Upgrades to make a true 1-ton

[EUREKA]

What do I need to do to make my truck worthy of the metric ton title?

I'm not a big fan of the inverted y steering set up to begin with, and it is clearly not beefy enough.

I also want to upgrade my front brake system to something appropriate for a truck that may carry a 1 ton payload.

 

Should I go with steering and brake system conversion kits, or is there an axle out there that I can swap in without a major fabrication project? WJ front axle?

I already plan to upgrade the planetary gear set, and chain size in the t-case.

 

Thanks again for the help!

[Pete M]

that's a bit of a complicated question because a ton isn't much more than normal truck can carry.  true one-ton fullsize truck can carry way more (7k#+). 

 

on one hand, to haul a ton in the bed you technically don't have to do anything aside from the usual Metric ton features (stiffer springs, stiffer shocks, better rear axle, and steel rims).  that's rated for carrying 2200 pounds right there   (assuming everything is in excellent condition of course).  

 

on the other hand, there's no legal way to carry that much if your truck was rated for the lesser amount.  max weight from the factory is max weight for life.  the law and your insurance company don't care if you've improved everything little thing. 

 

on the other-other hand, we all like upgrades and better performance!   so there's a ton (pun intended) of the usual you can do including: better gear ratio and the dual brake booster (tops of my list), plus later model (aka bigger) ujoints/shafts in the front axle, the WJ brake conversion with hi-steer arms, v8 ZJ steering bits for tougher stock steering, disk brake conversion on whatever axle you pick for the rear, WJ control arms, and a big fat trans cooler if you have an auto. 

 

the internal upgrades to the t-case are super cool, but won't really help much when hauling 2200 pounds as you won't very likely be using 4wd at the same time.  or if you are, it's for a super short time trying to get off of the wet gravel next to the pavement.  The stock t-case is already rated for such a thing.  but on the other-other-other hand, I've been planning on the same upgrades for my wheeler.  

[EUREKA]

I see. I'm generally not too informed on truck payload capacities. What I really want is to correct what I see as deficiencies in the truck.

This truck is primarily a daily driver / work truck. But I often work in remote areas with muddy, rutted dirt roads. I once snapped a factory ZJ track-bar getting to a worksite.

I would like the best possible compromise between excellent on highway performance, and lightish off-road performance. And I am willing to overbuild to that end.

 

Judging from my past XJ's and ZJ's the factory brake systems are pathetic, once the vehicle is loaded, and you are going over hills. And honestly I've hauled heaping loads to the dump in my metric ton Comanche that made me feel that the brake system is inadequate. And just looking at the tie-rods, well those are not 1-ton tie-rod ends.

 

I do not care one bit about the law, at least not in this regard.

 

I haven't settled on a tire size yet, but I will be re-gearing.

I definitely want to dual brake booster upgrade. I'll have to look into this.

I'm not sure I want to upgrade the shaft in the Dana 30,  rather than replace the entire axle but I'm open to it since I will never have giant tires or really rock crawl with this truck.

Rear axle will be the Dana44 from my metric ton Comanche. I need to find a disk brake conversion for it.

I recall looking into the WJ brake conversion for my ZJ in the past. Is it the "best" option for upgrading the front brakes?

I am very interested in an over the knuckle / high steer upgrade. I would want to keep on road performance in mind. Any recommendations?

WJ control arm upgrade is new to me. I will def look into that.

 

The t-case upgrade are really for fun, plus I "have to" do the sye anyway, so I figure I might as well throw in a couple upgrades.

 

 

 

 

 

[Pete M]

the link in my sig will have much of the info you seek   

 

the WJ arms are the same length as MJ arms but fully boxed and have a curve for tire clearance.  they are good for up to 3" of lift (or more if you go with drop brackets).

[derf]

If you're looking mostly to have a truck that can work in the field and hold up, the most cost effective way to do it is to buy a different truck.

 

Assuming you don't want to that, you'll need to build and fabricate upgrades based on parts from other vehicles. 

 

Upgraded axle housings are probably where you want to start.  There are many options.  Front Dana 44's can be sourced from 80's Jeep Grand Wagoneers and J-Trucks (70's has the differential on the wrong side).  Also, with some exceptions, mid to late 70's Ford F150 and F250 trucks have the axles you want (80's they went to the TTB axles which are the reheaded step child of front axles).  Rear Dana 44, Dana 60 and Ford 9" axles from the same donors will handle the weight.  For even more strength, look to the big boys.  F350's going back a long ways have front Dana 60 axles and Sterling 10.25/10.5 axles (with Dana 60 and 80 as options).  Starting in 1999 the SuperDuty F250s went back to a solid axle (Dana 50 then Dana  60) with the same Sterling rear axles.  There's enough support among the aftermarket to help swap any of these axles into an MJ.

 

It's possible to bring the 3/4 or 1 ton steering from the donor axle to the MJ.  You can also get kits to bolt 1 ton steering parts to factory axles.

