0 to 60 times

[Coyote]

The Comanches were considered fast back in the day, but a lot has changed in the last 30 years. I picked up a REM unit and have been having alot of fun with it. Recently I started playing with the 0 to 60 timer function. As I've fixed and modified the Comanche I've been checking my progress with the timer. It may not be the best, but since I don't have a dyno or 1/4 mile track it's the only real consistent way I have of measuring improvements. When I first got my Eliminator it was doing a leasurly 10 sec 0 to 60 (pretty much factory spec). Now after some improvements I'm down to a blistering fast 8.27 seconds. Lol I have no illusions of ever beating a sports car, but what is a realistic expectation of 0 to 60 times without doing any major engine work? Does anyone else care to share their times so I can get an idea of how I'm doing?

 

Coyote

[Pete M]

gearing will make all the difference  

[Coyote]

Swapped out my 1988 ECU for a 1990 ECU per a youtube video/Cruiser54. Getting the top bolt out is a bear, but after that it's a piece of cake. The throttle response is MUCH better. Just got around to doing some 0 to 60 times. I have no way of measuring the horse power, but it improved my time by a half second. Now I'm down to 7.77 seconds. Definitely worth the $135. 😁

[Coyote]

8 minutes ago, Pete M said:

gearing will make all the difference  

I'm just running the stock Dana 35 with 3.55 gears. What are you running?

 

It's all about the low end torque. The 0 to 60 and 60 to 0 times are way more important to me than top speed. I'm never going to road race a Porsche, but I'd love to smoke one off the line. 😂

[Pete M]

my dakota had 3.92s and was an absolute demon.   

 

I'd go 4.10s to bring on the smiles  

 

(though I'd also never spend that coin on a 35.  invest your cash in a better axle to upgrade. )

 

the Explorer 8.8 can be had with 4.10s and posi.  the MJ/XJ 44 is a great choice too, as is the Liberty 8.25 or 97+ XJ 8.25.  all either come with disks or can be easily converted with junkyard parts.

 

[Coyote]

1 hour ago, Pete M said:

 

You're reading my mind. Lol Rear breaks are crap; bad driver's side wheel cylinder, badly rusted drums and break hardware. I'd like to do a rear disc conversion, but for the price I may as well just get a whole new axle with discs already on it. Looking hard at an Explorer 8.8 or Liberty 8.25, don't think an XJ 8.25 is worth it after I add in the cost to convert to disc. Do you prefer the Explorer 8.8 or Liberty 8.25?

[ghetdjc320]

I’m running 6.4 seconds on my built engine with 4.56 gears. This was on my gps speedo app. 
For wheeling I’m not a fan of the 8.8. Its a decent axle for a mild street build though. I’ve dropped some coin on the d35 and am super happy with the clearance and strength so far. The disk kits for the 35 also fit the 8.25. 
 

Maybe a few years down the road, I’d like to build a 2wd mj street truck. 

[Pete M]

The explorer is an inch more narrow than stock MJ, the Liberty is a couple wider.  I like the Liberty because the extra width accommodates the MJ's wide backside (that's why the rear tires always look "tucked" compared to an XJ). Both are good axles.  If you're lucky, car-part.com might be able to find you a 4.10 liberty axle. They only came under 4banger gas libbys in certain years. 3.73 is infinitely more common.  '02 libbys have drums so avoid those. 

[mnkyboy]

Years ago I checked mine with a phone app, I had a 2.5l TBI,3.55s and 33s.

Iirc, 0-60 was around 17.5 seconds.

 

It would be interesting to see what it does now.

[Jesse J]

5 hours ago, mnkyboy said:

Years ago I checked mine with a phone app, I had a 2.5l TBI,3.55s and 33s.

Iirc, 0-60 was around 17.5 seconds.

 

It would be interesting to see what it does now.

you should because you definitely don't have a stock 2.5 any more or 33s