Upgrades to make a true 1-ton

[EUREKA]

9 minutes ago, Pete M said:

a spring over gives around 6" of lift. 

 

My KJ has a 242 and has been in AWD mode for 13 years and 200k miles so far.  I wouldn't want any other t-case.  

Wow, that's way more lift than the thickness of the axle tube! Nevermind.

[Pete M]

SOA = the diameter of the tube + thickness of the pack +2x the perch height

 

 

[EUREKA]

2 minutes ago, Pete M said:

SOA = the diameter of the tube + thickness of the pack +2x the perch height

Of course.

[derf]

On 8/28/2020 at 5:58 PM, EUREKA said:

It's nice to hear something encouraging about the 242 because it does seem to fit my needs. Is there a brand of hack in tap sye that you recommend for the 242? I have only rebuilt 231's using Novak Adapter kits.

 

I hadn't planed to lift it much, partly because I don't want to make it more difficult to use the bed. I think 2" spacers on the metric ton front coils for the front, and spring over for the rear. I'm not sure that would give an even lift though. I plan on upgrading the swaybar. Plan on new control arm bushings, and WJ control arms as well.

 

I'm not aware of any factory clutch pack type LSD that are comparable to the truetrack in performance. I have seen some factory LSD perform very well when they are still newer, but not the same. Helical gear LS is far superior in my experience, especially once in the mud. Basically, if I can't find one for the MJ Dana44, I will not be using my Dana44 in this truck.

FWIW, I have the Tom Woods SYE kit in my 242.  If you don't mind spending the money for an easy button solution, I'd recommend them.

 

The differential in the MJ Dana 44 is the same as any standard Dana 44.  Just like the XJ, just like the Fords, GMs and Dodges.  A standard Dana 44 TrueTrac works just fine in there.

[EUREKA]

27 minutes ago, derf said:

FWIW, I have the Tom Woods SYE kit in my 242.  If you don't mind spending the money for an easy button solution, I'd recommend them.

 

The differential in the MJ Dana 44 is the same as any standard Dana 44.  Just like the XJ, just like the Fords, GMs and Dodges.  A standard Dana 44 TrueTrac works just fine in there.

Thanks. I actually had a tom woods drive line in my last jeep. I see the 242 sye is sold packaged with a tom woods drive line by rustys offroad.

And I saw using summits website that its no problem finding truetrack nits for the Dana 44. Its valuable to know that it is not some kind of oddball version.

[75sv1]

Might try Iron Roc for a Hack-n-Tap for the 242. They also sell a custom length driveshaft(s). Others do too.  I'm in the work for a 242 on my XJ build. A ways to go. Good to hear positives on the 242, also. I drive in mixed snow pavement. So, the 242 would be better for driving in it. 

[Parker]

In short for WJ brake swap you need;

 WJ rotors redrilled to 5x4.5,
WJ knuckles,

WJ brake caliper bracket,

WJ brake calipers,

WJ pads,

JKS weld on unit bearing spacer,

00+ XJ/TJ unit bearings, 

 

What is different about the 00+ unit bearings?

 

Thanks

[75sv1]

4 hours ago, Parker said:

In short for WJ brake swap you need;

 WJ rotors redrilled to 5x4.5,
WJ knuckles,

WJ brake caliper bracket,

WJ brake calipers,

WJ pads,

JKS weld on unit bearing spacer,

00+ XJ/TJ unit bearings, 

 

What is different about the 00+ unit bearings?

 

Thanks

The height or with of them compared to  earlier years. They are near the same height as the WJs. Yes, I did use '00 XJ hubs first. Then I did the front with WJ hub bearing units to use WJ rims. I'd look at Ironman 4X4 site. I think he states that some latter Wrangler hub units have a bit longer studs. Also, don't forget WJ ball joints and 1/4 width washer spacers for the caliper brackets. 

[Parker]

I was under the impression unit bearing spacers (to align the u joints with the ball joints) lower wj ball joints due to the different taper and the (caliper spacers to use the 99 and earlier unit bearings) or the (99.5 and up unit bearings without the caliper spacers). Is this wrong?

 

I've mocked it up with unit bearing spacer (forgot were I bought it but it's for this swap), a older unit bearing and 1/4" scrap metal for caliper spacer (because I haven't made the real ones yet) and it looks right to me. 

 

I can't figure out how to post pictures.

 

Thanks

 

Sorry for hijacking the thread.

[75sv1]

8 hours ago, Parker said:

I was under the impression unit bearing spacers (to align the u joints with the ball joints) lower wj ball joints due to the different taper and the (caliper spacers to use the 99 and earlier unit bearings) or the (99.5 and up unit bearings without the caliper spacers). Is this wrong?

 

I've mocked it up with unit bearing spacer (forgot were I bought it but it's for this swap), a older unit bearing and 1/4" scrap metal for caliper spacer (because I haven't made the real ones yet) and it looks right to me. 

 

I can't figure out how to post pictures.

 

Thanks

 

Sorry for hijacking the thread.

Yes, wrong. Sorry, but also partially correct. You need the 00+ hub bearings. That provides the correct dimensional stack up of rotors, etc. You need the hub bearing spacer as you mentioned to keep the axle drive shaft U-joint in line with the pivot axis of the knuckle. You need two per side 1/4 thickness washers to space the caliper brackets if using the WJ rotor. Since you spaced the hub bearing out 1/4, the caliper needs spaced out 1/4. That does relie on the dimensional stack up of the parts though.  I have used 07-08 Liberty or Dodge Nitro rotors. I had none to 1/8 spacers for those setups. 

    I haven't seen a setup with the earlier hub bearing units. It would depend on finding a rotor with the correct hat height etc. Yes, I've looked.