Thandraux Posted October 5, 2021 Share Posted October 5, 2021 Buddy of mine has been doing a lot of research and as have I and will be starting to do my own work on the "Bluebird" and looking to get some information on wither I should go with certain fluids or not. Specifically something call NFM (No Friction Modifier) for Gears, Oils, and the like. Been looking specifically at the MPTindustires Website and looking over some data sheets and wanted some more concise data from any possible users. Once I get to a point to be able to take everything apart and clean it all out and then back together again would these products be a good idea to put inside the Factory Transmission, rear axle, and diffs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 5, 2021 Share Posted October 5, 2021 isn't "no friction modifier" just... regular oil? if I remember right, a "friction modifier" is added to clutch posi diffs. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thandraux Posted October 5, 2021 Author Share Posted October 5, 2021 That is why I am asking. There are video's on the youtubes and other sites of people using this stuff and it is removing a lot of the vibrations from their vehicles and even some all together entirely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted October 5, 2021 Share Posted October 5, 2021 that sounds like snake oil to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted October 5, 2021 Share Posted October 5, 2021 6 minutes ago, Thandraux said: That is why I am asking. There are video's on the youtubes and other sites of people using this stuff and it is removing a lot of the vibrations from their vehicles and even some all together entirely. I highly doubt it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted October 5, 2021 Share Posted October 5, 2021 “What oil should I run?” is one of those questions you can ask six people and get ten answers. I don’t see any reason not to run it. The big concern is making sure it’s safe for yellow metals for a manual transmission, and it claims it’s safe for all synchros. It also claims to be up to the task of handling the sliding friction that’s going on inside a diff. My personal opinion is that specialized fluids exist for a reason. I run a dedicated manual transmission oil in my manual transmissions, and an extreme pressure gear oil in the diffs. I’m sure a one-size-fits-all approach will work just fine, but good for everything usually means not great at anything. It also bills itself as a racing oil. Racing, a context where things are torn down and rebuilt incredibly frequently, where fluids are dumped after every event, and the convenience of being able to grab the one jug to top up every single fluid in a hurry is a big advantage. I don’t know what your plans are for your truck, but “Factory Transmission, rear end, and diffs” doesn’t exactly scream “racing” to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thandraux Posted October 5, 2021 Author Share Posted October 5, 2021 I am looking to update transmission and axles and diffs over time of course as I am just a regular joe schmoe trying to get by in a big @$$ city with a lot of stop and go traffic and always either trying to keep up with traffic or even do a push to get past some numbskull doing something stupid (like crossing several lanes of traffic to get to the exit they were just about to miss. Correction, the product my friend was talking about NMF (No more Friction) additive. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted October 5, 2021 Share Posted October 5, 2021 This stuff? https://gonmf.com/technologyj Plenty of people are getting incredibly long lives out of their components just running regular fluids, without something that magically makes sure everything is negatively charged so it doesn’t get attracted together. I won’t say that the NMF does nothing, but I’m not convinced that it can actually do what they claim it does, or even if it did, that the effect would be of much benefit. Just pick a good quality oil and filter if applicable, and change them per the regular maintenance schedule. If you’re installing aftermarket components, check the aftermarket manufacturer’s recommendations on fluids and schedules. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted October 5, 2021 Share Posted October 5, 2021 1 hour ago, Thandraux said: Correction, the product my friend was talking about NMF (No more Friction) additive. If you want an additive that works, look at Mr. Moly. Molybdenum sulfide gear oil supplements have been around for a very long time and they have a proven track record. Do NOT run Mr. Moly in a manual transmission with brass synchronizers. Mr. Moly also has a product formulated for automatic transmissions. I have not tested it. Or just buy Redline gear oil and move on to the next decision. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted October 5, 2021 Share Posted October 5, 2021 42 minutes ago, gogmorgo said: This stuff? https://gonmf.com/technologyj IMHO you'd be better off sending your bank account to the secretary of that Nigerian banker, the woman who needs a reliable partner to help her transfer $50 million out of the country, and she'll give you half for pretending to be his long-lost heir. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted October 5, 2021 Share Posted October 5, 2021 3 hours ago, gogmorgo said: Just pick a good quality oil and filter if applicable, and change them per the regular maintenance schedule. If you’re installing aftermarket components, check the aftermarket manufacturer’s recommendations on fluids and schedules. Correct viscosity clean oil and filter is way more important than minute additives. As was mentioned, the 4.0/2.5 are incredibly well lived engines even with very poor maintenance. Personally, I do use a little zinc additive to keep the cam happy since most conventional oils that I can get here lack that. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thandraux Posted October 6, 2021 Author Share Posted October 6, 2021 Thank you all so much! This site has been a wealth of knowledge for someone who has been trying very hard to get to spot where he can actually do upgrades and use the right materials for his truck. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted October 6, 2021 Share Posted October 6, 2021 An interesting point that came up in class today, the extreme pressure additives in gear oil that are necessary for the sliding contact between ring and pinion in the diffs can decrease friction so much that synchros in a manual transmission won’t work so effectively. I would guess that’s part of the reason friction modifiers are necessary with clutch-style limited slip diffs, and also why Mopar started recommending engine oil over some other form of gear oil in a manual transmission. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted October 7, 2021 Share Posted October 7, 2021 2 hours ago, gogmorgo said: An interesting point that came up in class today, the extreme pressure additives in gear oil that are necessary for the sliding contact between ring and pinion in the diffs can decrease friction so much that synchros in a manual transmission won’t work so effectively. I would guess that’s part of the reason friction modifiers are necessary with clutch-style limited slip diffs, and also why Mopar started recommending engine oil over some other form of gear oil in a manual transmission. Makes sense. I recall seeing that info for motor oil in the ax15. Some “report” higher temps using motor oil in the trans and tcase. The data is hard to sort out though since there are so many variables. I can only report that sae 30 motor oil in the tcase on my mj has been working great for a while now. I also ran motor oil in my ax15’s. Worked very well for me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gogmorgo Posted October 7, 2021 Share Posted October 7, 2021 3 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said: Makes sense. I recall seeing that info for motor oil in the ax15. Some “report” higher temps using motor oil in the trans and tcase. The data is hard to sort out though since there are so many variables. I can only report that sae 30 motor oil in the tcase on my mj has been working great for a while now. I also ran motor oil in my ax15’s. Worked very well for me. I've also used 5 or 10W30 in the trans in a pinch, seems to have worked just fine, as did 15w40 although that took a few blocks to warm up before it started shifting nicely. I'm currently running Royal Purple Synchromax in all my manuals, and it does very well. I found it shifts slightly smoother than the Redline MT90, and I find it easier to come by up here as well, although plenty of us are happy with the Redline. I can't say I've ever attempted to measure trans temp, though. I can only remember the trans tunnel over the ZJ's AX15 ever getting warm while I was towing 5500lbs up double-digit grades over a mountain pass, which I really shouldn't have been doing anyhow. The XJs and MJs I've owned always seem to pump heat off the trans tunnel, no matter if AX5, AX15, or AW4, no matter what fluid was in them... but then I've never been scientific about the measurement. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PIKE Posted October 7, 2021 Share Posted October 7, 2021 For your transmission. https://www.redlineoil.com/75w90-ns-gl-5-gear-oil No friction modifier. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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