Jump to content

Insane Vibrations at Idle - Really bad above 2K


Recommended Posts

For about the last month (since the trip to Yellowstone) I've just had crazy vibrations when idling. They smooth out with gas, but when the engine get's above 2K it get's REALLY weird and loud. I can replicate the 2K issue while stationary so I know there are no DS or TC issues. When I get the the entrance of the neighborhood and depress the clutch (I'm only 2nd house) it just about stalls and then breathes new life.

I replaced a broken motor mount because I thought that was the vibration issue, but nothing changed. Then I thought misfire so I pulled the plugs on Sunday and there isn't any fuel on them and they mostly look like they're all burning properly. Although some a bit different than the rest (1 & 2 have a bit more carbon and 4 & 5 have less burn it appears).

 

On top of that, the bell housing likes to make a ruckus after it's warmed up. New clutch about 1-2k miles ago. Didn't touch flywheel except for a slight surface smoothing. But it was fine after.

 

Wondering if there is something I'm missing in diagnosis before thinking I need to swap motors or CS.

 

What I've done:

Removed & cleaned the IAC as well as Seafoamed the intake

Inspected the MAP line and all looks good. Actually, I've replaced most of the vacuum lines

New fuel filter but gas was clear in the old one

Grounds and connectors and the likes have been done

Cleaned IAT

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

6 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

Did you look over all the mounts by chance? You could have good fronts but a terrible rear mount. I noticed bell of a difference when I replaced my rear trans mount. 

 

The rear is fine, but the two most rear bolts don't thread properly so I added some plumber's tape to thicken them. But the mount itself is in okay shape.

 

3 minutes ago, Pete M said:

did you pull the plug wires one at a time to see if one isn't firing?  I had a bad plug wire cause a similar thing once. 

 

Yup. The wires and cap are also new within the last year and a half.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, howeitsdone said:

 

The rear is fine, but the two most rear bolts don't thread properly so I added some plumber's tape to thicken them. But the mount itself is in okay shape.

 

 

Yup. The wires and cap are also new within the last year and a half.

 

new doesn't mean working.  I've had too many chinese products fail young to trust otherwise. :( 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

3 minutes ago, Pete M said:

 

new doesn't mean working.  I've had too many chinese products fail young to trust otherwise. :( 

 

I'm with you. That's why pulling the highly electrical charged plug is the "safest" bet. But I believe these are NAPA. (Not saying NOT Chinese) The PO did those and a new battery when I bought it last June.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

32 minutes ago, Minuit said:

Is the cooling fan missing a blade?

 

No it's good as normal. Doesn't even run hot at all since it's all open roads out here and never idles very long.

 

Edit: I think you might mean for throwing off balance and not cooling, but either way...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

4 hours ago, zomeizter said:

the culprit was a broken reluctor in the dizzy

How did you diagnose? Just tear it apart on a guess? Or was there a process?

 

I think I'll try to pull the timing cover and inspect this weekend. I'm wondering if my timing is off somehow.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Drove around town yesterday and when I got home there was a rattling coming from the bellhousing area. So I gave it a couple hours to cool and dropped the trans. The upper E14 bolts and a single dust shield bolt were loose somehow. Starting to make me think that was the part of the rattling because everything looks great in there. It's not the only cause because I can depress the clutch to alter the sound. Pilot bearing looks great. Ever so slightly recessed beyond the surface and I'm guessing that happened when installing the trans last time. But that shouldn't affect anything. The slave looks perfectly normal too.

 

So I'm perplexed as to what is causing issues in there.

 

On a positive, the CPS was covered in caked oil. So I cleaned it all shiny and will be able to test if that was a cause of running rough.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...