Operation 'Basket Case MJ'

[Gojira94]

A couple things done on Saturday. Mostly the HVAC (in my case heater only) box. If you've ever taken one out, the studs probably came out of the housing when you backed off the nuts on the engine side. I screwed mine back in with some black RTV in each hole for extra grip. I also put a drop of black RTV at the base of the studs and slipped on a thin rubber washer (5/16" x 3/4") for each of the 5 studs. On the outside I applied the same washers under each nut so they're sealed as well as possible against water intrusion. My OCD in overdrive... 

 

 

I capped off the pink line to what would have been the heater control valve (long gone) and looped the black line to the check valve off the main vacuum source line (partially hidden behind the cruise vacuum dump hose).

 

 

[Gojira94]

Sunday I started working the Engine Control Harness. Mine is Renix, from 89 or 90, so no C101 to contend with. Some changes are needed to make it work. Injector #3 connector won't reach straight up and down, as Renix didn't have the throttle bracket where it is on my setup. Tilting it works, but the rear arch of the throttle bracket needs significant clearancing to get the connector under it. TPS and IAC wires have to come out of the harness and move back about 4" to reach on an HO throttle body. All HO intake designs have the throttle body base exactly the same position, distance and elevation from the intake ports in the (HO) heads. I also have to make a connector adapter from the Renix IAT sensor connector to the updated GM IAT, relocated far away on the horseshoe intake. It'll run along the valve cover and shoot across between injectors 2 & 3. I haven't cleaned my throttle body and installed the TPS adapter yet.

 

 

[Gojira94]

Underneath, everything lines up well for O2, knock and CTS.

 

 

[Gojira94]

Rewinding back in time to my decision to relocate the coil and module- I wasn't sure if the connectors would reach. They don't. I'd hoped the wires for C213 & C214 would pull cleanly together out of the harness for extra slack to reach if not. They don't. So, what I'm doing is reorganizing it a bit to get C213 and C214 into one corrugated sheath and join the main part of the ECH between the cruise servo and blower motor. Yes, this is cutting into an intact survivor post-C101 Renix harness, but it would go back onto any other Renix, the only difference being extra length for C213 & C214.

 

1) Remove C213 pin C (18Ga, Grn w/trace) from splice R - extend green wire from C213 up and route back down and re-create the splice, so C213 & C214 can join the engine control harness at the same point.

 

2) Remove C213 pin A (14Ga Yel) from splice F - move further up, again so C213 & C214 can join the engine control harness at the same point.

 

 

 

[Gojira94]

Coil and module move is done. I need to fix up the loom by the diagnostic connectors, though.

 

 

In other news, the bumper is done and reassembled.

 

 

[Gojira94]

Little bit of work done on lunch break after working in Raleigh the last 2 days. I made the extension for the IAT sensor and got it tucked in the way I want it. Also tidied up the passenger side end of the Engine Control Harness.

 

 

 

[Gojira94]

Home brew fan control harness, missing on my rig:

 

 

 

[Gojira94]

System wiring under the hood nearing completion. Alternator and external regulator wired. Big ground point added in RH fender panel. Tied into original alternator's yellow wire for switched 12V for the regulator, then zip tied and tucked the original alt connector.

 

 

 

 

Power distribution about buttoned up. 200A alternator fuse (160A alt). Mockup battery is from 2016 according to the sticker on it lol. Good core for when I'm ready. The starter relay is backwards and upside down for fitment.

 

[Gojira94]

Minor update- I got the fan relay arrangement buttoned up and loomed, ballast resistor hung. I still need to terminate the power connection for the fan motor, I'm out of zip ties long enough to piggyback on the engine harness crossover under the chin.

 

 

 

I've got the washer line plumbed and wires loomed. Just need to make the connections. For the low washer lamp I'm missing Pin 15 on C204, like most if not all pre-HO MJs. I'll tuck in the connector for C168 for now. I need to go harvest a pin for the instrument cluster soon so I can pretty much do what @Airborne Janitor did for his.

 

 

 

[Gojira94]

Wiring work, and everything else under the hood, complete. Now, onto the interior wiring and dash. Also need to clean the header panel and reinstall it, along with the front bumper.

 

 

[89 MJ]

That looks like new. Great work. 

[Gojira94]

2 hours ago, 89 MJ said:

That looks like new. Great work.

Thank you! It’s a long road… to the road lol.

[Gojira94]

~HAPPY 38TH BIRTHDAY TO MY MJ~ 

 

1JTHS641XHT137765

Build date 3/30/87
Body code TL61
Sold by CROSS COUNTRY MOTORS, INC, WILSON NC (Long gone, was 25 minutes east of where she sits now)

*X1     
-Y1     
APA    MONOTONE PAINT PACKAGE
CBA    BENCH SEAT - STRAIGHT BK
CGX    Head Restraints-Outboard Seating, RR
DCB    Transmission - 4-Speed Manual
EPD    ENGINE - 2.5L I4 TBI GAS
HCC    HEATER W/UPR LEVEL VENTIL - TYPE II
LAP    FUEL ECONOMY SHIFT INDICATOR LIGHT
LMA    HALOGEN HEADLAMPS
MBJ    Bumper - Front, Black
MDA    FRT LICENSE PLATE ATTACH REQUIRED
NAA    ESA W/CATALYST (EXC CALIF SYSTEM)
PE4    Colorado Red
QE4    Colorado Red
SBA    POWER STEERING
TBG    SPARE TIRE - COMPACT
WMC    BASE WHEEL DRESS - UP (INCLS TRIM RING)

[Gojira94]

Transfer case is in and Part-Time light is wired. However... I've remembered that the 93 YJ it came from had CAD. Turns out ALL YJs had CAD. And the 231 yoke on the YJs used straps instead of bolts. I do have a 231 from a 98 XJ that's for parts (locked up solid, haven't taken it apart yet). I can swap the yoke but man, that would have been easier to do on the garage floor. Last gift of the YJ case is this little factoid I remember from early project research. No big deal, just something to keep in mind for now.

 

The early NP231 transfer case used in conjuction with vacuum controlled front axle hub disconnect on early XJ & YJ Jeeps did not have a true neutral disconnect between front and rear axles when the 231 is shifted into neutral, as controlled by crown in the sector plate on the left.

The later 231's did have true front / rear disconnect, as controlled by the valley in the sector plate, right.

[Gojira94]

Transfer case yoke swapped, front shaft is in. Part Time light switch wires routed along the driver's side and then crosses over top of the trans and joins the wire pack for the reverse light switch, up to the main body of the engine control harness.

 

 

Novak cable shifter is in, works great. I did have to re-shape 2 of the ears on the tunnel side bracket to fit flush:

 

 

 

Speedo cable housing and new gear for the 33s in place:

 

 

[Gojira94]

Front bumper is on, fender flares have new backing brackets.

 

 

Part Time light wires tucked inside the engine control harness. Ground side I just added to the ECH ground pack at the passenger side of the engine. Power side is from the original C300. I'm using a later 2-pin switch from a spare 98 t-case.

 

 

Headlight harness update installed.

 

 

Next order of business, the dash and interior wiring so carpet and interior can go back in...