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Project "It's a Jeep Thing" - Huntr's 87 MJ Build


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8 hours ago, eaglescout526 said:

I gave you a pointer, don’t go to Tucson, hahaha. I know only a few things of interest. Mt Lemmon. The top has a cabin like building for the snow sport people and they make a big fricken cookie. Really good. Paul McCartneys ranch is in Tucson if your a Beatles, Wings or fan of Paul McCartney. And this one is irrelevant but double V scout ranch is also down there. Oh the titan missile museum is about 20 miles or so south of Tucson. 


Haha coming from Wichita Falls this place is SIGNIFICANTLY better. Plus Davis Monthan is a fairly nice base. I’m just glad I showed up in the fall! 

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48 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said:

I forgot about the Pima air and space. That is a really cool place. There’s supposed to be a plane grave yard somewhere around there but I don’t remember exactly where it is but you also can’t really visit it either. 

It’s on the base but I have access. I’ve been meaning to check out Pima air and space.

 


Damn you boys really picked through this one! 
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32 minutes ago, Salvagedcircuit said:

That back glass is definitely a nice have. Too bad it's a process to remove correctly.

Dang… I’m literally about to start to try and remove it haha. I need a new back window. Any tips? 

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Here's his video:

 

From my searches, the back glass and gasket are completely held in by urethane glue, the same stuff used to install windshields.

I can imagine a series of plastic pry tools and painters putty knives will let you remove the gasket relatively easily.

Once the gasket is off, he used 1/16in stainless braided cable, the same as the parking break cable. You can also just purchase 1/16in garage door wire from any hardware store, it's the same thing.

Kody used a torch and a screwdriver to melt a hole in the urethane. A soldering iron would likely work the same. Don't forget a glove so you don't kill your hands.

 

Good luck!

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22 minutes ago, Salvagedcircuit said:

Here's his video:

 

From my searches, the back glass and gasket are completely held in by urethane glue, the same stuff used to install windshields.

I can imagine a series of plastic pry tools and painters putty knives will let you remove the gasket relatively easily.

Once the gasket is off, he used 1/16in stainless braided cable, the same as the parking break cable. You can also just purchase 1/16in garage door wire from any hardware store, it's the same thing.

Kody used a torch and a screwdriver to melt a hole in the urethane. A soldering iron would likely work the same. Don't forget a glove so you don't kill your hands.

 

Good luck!

Awesome thanks!!!! 

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Well that was miserable. Removing the rear window took hours. The outer seal was glued in incredibly well. There was no saving it. Finally managed to get the window out, passenger window regulator, and door check. Definitely don’t want to have to do that again…

 

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4 hours ago, Huntr said:

Well that was miserable. Removing the rear window took hours. The outer seal was glued in incredibly well. There was no saving it. Finally managed to get the window out, passenger window regulator, and door check. Definitely don’t want to have to do that again…IMG_2360.jpeg.36a33a6d436b92fb720ae45703462154.jpeg

Ooofh. Sorry to to hear it was a pain. I havn't done it myself. Any techniques that you found worked?

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11 hours ago, Salvagedcircuit said:

Ooofh. Sorry to to hear it was a pain. I havn't done it myself. Any techniques that you found worked?

 

The technique in the video you sent worked pretty well. The problem was the outer seal was glued in by someone incredibly well. There was no getting it out of parts of the window. The parts that still had the outer seal cut extremely slow with the wire method. Using a long razor blade to score those areas repeatedly helped when the sawing wasn't making progress. Also, having two people would have made it much easier. 

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Well the Black Friday deals got me… just ordered a Cavfab Alpha 3 link, track bar, and track bar drop bracket. I just couldn’t pass up the 20% off. 

 

So naturally I had to figure out fender flares. I decided to go with fiberglass flares in the front. I’m in SoCal for the holiday and conveniently all of the major fiberglass companies are based here. After calling around, the only manufacturer with any stock was Hannemann. Very nice gentleman who even offered to deliver the flares to me for free! Also decided to try out his hood, we’ll see if I like the look. IMG_2388.jpeg.1355ab8ae53143e10e259fad4d7f0004.jpegIMG_2386.jpeg.32fc77a7393c64e4f3601d2b45d3d592.jpeg

 

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Also got a pretty killer deal on 5 JL wheels with basically brand new KO2 35 12.5R17 tires on them. I need to figure out what the backspacing on the factory 17 JL wheels is and order some adapters. Not sure what backspacing to shoot for on the Comanche. 
 

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  • 2 months later...

Lifted the rear 4.5". Then stuffed the 35's underneath. I'm using Fox reservoir shocks from my old XJ. The rear's aren't really long enough for the spring under setup. I'll have to move the shock mounts or get longer shocks. Also need to lengthen the rear brake line. Next up will be throwing the Cav Fab 3 link on the front to level it out. 

 

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  • 1 month later...

Lifted the front using the Metal Cloak True Dual Rate Coils, 4.5" and CavFab Alpha 3 link. Also have the CavFab track bar and track bar drop bracket. Fox reservoir shocks in the front are working well. I'm now running Bilstein 5100 shocks in the rear (part #33-104652). The fox shocks weren't long enough and were at full extension over every bump making it a rough ride. The Bilstein's have been a huge improvement so far. IMG_2734.jpeg.7bc898a06982a890a090ef728cbed927.jpegIMG_2733.jpeg.846ceb2ee6140ff6e8b9954d070b26d4.jpegIMG_2732.jpeg.6ab37ce382298d99f13c0cd2e20a3bd2.jpeg

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