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Operation 'Basket Case MJ'


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3 minutes ago, Eagle_SX4 said:

I found out this weekend that my horns only work when the key is on.

 

Yeah, I was surprised when I read that in the electrical manual. Most cars from that era the horn wasn't 12V switched. Go figure.

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Off work from job 2 at 10PM, back on C100 TLC. LF turn signal now working. Conditioned all the female pins. A1 was slightly boogered. Took a little time with all pins on both sides, hoping my other issues can only benefit from the effort.

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Tall boy shifter stick from a TJ. I kinda like it. In first it sits at 3:00 from the wheel about 4" away. The tall AX15 shift tower IS from a TJ so it's a shorter throw already.

 

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XJ/ MJ shifter on the TJ shift tower:

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Carpet is in. I started the trimming at the front, just a little at a time until it lined up with the molded areas left and right. Then the sills, and rear last. I added a layer of 1/2" jute to all the areas the carpet didn't come with. Still have to install the rear corner trim/ seat belts and rear panel/ upper trim. And work the headliner in there while I'm at it. Really need to vacuum before I go any further lol.

 

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On 4/30/2025 at 10:43 AM, Gojira94 said:

Carpet is in. I started the trimming at the front, just a little at a time until it lined up with the molded areas left and right. Then the sills, and rear last. I added a layer of 1/2" jute to all the areas the carpet didn't come with. Still have to install the rear corner trim/ seat belts and rear panel/ upper trim. And work the headliner in there while I'm at it. Really need to vacuum before I go any further lol.

 

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Looks good.

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On 5/2/2025 at 7:42 PM, JeffK said:

Looks good.

 

Thank you, sir! Your build is coming along very nicely as well. My dad is in Linville and he said to bring the MJ up when it's roadworthy. We might could meet up in WS for a side by side red 87 MJs pic sometime.

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Header panel stripped, cleaned and reassembled. O'Reilly-mixed Colorado Red in a rattle can worked pretty well to put some color back on it. It was pretty beat up. There's a deep enough crack above the Jeep logo that's going to have me looking for another header panel at some point but it's fine for now. The 10-slot grille is long gone but I don't mind the look of the 8.

 

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On 5/4/2025 at 10:44 AM, Gojira94 said:

 

Thank you, sir! Your build is coming along very nicely as well. My dad is in Linville and he said to bring the MJ up when it's roadworthy. We might could meet up in WS for a side by side red 87 MJs pic sometime.

 

 

We'll do that

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Header panel is on, all lights work (yay). Bumper needs to be adjusted up and tightened, lower valance needs a clean before going back on. Interior is complete except for headliner, bench seat and visors, which hopefully I can knock out tomorrow. Doors will be their own thing, side-project. The regulators need some maintenance and cleaning. Door cards are in great shape. In the next week, I'll be onward to rear suspension. Also need to get those 33s mounted on the steelies ASAP.

 

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Seat brackets cleaned up and painted. Spent some time with the Bissell Green Machine on the seat fabric and it came pretty darned clean.

 

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Bumper is adjusted and secured tightly now.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

She's sitting on her 33s now. Rear still isn't lifted but tackling that soon. Trying to completely finish the interior before moving on. Throttle body from Leigh Performance Machine is on, having issues getting the adapted TPS up to range. Right now it's adjusted maxed out at 10% idle / 85% WOT. Haven't run it yet, but will today. I don't know if the bored throttle body's idle set screw is moved during machining or not, might have to ping Jeff for more info on that. I don't want to pull the TB and mess with it if I can avoid creating another issue. Trying to get 3 variables to line up- determine set screw ideal position, TPS happy, and IAC counts NOT maxed or bottomed out to compensate. 

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Such a great looking truck! Been following this since the beginning and it’s awesome to see it all coming together. Well done! :beerchug:

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7 minutes ago, neohic said:

Such a great looking truck! Been following this since the beginning and it’s awesome to see it all coming together. Well done! :beerchug:

 

Thank you, thank you! There's still quite a few things to get squared away but she'll be on (and off) the road this summer for sure!

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it’s going into closed loop, O2 is working. Runs fine with TPS at 10% base. But… I’d like to see idle RPMs a tad higher. I read somewhere for a Renix manual anywhere from 650-800 is fine. I think I will adjust the base idle screw a hair. That’ll get me closer to 750 and probably raise the IAC counts a bit. I can only guess what that is, surprised the REM doesn’t pull and display that. I’m used to tuning GM stuff and IAC counts are a core indicator of a number of things, especially getting bigger cams to idle/ low speed off-idle without surge.

 

EDIT: I take that back, REM does have an IAC indicator. However, Renix ECU only tells if it's moving one way or the other. ("<128 / >128"). I'll have to look at that again, but I'd expect it to be still and not moving up or down (stable at whatever counts it has at idle).

 

 

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Passenger side regulator had dropped its receiver tube and there was no way I was going to get it back on the barbed end without pulling it. A little heat to soften it and I got it back on there. Followed instantly with ice to shrink and bond it as best as possible. I pulled the other one and greased both with synthetic grease. I don't know if that's a no-no, but the difference is amazing. Before they were both loud and very stiff. The ideal fastener to reinstall them would be stainless or yellow zinc M7-1.0 x 10mm ~or~ 9/32" x 1/2" but good luck finding those without having to wait a day or two at Fastenal or Amazon. Next best is 1/4"-20 x 1/2." With either nylon locking nut or prevailing torque nut on the back. The original rivets spin when you drill them, so you have to hold the back side of them with pliers while you drill. The nut to release the glass is 18mm. There's a wave washer under it.

 

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Passenger side regulator and both new door locks in. Missing half the regulator fastener hardware for the driver's door, but I'll pick that up from job #2 at 5:00. Taking the driver's door lock out, I noticed the short rod attached to it was disconnected from the latch assembly and there was electrical tape around it. And... the one at the lock cylinder was also taped and partially destroyed. Fortunately, I had a couple compatible rod clips left over from door work on my C1500 a couple years ago. All back together and works like it should. Passenger door, ready for panel:

 

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This is the lock cylinder kit I used:

 

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