ghetdjc320 Posted February 12 Author Share Posted February 12 In regards to sound dampening and insulation: I've been quite averse to laying Dynamat or any other similar butyl-based material on the actual floor pans due to a bad experiences in my last MJ. In retrospect, most of the negativity actually came from having the "mass backing" on my carpet. That junk crumbled into crumb rubber in every nook and cranny. For this build I lined the firewall with dynamat followed by 1/2 dynaliner. The roof and back of the cab is getting dynamat followed by 1/4" dynaliner. I used medium bodied 3m pillar foam in strategic areas between the structure and sheet metal skin. The doors are geting dynamatted inside along with a 12x12" 1/2" dynaliner behind the speaker to help reduce resonance. Instead of the factory water shield, I'm using 1/8 dynaliner to further insulate the doors and deaden the sound. The trans tunnel and possibly the floor will get dynamat followed by 3/8 dynapad which is a very heavy sound absorber and and thermal insulator. I'm still debating using some rubberized undercoating on top of the hard raptor liner as the rubberized stuff does much better at preventing chips from road debris. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 15 Author Share Posted February 15 Latest updates: was able to move the engine forward about 1/2” to get adequate firewall clearance which was a big win. Started work on the tcase linkage. I’m running the Novak cable linkage on the np242. Disassembled the original transfer case shifter to clean and restore it. Works very smoothly now. Also unpacked my 97 front grill. 97+ fenders in the way as well. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 20 Author Share Posted February 20 No major updates but ordered up SKF bearings and seals for the NP242 along with an oem 6 pinion planetary and Tom woods SYE. Should be one solid transfer case. Also got some Eastwood inner frame coating to do the frame rails with. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 21 Author Share Posted February 21 Some more mock ups and test fitting. Also had to modify the trans shifter cover. The wheels here are just sitting about an inch from the rotor mounting surface. Flares will still be coming in another 1/2-3/4”. Wanted to get the tires mounted first so I knew the exact stance I was after. Ended up with a 20mm rear adapter and 27mm front adapter which will be custom made. Rear tires will be almost flush with flares but will tuck in about 1/4”. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchamakalit Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 I wouldn't be able to cut up a bed that looks that nice..... Glad you have more guts than me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 21 Author Share Posted February 21 5 hours ago, watchamakalit said: I wouldn't be able to cut up a bed that looks that nice..... Glad you have more guts than me. Considering how rough this thing started out I have no problem doing just that Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 21 Author Share Posted February 21 The odd thing with the flares is that you don’t get any sort of template. It’s obvious that the placement of the bolts is not an exact science for Notch. You just have to eyeball everything then mark and drill. And if you’re off by a bit, just make the holes bigger with a unibit and use the huge washers provided . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche SS Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 1 hour ago, ghetdjc320 said: The odd thing with the flares is that you don’t get any sort of template. It’s obvious that the placement of the bolts is not an exact science for Notch. You just have to eyeball everything then mark and drill. And if you’re off by a bit, just make the holes bigger with a unibit and use the huge washers provided . body work is like the Wild West of automotive work to some of us, so many opinions and “right way” to do things, all contradicting and all making sense simultaneously lol. since you are replacing the front fenders anyways, use the existing front fenders as a “practice” installation. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 21 Author Share Posted February 21 1 hour ago, Comanche SS said: body work is like the Wild West of automotive work to some of us, so many opinions and “right way” to do things, all contradicting and all making sense simultaneously lol. since you are replacing the front fenders anyways, use the existing front fenders as a “practice” installation. Agreed. I have an extra drivers side fender that was unusable I can try on. They actually seem pretty straightforward compared to doin say a new sheet metal panel. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 21 Author Share Posted February 21 Modified trans tunnel cover, rebuilt tcase shifter. All sealed with “right stuff” and stainless fasteners used. Added copper antiseize to all original machine-thread bolts as I’ve had to fight them far too often when they get rust-welded Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
watchamakalit Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 8 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said: Considering how rough this thing started out I have no problem doing just that But you made it amazing, just to cut it. You sir have more talent and guts than I. Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Comanche SS Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 6 hours ago, ghetdjc320 said: Modified trans tunnel cover, rebuilt tcase shifter. All sealed with “right stuff” and stainless fasteners used. Added copper antiseize to all original machine-thread bolts as I’ve had to fight them far too often when they get rust-welded Do you have a shifter placement offset from stock measurement? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 21 Author Share Posted February 21 9 minutes ago, Comanche SS said: Do you have a shifter placement offset from stock measurement? I didn’t measure it exactly but the front section of the hole is about 1.5” forward from the original cutout. I’m going to use a universal inner shift boot and mount it on a custom shaped aluminum plate that I’ll secure to the trans cover. