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'88 Comanche coolant reservoir cracking after 2nd replacement


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On 6/17/2022 at 8:04 PM, Pete M said:

purge air out the temp sensor at the back of the head.  :L:

 

Anyone got a picture of this? 

 

I'm following this thread with interest.  Recently by-passed my heater control valve, then replaced it because the coolant overflow tank would fill and coolant leaked past the cap when the motor was hot.  I plan to replace the tank, but wonder if it's air in the system?  I never had any trouble until the plastic part of the control valve snapped off.

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15 hours ago, saveevryjp1998 said:

if you pay attention to gauges

 

Operative phrase.  I have a dummy light cluster. 

 

I was reflecting on that in your earlier reply about having a helper.  Not much help if there's no gauge. 

 

17 hours ago, cruiser54 said:

10244 is the part number of the cap you need.

 

That appears to be a WalMart special not a Volvo cap.  Still, I'll pick one up today because my existing cap doesn't seat.  I'll go hand tight and it will skip and spin another revolution.

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On 8/2/2022 at 9:31 AM, NHMJXJ said:

 

Anyone got a picture of this? 

 

I'm following this thread with interest.  Recently by-passed my heater control valve, then replaced it because the coolant overflow tank would fill and coolant leaked past the cap when the motor was hot.  I plan to replace the tank, but wonder if it's air in the system?  I never had any trouble until the plastic part of the control valve snapped off.

 

Unless you have converted to an "open" cooling system, you don't have a coolant overflow tank. How full do you fill that tank?

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On 8/6/2022 at 2:13 AM, Eagle said:

How full do you fill that tank?

 

The only cap is on the bottle. When the truck is cold, the fluid is at the lower mark.  As far as I know, it's a stock 1988 4.0 system, so is that open or closed?  With the exception of the hoses and clamps I've replaced, it all looks original.

 

I've returned home after traveling the 13 miles from work (mixed highway and surface streets) and when I shut the truck down, the tank fills. It bubbles to full. Similarly, I was in the drive through at a local burger joint and I could hear bubbling.   

 

The idiot light has never come on and when I open the hood, it doesn't seem to be excessively hot. 

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The stock 1988 4.0L cooling system is the closed system. The plastic bottle on the firewall is not an overflow catch tank, it's an integral part of the pressurized cooling system. The bottle should not be filled more than halfway when cold -- there's a post inside the bottle, under the cap, to show you the coolant fill level.

 

Coolant expands as it heats up, so the system needs the air space in the bottle to accommodate the expansion. But there shouldn't be any bubbling. That could be an indication of air in the system.

 

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I'll throw this experience out there.  I had air in my closed system after replacing my water pump.  I saw the temp gauge fluctuations and new it had to be due to coolant vs vapor hitting the temp sensor.  I tried to let some air out at that sensor, but it was messy.  And I had a leaking radiator.  I replaced it with an open system radiator.  I still had the temp fluctuations.  I noticed after each drive, the coolant level at the radiator cap was lower, so I started topping it off after the cool down of each drive.  I'd squeeze the upper radiator hose several times slowly, and it would push some bubbles out, too.  I did that a few times then I started pulling up on a ramp, so the radiator cap location would be a lot higher.  I kept topping it off, but left the cap off.  I'd squeeze the radiator hose more as well.  I did the ramp thing a 2nd time.  By then, I think pretty much all or enough air is out.  There are no more temp fluctuations at the gauge, so the sensor is staying wet, and the cooling fan operation is now normal.  

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I tell you, since I went to open system with the Mac tank, catch tank and new aluminum radiator. Best choice ive made thus far. Had a bit of an issue where coolant was....disappearing? Don't have a blown gasket, not burning it and definitely ain't leaking it. But it hit me. It sits in my rad and would spit it back up to the "cold" line🤦‍♂️. It sucks up and spits out what it needs from the tank. And I didn't realize coolant could do that, so I learned that admittedly. But if you have the option to change over to a open system, do it. Engine runs smoother, cooler and oddly I can tell it's more responsive when I hit the gas. Doesn't lag or feel sluggish anymore either, open system to me feels better and think it feels better since these little renix motors run hotter than motors today at a normal running/idle temp. Which I would actually would like to know? I've been told they run hotter. How hot? My Monte Carlo sits around 195-202° on average 

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  • 3 weeks later...

So close ... 

 

New bottle?   Check

New clamps?   Check 

Heater hose?   Check

 

Did you look at the hose from the bottle to the tee before you cut it to remove it?    Dohhhhh  :doh:  

 

I don't suppose anyone knows if there's a way to fit a 5/8" i.d. heater hose over the bottom

of the bottle?  If only temporarily.    

 

 

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