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Valve ticking on new engine


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So I have about 150 miles on the ATK remanufactured engine I just put in. I have noticed a ticking noise from about 1500 rpm to 3000 rpm, I can hear it a little below 1500 but not very noticeable and it goes away completely at high rpm. Kind of sounds like it is valve related to my not expert ears and it doesn't sound like it would be happening on more than one cylinder due to the frequency. Currently running royal purple break-in oil. Any ideas? 

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14 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said:

Did you break in the cam by running it about 2k rpm for 20 mins at startup? 

 

No but I did notice a lot of grease and lube on the cam, so I cleaned all that off and replaced it with some valve lapping compound to get the lifters to break in faster.

 

On a serious note, I drove it around some more yesterday and I think it might actually be driveline related, only seems to tick when under load. Stops ticking altogether when cruising at 65.  

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2 hours ago, BizarroStormy said:

 

No but I did notice a lot of grease and lube on the cam, so I cleaned all that off and replaced it with some valve lapping compound to get the lifters to break in faster.

 

On a serious note, I drove it around some more yesterday and I think it might actually be driveline related, only seems to tick when under load. Stops ticking altogether when cruising at 65.  


:laugh: Seriously though, I can’t tell you how many times this gets ignored only to have cam/lifter failure in very short order out of the box. I have no idea what your mechanical skill level is so I have to start off with the basics. Meant no offense though :L:.

 

 

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3 hours ago, BizarroStormy said:

 

No but I did notice a lot of grease and lube on the cam, so I cleaned all that off and replaced it with some valve lapping compound to get the lifters to break in faster.

 

On a serious note, I drove it around some more yesterday and I think it might actually be driveline related, only seems to tick when under load. Stops ticking altogether when cruising at 65.  

Uh, that was there so the cam would break in properly. Valve lapping compound 'NO"! Also, the 2K RPM for 20-30 minutes is what is recommended by Comp Cams and others. I read about it long ago about 1988. Also, I discussed this with Russ Pottenger ,Bishop Buell Racing, along with other break in procedure. Also, I would not go to synthetics till 10K miles. Also, with flat tappet cams a higher amount of ZDP is recommended. Also, read or confirmed that with the instructions that cam with the Competition Cam for the stroker I am building. 

       There is a lot of prep and proper oiling in building a motor. 

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6 hours ago, 75sv1 said:

Uh, that was there so the cam would break in properly. Valve lapping compound 'NO"! Also, the 2K RPM for 20-30 minutes is what is recommended by Comp Cams and others. I read about it long ago about 1988. Also, I discussed this with Russ Pottenger ,Bishop Buell Racing, along with other break in procedure. Also, I would not go to synthetics till 10K miles. Also, with flat tappet cams a higher amount of ZDP is recommended. Also, read or confirmed that with the instructions that cam with the Competition Cam for the stroker I am building. 

       There is a lot of prep and proper oiling in building a motor. 

I think he was joking

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On 1/28/2022 at 4:24 AM, BizarroStormy said:

 

No but I did notice a lot of grease and lube on the cam, so I cleaned all that off and replaced it with some valve lapping compound to get the lifters to break in faster.

 

On a serious note, I drove it around some more yesterday and I think it might actually be driveline related, only seems to tick when under load. Stops ticking altogether when cruising at 65.  

I like to add a little polishing compound to my oil form time to time, just to keep things nice and polished in there. :laugh:

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24 minutes ago, JustEmptyEveryPocket said:

Sucker! My engine makes its own. I can tell because of the extra shimmer/glitter ever time I change the oil!

Sounds like most of the axles I've owned. I believe the spider gears are tempered to exact tolerance, so that they can breakdown at a specified rate and keep the carrier/pinion bearings polished.

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