Heater control valve delete turns cab into oven!

[NHMJXJ]

 

Timely post ... Came off the ramp near my house last night and saw steam rising.

 

 

 

The plastic nipple snapped off.   

 

 

I don't have anywhere near the skills most of you have, but it seems like something I can handle.  Given the comments in this thread, replacement is the plan.  Looks pretty straight forward, but I'm curious if I need something special to secure the line off the

tank, that connects to the valve.  Looks like it's crimped?   Also, is there vacuum involved in this?  I can see an arm in there.

 

Lastly, I've found a few online. Anyone have the OEM part number and are they still available?

 

[Eagle]

Yes, the valve is vacuum actuated.

 

[gogmorgo]

 

This is the vacuum line. Just make sure it gets transferred over to the new valve. There is a risk of damaging the rubber boot, simply given the age, so try not to get too aggressive with it.

The crimped connection is just a connection. You can replace the whole hose, and just push some heater hose over the barb on the new valve, secure it with a hose clamp. Given the age of the hoses in question, you may as well change them out if they’re still original.

 

As far as wanting to replace the valve vs deleting it based on this thread, the issue the OP had was a blend door problem, not a heater valve delete problem. It is true that the air from the vents will be a couple degrees warmer without the heater valve, but for me it’s not significant enough to put up with the drawbacks of having the valve in the system. But individual preferences vary… in my climate there’s only a handful of days a year where I’m more concerned about the absolutely coldest possible a/c than I am about reliable heater performance. As a result I don’t really have a recommendation on a valve to go with. 

[Minuit]

If you're going to use one, try to get a Mopar one if at all possible. The aftermarket (plastic HO-era, anyway) ones are junk and leak right out of the box more often than not. I don't know if the Renix valve is still available. The HO era one was still available when I re-added mine a couple of years ago and cost about $60.

 

They are a controversial feature and I completely understand why someone would not want to have one. I live in the hot, steamy Southeast where those few degrees of A/C vent temp drop are precious for at least 6 months a year. If I didn't live here, I wouldn't have the valve.

[NHMJXJ]

14 hours ago, Minuit said:

The aftermarket (plastic HO-era, anyway) ones are junk

 

Is this what you're referring to?  Says it's genuine Mopar, but it looks plastic.

 

https://www.moparpartsgiant.com/parts/mopar-valve-heater-vacuum-operated~52003226.html

 

 

 

[cruiser54]

They're all junk. Cut the tubing on each side of the valve.

Remove the valve and plug it's vacuum line. 

Put a short piece of heater hose in the valve's old spot. 

 

Sorry, but I have a particular vendetta against these valves for 2 reasons.

 

One, when they fail on the road, almost all coolant is lost instantly. Possible catastrophic engine can result. 

Two, when I reached in the engine bay to remove the oil filter on our 88, I bumped that valve with my elbow. It busted and I got blasted in the face with 200* coolant!! 

[zomeizter]

On my 2.8 'manche, I swapped in a valve from a 99 Yukon, been holding up for 5+ years now. Not a bad idea to bypass it completely though, and the only reason I still have it is because I used to hit the sand dunes in the southwest and running the heater helped keep the engine temp under control...mis dos centavos.