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LWB MJ lean after lift?


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Has anyone noticed there LWN MJ lean to the drivers side front after a lift?

I lifted my MJ 4.5" ( with the crustys kit and full 4" leafs )

and shortly after that the ole girl is 1" lower in the front DS . I replaced the front springs and had the same issue.

another friend has an MJ same as me with a 3" kit and it has the same lean. any ideas? niether MJ has been wrecked or offroaded .and both sat perfectly level before the lifts .

 

I was thinking that the springs might have just settled more on the DS because of the wieght of a full 23 gal gas tank and only a driver but that shouldnt have made it lean , at least it didnt lean on the 200.000 mile stock stuff.

 

call me stumped

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Has anyone noticed there LWN MJ lean to the drivers side front after a lift?

I lifted my MJ 4.5" ( with the crustys kit and full 4" leafs )

and shortly after that the ole girl is 1" lower in the front DS . I replaced the front springs and had the same issue.

another friend has an MJ same as me with a 3" kit and it has the same lean. any ideas? niether MJ has been wrecked or offroaded .and both sat perfectly level before the lifts .

 

I was thinking that the springs might have just settled more on the DS because of the wieght of a full 23 gal gas tank and only a driver but that shouldnt have made it lean , at least it didnt lean on the 200.000 mile stock stuff.

 

call me stumped

 

I have heard the front springs on some kits are different per side. The drivers side spring might be a little taller to make up for the weight of a driver being in it. The springs should be marked, but a lot are not. The taller spring should be on the drivers side and if it's not the drivers side will lean. You might want to check the springs out and make sure this isn't your issue. Hope this info helps.

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Mine does too!!!

 

I used to have a extra isolater on the drivers side to help level everything out!! Now I just have the ACOS adjusted to level the truck out.

 

CW

I actualy have 2, 3/4 spacers on the DS and it still leans .

I was thinking of doing the ACOS , how much more is the DS cranked than the PS?

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Did a 3" lift with new metric ton spring pack and OME front coils on my 91 LWB. All's level within 1/4", but been fighting slight vibes after diff gear change. WTF ?? Trade you my vibes for the level equal :D

 

vibes after regear? sounds like driveshaft ballance time :D

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Did a 3" lift with new metric ton spring pack and OME front coils on my 91 LWB. All's level within 1/4", but been fighting slight vibes after diff gear change. WTF ?? Trade you my vibes for the level equal :D

 

vibes after regear? sounds like driveshaft ballance time :D

 

A lift won't change the driveshaft balance.

 

It is probably a pinion angle adjustment that needs to be done.

 

Whenever I lift more then one inch or so I replace the u-joints because the change in operating angles can cause the u-joint to induce vibration.

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Did a 3" lift with new metric ton spring pack and OME front coils on my 91 LWB. All's level within 1/4", but been fighting slight vibes after diff gear change. WTF ?? Trade you my vibes for the level equal :D

 

vibes after regear? sounds like driveshaft ballance time :D

 

A lift won't change the driveshaft balance.

 

It is probably a pinion angle adjustment that needs to be done.

 

Whenever I lift more then one inch or so I replace the u-joints because the change in operating angles can cause the u-joint to induce vibration.

 

I been fighting this for some time and agree, a gear change should not create vibes, but it did in my 2WD. 35-50 MPH under acceleration and coast. New Tom Woods driveshaft w. new joints, no change. "Borrowed" new wheel/tire set, no change. Driveshaft angles are right Tim, put 3* shims in the rear to lower the pinion, u-joint operating angles 2* in front, 3* in back, no change. New tranny mount, no change. New front wheel bearings, no change. Flex plate inspection, looks good, no cracks. 1" longer slip joint, no change. Suspension/steering good, mostly new parts. Aligned, etc. etc. So got to go back to where it all started, the diff. Only things left are slop in the pinion, bad wheel bearing, and/or bent axle. Talk about going crazy. :mad: Sorry to perhaps steal this thread.

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I still would think u-joint operating angle, but don't know for sure.

 

Gas tank for the lean? What else is over there that we can blame it on... Master cylinder, interior stuff.

I know solid axle Yotas lean because from the factory, one front spring mount is put up higher than the other to clear the diff. Stock springs are made to compensate for this, but most aftermarket ones are not.

Have never taken an eye at my front axle closely enough, but my MJ leans a bit too. I just blame it on the tank.

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I had the same problem on Pong. It was worse after we cut the back off and moved the g-tank to the middle :eek: only one of my lifted xj's has this feature.. and that is capser... I think that has to do more with how it is lifted :brows: My theory is it has something to do with the trac bar pulling/ holding that side down

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My theory is it has something to do with the trac bar pulling/ holding that side down

 

Ding ding ding - we have a winner.

 

Same thing happens on Wranglers if you put in a lift and don't address the track bar.

Wow! I would have never thought it made that much of a difference! And I haven't checked mine since I got the TB on.

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I don’t think the track bar will "pull" the truck down if its adjusted or not.

the axel will just move if not adjusted and the springs will tilt from vertical.

Every jeep would have this problem, as they have same or similar setup in the front. not every jeep leans just some. I have seen XJs lean. I also have seen CJs lean and they have leafs and no track bar

My MJ with the factory suspension had a small lean to the driver side, after lift it still had the lean but was more noticeable and it was ½” or so I added one extra spring isolator and it sets perfectly level for the last 3+ years.

So I think it’s the extra weight of the tank(in the case of the MJ) and the driver.

If the track bar pulls it down on the driver side then so does the steering linkage when turning ?.. if thats what you think? ;)

_________________

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If the track bar pulls it down on the driver side then so does the steering linkage when turning ?.. if thats what you think? ;)

_________________

Funny you should mention that. My MJ does lean at full crank... But that's my caster from 5" of lift and loong lowers (stock uppers).

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My 4.5" Rusty's kit had the 1" droop on the DS front also, plus the rear sat WAY higher. They said the rear would settle(which it has started to do) but I threw on a set of ACOS spacers to level the front out, which made the fixed length Rusty's LCA's too short. Then I threw on a full set of RE adjustable uppers & lowers.

Now I am officially broke since my $700 lift turned into a $1700 lift & it rides like crap because the lowers are at such a steep angle. I guess I need drop brackets now & a third visit to the alignment rack.....did I mention I'm broke? :headpop:

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Mine actually came with this 2" lift.

 

I intend to put on the RE 5.5" lift with drop brackets and I think Cabz does as well. I'm planning on ACOS as well so I can make sure it sits the way it should. I just picked up a free set of rear leaves for an MJ so I am set for SOA on the rear already.

 

Cabz MJ actually sits lower in the rear than the front with the 4.5" rusty's.

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a third visit to the alignment rack.....did I mention I'm broke? :headpop:

 

ever hear of a tape measure and a pipe wrench? been running home alignments on my brothers jeep for 2 years on the same tires, no funky wear, nothin 8)

 

or get the expensive LIFETIME alignment (they re-do it free)

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