 

The MJ uses a steering gear box that was in everything from YJs to XJs to 1/2 and 3/4 ton Jeep trucks and Wagoneers so it's probably good as-is.  Though there are a few upgrades to the mounting area that you want to look into.

 

Big brake kits are available.  Heavy duty axles come with bigger stronger brakes.

 

The dual diaphragm brake booster from newer XJs is an easy upgrade.  You can get hydroboost boosters from a number of companies if you start getting into bigger brakes.

You can get stiffer springs (with overloads in the back if you want) to handle the heavier loads and hold up longer if you don't mind the stiffer ride.

 

There are a few options for unibody frame stiffeners that will reinforce the subframe in the front all the way to the back frame section.

 

The engine/transmission/transfer case is pretty well matched.  The Peugeot 5 speed manual won't hold up to a lot of abuse but the AX-15 is a good upgrade.  As long as you have gearing set up to match your tire size, you don't really need much in the way of upgraded drivetrain.  An auxiliary transmission cooler for the AW4 automatic is always a good idea.  If you do a V8 swap for more power, you'll want to bring along stronger transmission/transfer cases.

 

Strength is just a matter of money and fabrication.  How strong can you afford to make it?

[EUREKA]

2 hours ago, Pete M said:

the link in my sig will have much of the info you seek   

 

the WJ arms are the same length as MJ arms but fully boxed and have a curve for tire clearance.  they are good for up to 3" of lift (or more if you go with drop brackets).

 

Thanks, I'll check it out.

[EUREKA]

1 hour ago, derf said:

If you're looking mostly to have a truck that can work in the field and hold up, the most cost effective way to do it is to buy a different truck.

 

Assuming you don't want to that, you'll need to build and fabricate upgrades based on parts from other vehicles. 

 

Upgraded axle housings are probably where you want to start.  There are many options.  Front Dana 44's can be sourced from 80's Jeep Grand Wagoneers and J-Trucks (70's has the differential on the wrong side).  Also, with some exceptions, mid to late 70's Ford F150 and F250 trucks have the axles you want (80's they went to the TTB axles which are the reheaded step child of front axles).  Rear Dana 44, Dana 60 and Ford 9" axles from the same donors will handle the weight.  For even more strength, look to the big boys.  F350's going back a long ways have front Dana 60 axles and Sterling 10.25/10.5 axles (with Dana 60 and 80 as options).  Starting in 1999 the SuperDuty F250s went back to a solid axle (Dana 50 then Dana  60) with the same Sterling rear axles.  There's enough support among the aftermarket to help swap any of these axles into an MJ.

 

It's possible to bring the 3/4 or 1 ton steering from the donor axle to the MJ.  You can also get kits to bolt 1 ton steering parts to factory axles.

 

The MJ uses a steering gear box that was in everything from YJs to XJs to 1/2 and 3/4 ton Jeep trucks and Wagoneers so it's probably good as-is.  Though there are a few upgrades to the mounting area that you want to look into.

 

Big brake kits are available.  Heavy duty axles come with bigger stronger brakes.

 

The dual diaphragm brake booster from newer XJs is an easy upgrade.  You can get hydroboost boosters from a number of companies if you start getting into bigger brakes.

You can get stiffer springs (with overloads in the back if you want) to handle the heavier loads and hold up longer if you don't mind the stiffer ride.

 

There are a few options for unibody frame stiffeners that will reinforce the subframe in the front all the way to the back frame section.

 

The engine/transmission/transfer case is pretty well matched.  The Peugeot 5 speed manual won't hold up to a lot of abuse but the AX-15 is a good upgrade.  As long as you have gearing set up to match your tire size, you don't really need much in the way of upgraded drivetrain.  An auxiliary transmission cooler for the AW4 automatic is always a good idea.  If you do a V8 swap for more power, you'll want to bring along stronger transmission/transfer cases.

 

Strength is just a matter of money and fabrication.  How strong can you afford to make it?

Woo that's a lot of great info.  I do plan to use the Dana44 that I have already on the rear. I'm just not sure that a Dana30 (with upgraded axle shafts) is strong enough for the front. Although I do see guys with massive tires wheeling them. So maybe a really sloppy, muddy road with a load doesn't require more than an improved Dana30, especially with 33" tires or less. My ZJ's Dana30 with truetrac never had any problems with the task, but of course the cargo capacity of the ZJ even with seats folded down and stuffed with tools is far less than the payload capacity of a truck.

[EUREKA]

2 hours ago, Pete M said:

the link in my sig will have much of the info you seek   

 

the WJ arms are the same length as MJ arms but fully boxed and have a curve for tire clearance.  they are good for up to 3" of lift (or more if you go with drop brackets).

The link in your signature is a goldmine Thank you!

