Brake work . . . a nightmare of biblical proportions!

[NC Tom]

I'll post my full experience of replacing my MC and brake booster at a later date. But for now I need help to get my Hoopty back on the road as it's my DD.

 

As I'm starting to bleed the brakes, fluid is shooting out the back of the truck! I checked underneath to see a substantial leak where the lines meet around the proportional valve. See pic. The hard line rusted through and snapped off while trying to loosen the rubber line. The rubber line and hard line are rusted together. The other end of the hard line is rusted solid to the "T" connector. I cannot get tools and my hands up there to try and break it loose.

 

Does anyone have any real world options to fix this mess? I've been reading through the posts about deleting the prop valve, but I'm not familiar enough with these brake systems to really understand what to do. It may seem clear to others but, unfortunately, I'm dyslexic or something when it comes to this stuff.

 

I'm looking for a repair that can be done with parts from Advance or Auto Zone. Napa works too, but they're closed tomorrow.

 

Thanks!

 

 

[jdog]

start soaking the lines in pb blast, quickest fix is flare a new end on the broken line and replace the rubber hose.

[NC Tom]

31 minutes ago, jdog said:

start soaking the lines in pb blast, quickest fix is flare a new end on the broken line and replace the rubber hose.

 

I imagine that would be right. However, the rubber hose connects to a three-way fitting in a manner I haven't seen before.

[Pete M]

I'd get rid of the prop altogether and run new line all the way from the front with either a T up front or a plug for the emergency line.  the link in my signature has some alternatives for deleting the rear prop valve.  you can either do it with bulk line and a flaring tool (although the cheap flare tools suuuuuck), or you can buy lengths of pre-flared line and just connect them all together (make extra sure that all the ends are correct and matching).  I've done it both ways. 

 

by "three way fitting", are you referring to the axle side with the integrated vent line?  or the upper where it merges with the propped line and the emergency line?

 

[NC Tom]

2 minutes ago, Pete M said:

by "three way fitting", are you referring to the axle side with the integrated vent line?  or the upper where it merges with the propped line and the emergency line?

 

 

I guess that's it. No threads, just plugs in.

 

 

[Pete M]

yup, that block comes with the replacement hose.   lots of trucks use a similar thing though if you can't find an MJ.  they are usually used because they are longer to accommodate a lift. 

[NC Tom]

3 minutes ago, Pete M said:

yup, that block comes with the replacement hose.   lots of trucks use a similar thing though if you can't find an MJ.  they are usually used because they are longer to accommodate a lift. 

 

Great! What's it called, I'll look for one.

[Jesse J]

pretty sure rear dakota lines bolt in but don't quote me 

[jdog]

rear brake hose

[jdog]

Just now, Jesse J said:

pretty sure rear dakota lines bolt in but don't quote me 

quoted and correct

[NC Tom]

6 minutes ago, jdog said:

rear brake hose

Ah. Expected a more specialized name.

[NC Tom]

1 hour ago, jdog said:

start soaking the lines in pb blast, quickest fix is flare a new end on the broken line and replace the rubber hose.

 

Anybody use the rental flare tool from Advance Auto?

 

https://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/powerbuilt-tools-kit-23-double-flaring-tool-set-9-piece-648610/9150055-P?searchTerm=9150045+OR+9150055+OR+9150047

[jdog]

Yes and you have to make sure it's straight

[NC Tom]

1 minute ago, jdog said:

Yes and you have to make sure it's straight

 

Thanks Jason. Are these lines 1/4". Any domestic line should work if I decide to go with pre-flared?

[jdog]

That I'm not sure of for size

[Pete M]

do any of the threads in the link in my sig say? 

 

[ghetdjc320]

The lines are 3/16. If you buy any replacement lines you can use the regular old steel lines but it’s much easier to use the newer copper nickel lines. Most auto parts stores have started to carry them. The rental flare tool has a tough time double flaring steel line. I’d replace the line from the load sensing valve down to the axle. However, if your willing to take some more time and invest a bit more for a long term solution then do what @Pete M suggests and run a new line back from the distribution block under the hood to the rear axle. This will eliminate the load sensing valve along with its convoluted (albeit ingenious) shuttle valve and bypass lines. 
the fitting size for the load sensing valve to axle is 3/16 inverted flare. Reflaring what’s left of that existing rusted line will be brutal with a rental flare tool. 

[Pete M]

oh, and don't feel pressured to match the factory routing.  run it in a safe location and be done with it for now.  you can always revisit it later.  

[NC Tom]

Thanks everybody. I have something to think about now. If I can get the stock lines to break free, I'll likely just replace the rear hose and that one hard line. If I can't get the stock line off, well, I guess I'll be spending a lot of time under the truck.

[AZJeff]

26 minutes ago, NC Tom said:

Thanks everybody. I have something to think about now. If I can get the stock lines to break free, I'll likely just replace the rear hose and that one hard line. If I can't get the stock line off, well, I guess I'll be spending a lot of time under the truck.

Since you are replumbing the system, I have found a butane torch with a pencil tip to be really helpful in loosening rusty connections.
—Use a wire brush to remove loose corrosion

—Apply hear to the flare nut with the torch

—While good and hot, turn the flare nut with a flare nut wrench.  Try to avoid using an open-end wrench, as they tend to round off the nuts.  Only use Vise-Grips if the nut is too rounded off to get a wrench to engage the flats.

[Pete M]

yup, a little heat can go a long way.    just take care with that flame, as brake fluid is indeed flammable.   

[NC Tom]

On 8/29/2021 at 1:33 PM, Pete M said:

yup, a little heat can go a long way.    just take care with that flame, as brake fluid is indeed flammable.   

 

Heat was the trick to getting the bleed screws loose and off! Had to replace those guys as I butchered them beyond recognition.

 

[NC Tom]

On 8/29/2021 at 1:17 PM, AZJeff said:

Only use Vise-Grips if the nut is too rounded off to get a wrench to engage the flats.

 

"Rounded off" is nice way to describe what I did to those poor, poor screws.