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 22 Author Share Posted February 22 This may not look like much but this was a lot of electrical work progress . Finished the refurbished e-brake install and the tail lights wiring from the fuse block to the bed. Integrated the air line for the locker along with the amplifier wiring. Also routed the overhead console wiring. The console itself has just been professionally rebuild and the circuit boards have been conformal coated now which should last a long time. I have wiring for a 3rd brake light and would like to add one but have a nice cargo lamp I was going to install. @Limeyjeeper You used a ranger 3rd brake light correct? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 23 Author Share Posted February 23 More parts. NP242 SYE from Tom Woods along with an oem 6 pinion planetary and front and rear 1310 pinion yokes with u bolts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 25 Author Share Posted February 25 The connector for the 97+ front clip wiring arrived. Very cool that it’s all ready to go. Just need to ID the wiring. The painless kit is quite easy to use overall and a pretty good option for the MJ. There are a few tricky items to sort out wiring on such as the wiper system, ac request and some of the lighting but it’s not overly complex. Integrating factory door locks, power windows, air locker system, audio system, heated seats, overhead console, dash cam etc. is where the complexity really comes into play. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted February 26 Share Posted February 26 On 2/21/2024 at 11:33 PM, ghetdjc320 said: This may not look like much but this was a lot of electrical work progress . Finished the refurbished e-brake install and the tail lights wiring from the fuse block to the bed. Integrated the air line for the locker along with the amplifier wiring. Also routed the overhead console wiring. The console itself has just been professionally rebuild and the circuit boards have been conformal coated now which should last a long time. I have wiring for a 3rd brake light and would like to add one but have a nice cargo lamp I was going to install. @Limeyjeeper You used a ranger 3rd brake light correct? I used the Recon 264129BK for an F150 with the Bulletproof diesel 90201129 Cargo light and antenna mount for the same vehicle. The mount installed flush to the Comanche and the Recon then fitted inside that mount. It allows the fitting of a bigger 3rd light and gives you an antenna mount for a CB or other antenna. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 26 Author Share Posted February 26 2 hours ago, Limeyjeeper said: I used the Recon 264129BK for an F150 with the Bulletproof diesel 90201129 Cargo light and antenna mount for the same vehicle. The mount installed flush to the Comanche and the Recon then fitted inside that mount. It allows the fitting of a bigger 3rd light and gives you an antenna mount for a CB or other antenna. Thanks for the info! I've been looking at the Morimoto 3rd brake light options. If you would have used the BPD adapter, would you have to have cut some larger holes for the back of the 3rd brake light? Do you think the contour matches the MJ cab in that area? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 Stripped down the NP242 getting ready for a build. This thing was nasty inside. Once I had it all stripped down i used it to mock up where it was going to mount to check for clearance. Much easier to maneuver an empty shell. Put all the old hardware in the tumbler. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 28 Author Share Posted February 28 The 97+ NP 242 4wd indicator switch is a 4 pin unit which provide a separate continuity for the “full-time” and “part-time” 4wd positions. I identified the connector as a Delphi 12065298. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 On 2/26/2024 at 11:36 AM, ghetdjc320 said: Thanks for the info! I've been looking at the Morimoto 3rd brake light options. If you would have used the BPD adapter, would you have to have cut some larger holes for the back of the 3rd brake light? Do you think the contour matches the MJ cab in that area? No, the adapter fits flush with the body of the Comanche and contours really well. I will get you a side view this weekend when I get back home. The Morimoto should fit in the BPD adapter as it is machined for the standard factory F150 3rd light. I presume the Morimoto is too. Sweet looking product. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 29 Author Share Posted February 29 1 minute ago, Limeyjeeper said: No, the adapter fits flush with the body of the Comanche and contours really well. I will get you a side view this weekend when I get back home. Good to know. So it sounds like the f150 brake light should fit against the body in my application so long as I open up the appropriate holes for it. Here is what I’m thinking of running: https://www.morimotohid.com/Ford-F-150-15-Morimoto-X3B-LED-Brake-Light?quantity=1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Limeyjeeper Posted February 29 Share Posted February 29 Looks like a quality product. I like the brake flash and camera option. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 29 Author Share Posted February 29 BORA custom wheel adapters just came in. Super awesome product. They offer lifetime warranty and inscribe your invoice number into the back of each unit. The rears are only 19mm thick and the fronts are 27mm thick. There are custom made for this Jeep with the JT M14 lug studs and the specific KJ (71.50mm) and JT wheel (71.54mm) hub bore. These are both hub and lug centric for a smooth solid ride. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ghetdjc320 Posted February 29 Author Share Posted February 29 I think we should start a thread with all the known electrical connectors and part numbers as they can be tricky to find. I’ve been tracking down everything I can find and the one that stumped me was the power mirror switch connector. It, along with various other electrical parts were made in Japan and don’t use the standard Delphi/Aptiv/TE connectors. Fortunately I had a connection from working on Japanese watercraft that came through and found this most obscure of connectors. It is a Yazaki PA series with .120 pins. This is the 7 position connector that connects to the board connector for the mirror switch. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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