. It runs down the fins as it's lime green contrasting again a very shiny silver. Can someone please point me somewhere that isn't rockauto that has good radiators that won't leak because they're cheap Chinese crap. This is my 2nd aluminum one from them and this is outrageous. If anyone has a place they ordered one from and had no issues with and performs as a radiator should. Please do let me know. I'm considering giving the "heavy duty" radiator a shot off rockauto before throwing in the towel. I really hope I would've had this issue fixed. But here we are. I'll snap pictures tomorrow morning when I drive. Seems the radiator they're selling on rockauto "fits" but won't function as it should I.E radiator leaking at the corner where the fins meet the siding of the radiator. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted February 13, 2023 Share Posted February 13, 2023 Got a Napa nearby? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classy Comanche Posted February 13, 2023 Author Share Posted February 13, 2023 As a matter fact I do! Do they have good radiators? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Airborne Janitor Posted February 13, 2023 Share Posted February 13, 2023 Mishimoto 3 core aluminum radiators are tough to beat, but they're like $450+. I've scored a couple off ebay that were open box and paid half price with no issues. Otherwise try these guys: https://ffdynamics.com/products/ols/products/cherrad Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cruiser54 Posted February 13, 2023 Share Posted February 13, 2023 I've used the Napa radiators for years with no issues. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classy Comanche Posted February 13, 2023 Author Share Posted February 13, 2023 Thank yall. I'm definitely giving those radiators a chance. Though I got to thinking. Would electrosis....or however you say it be a cause? It's like where the radiator isn't grounded and has a stray current moving throughout it making it corrode? The only thing is is that it's coming from one spot it's not coming from multiple like it's eaten away in multiple areas. I know my coolant isn't acidic because my Mac tank isn't leaking. So it leads to me to absolute crap build quality or somehow someway I got electrosis or however you spell it surging throughout the coolant Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classy Comanche Posted February 13, 2023 Author Share Posted February 13, 2023 Went to nappa. They are sourcing a CSM radiator for me. I hope 3rd time is the charm. The 2 other radiators I kept buying were the "premium" all aluminum ones. It's the one that was last on the list. The nappa guy said he could only find 2 and I would give me a call today. When I get home I'll provide areas where it's leaking from. It's not very significant now. But that insignificance turns into a overheated blown engine. So I'll pick it up and have it put in when I can ASAP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted February 13, 2023 Share Posted February 13, 2023 If you’re paying someone else to do the work you might as well pay them to source the parts and do diagnostics. Then it becomes their problem when the part fails. Radiator is easy to replace on your own. If you want to learn you have to do your own work. If you’re not doing the work you’re just guessing, and no mechanic is going to want you telling them how to do their job, so either they’re ignoring anything you’re saying or just doing exactly as you say and no more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classy Comanche Posted February 13, 2023 Author Share Posted February 13, 2023 Oh yeah for sure I understand. It's a member on the forum here that works at a Chevy dealership that has been working on my truck. The radiator is the one thing that has been constantly going bad. He's done everything from my starter to much much more including doing the closed to open cooling conversion on my truck and told me where to get a aluminum tank. My hoses and all are good and when I pick my Monte Carlo up I'll drop my truck off. All I want done is to have him verify the radiator is indeed leaking like has a tiny pinhole and check for any stray volts. I also request a test drive and to verify it's all set. And the radiator I have now did fine until recently. So I hope this CSM radiator being sourced is the missing peice of the puzzle. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classy Comanche Posted February 13, 2023 Author Share Posted February 13, 2023 Just left Nappa with the new radiator. I got home and unboxed it to have a look. It has two perfect cuts on it. Goes all the way through. What in the world are the chances!? I called them back and told them and they said they ordered the 2nd one. They said they really want to see these cuts. My luck with radiators are absolutely atrocious Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted February 14, 2023 Share Posted February 14, 2023 I recently put a rad. in my 2014JK, and got it from Rock Auto. I chose a CSF with the OEM style plastic tanks and aluminum core. That radiator was made in Thailand, or at least that is what it said on the box. I have used CSF radiators in the past with no issue on my MJ and XJ. I think those were made in the Phillipines. We shall see how a made in Thailand radiator holds up. I was defect free out of the box. From my experience in sourcing parts in Asia before I retired, the Philippines and Thailand are several steps above China in quality and business ethics. (The Chinese will slip something over on a customer in a heartbeat if they think they can get away with it.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted February 14, 2023 Share Posted February 14, 2023 That part doesn’t carry coolant, just holds it to the frame. Totally normal to see that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted February 14, 2023 Share Posted February 14, 2023 yup, that's just part of the structure. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classy Comanche Posted February 14, 2023 Author Share Posted February 14, 2023 Wait a minute. It doesn't circulate coolant? It's just the frame? I have always thought for years it goes in through rhe very top and goes ams down the radiator and eventually reach the bottom then circulate and repeat. This one says it is made in China. The fins in some areas are laid over. So I'll go check the other one out tomorrow morning and see what it looks like then if this one fails somehow some way I'll purchase the all black CSF or CSM radiator off rockauto that is all black with like a checkard flag on it. I never knew the cuts on the top and bottom were normal? I'm sitting here thinking coolant will leak out of them holes. Either tank is on the left and right side of the radiator. How exactly does the coolant pass through? I know it goes through the fins the thing that is getting me is if I flip the radiator over some of the fins at the bottom are pulled outwards like jutting out a bit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted February 14, 2023 Share Posted February 14, 2023 the yellow things are tubes. the fins simply conduct heat away from the tubes. the fins don't have to be all perfect. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Classy Comanche Posted February 14, 2023 Author Share Posted February 14, 2023 Well dang you learn something new everyday! For years and I do mean years I have always thought radiators did the- I called it the rain effect where coolant comes in through the top of the radiator and trickles down like rain then gets to the bottom then it circulates. I legitimately never knew the the lines between the fins were the tubes. I thought those were parts of the radiator being reinforced. Now that makes total sense and sheds light furthermore! I'll definitely keep yall updated on this issue I have going on. I'll check out that radiator they ordered and give it a try, then if all else fails I'll go for the CSM one off rockauto that is all black and the mishimoto rad last but not least. I'll keep yall posted on how things go! Goes to show things definitely aren't made like they used to be. This'll be my 3rd radiator I put in in the last 6 months or so Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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