[Pete M]

this is another good one if you haven't seen it yet:

 

 

 

[75sv1]

I will say, I do not know what level you wound need for your intent. I do have WJ big brakes and OTK steering on my XJs. A '98 and 2000. I do have the Chevy 1-ton kit cross over steering from Ruff Stuff. OTK also. I went with Rusty's OTK Trackbar setup a few years back. There were not as many options at that point. I wanted rubber bushing for road going. I have purchased an Ironman OTK trackbar system. That will go on an '01 XJ, that will be my primary build. OK, my '88 MJ will get built Mo better. I do plan to trust up the Dana 30. On the '00 I did get K Suspension's Dirty 30's trust. An economy trust. I would get some stuff to beef up the frame around the steering box. Even with a WJ Big Brake conversion, I'd look at upper level performance brake pads. Somewhere I have a set of Black Magic pads. Wagner or is it Raybestos Thermo Quiets get good reviews, as does Hawk or EBC(???).  Wasn't there a rear D44  in the ZJ with disc brakes? 

[Pete M]

the rear ZJ 44 has an aluminum center section that's less than stellar.  BUT it had disk brakes that are used for an easy upgrade on other axles like the MJ 44   

[Isaac]

23 hours ago, Pete M said:

that's a bit of a complicated question because a ton isn't much more than normal truck can carry.  true one-ton fullsize truck can carry way more (7k#+). 

 

on one hand, to haul a ton in the bed you technically don't have to do anything aside from the usual Metric ton features (stiffer springs, stiffer shocks, better rear axle, and steel rims).  that's rated for carrying 2200 pounds right there   (assuming everything is in excellent condition of course).  

 

on the other hand, there's no legal way to carry that much if your truck was rated for the lesser amount.  max weight from the factory is max weight for life.  the law and your insurance company don't care if you've improved everything little thing. 

 

on the other-other hand, we all like upgrades and better performance!   so there's a ton (pun intended) of the usual you can do including: better gear ratio and the dual brake booster (tops of my list), plus later model (aka bigger) ujoints/shafts in the front axle, the WJ brake conversion with hi-steer arms, v8 ZJ steering bits for tougher stock steering, disk brake conversion on whatever axle you pick for the rear, WJ control arms, and a big fat trans cooler if you have an auto. 

 

the internal upgrades to the t-case are super cool, but won't really help much when hauling 2200 pounds as you won't very likely be using 4wd at the same time.  or if you are, it's for a super short time trying to get off of the wet gravel next to the pavement.  The stock t-case is already rated for such a thing.  but on the other-other-other hand, I've been planning on the same upgrades for my wheeler.  

Do you have a bench seat? That you’ll be willing to sell?

[Pete M]

15 minutes ago, Isaac said:

Do you have a bench seat? That you’ll be willing to sell?

 

I only have the one and no, it's not for sale. 

 

once you have 10 total posts the classifieds will open up to you.   please don't spam the rest of the forums with wanted ads. 

[75sv1]

2 hours ago, Pete M said:

the rear ZJ 44 has an aluminum center section that's less than stellar.  BUT it had disk brakes that are used for an easy upgrade on other axles like the MJ 44   

Yes, that was my intent. Good call as not to go down a rabbit hole.  I'm not sure the Ford 8.8 stuff is the same. 

Here's a link to the Black Magic Stuff:

https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/VANCO-Big-Brake-Kits-15-16-Super-16-and-17_c84.htm

 

Cobra Marty Stuff:

  https://jeepm62superchargerkit.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html

 

WJ Big Brake:

https://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1094759

Note: I didn't go over the whole thread. The first post or so, seem good as an upgraded over all system. I think I posted last. 

Presently, I am on WJ rotor and hubs, with WJ or JK rims. And NAPA mid grade pads. 

[EUREKA]

On 8/25/2020 at 5:06 PM, Pete M said:

this is another good one if you haven't seen it yet:

 

 

 

 

Awesome. I have a lot of reading to do.

[EUREKA]

22 hours ago, Pete M said:

the rear ZJ 44 has an aluminum center section that's less than stellar.  BUT it had disk brakes that are used for an easy upgrade on other axles like the MJ 44   

 

I was aware of the aluminum center section Dana44 from some V8 ZJ's, I didnt even think about that for upgrading the brakes on my MJ's Dana44.
Unfortunately I live in a VERY rural area. There is only one auto wrecker in a radius of hundreds of miles. I think I'll see what they have in stock for ZJ's.

[EUREKA]

19 hours ago, 75sv1 said:

Yes, that was my intent. Good call as not to go down a rabbit hole.  I'm not sure the Ford 8.8 stuff is the same. 

Here's a link to the Black Magic Stuff:

https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/VANCO-Big-Brake-Kits-15-16-Super-16-and-17_c84.htm

 

Cobra Marty Stuff:

  https://jeepm62superchargerkit.blogspot.com/p/blog-page.html

 

WJ Big Brake:

https://naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=1094759

Note: I didn't go over the whole thread. The first post or so, seem good as an upgraded over all system. I think I posted last. 

Presently, I am on WJ rotor and hubs, with WJ or JK rims. And NAPA mid grade pads. 

I was excited to see the Dana44 kit from Black Magic,
https://www.shop.blackmagicbrakes.com/Dana-44-Rear-Disc-Brake-Conversion-Kit-w-Set-10-Bearing-Parts-Dana-44-Rear-Disc-Conv-w-Beaings.htm

 

But the description says that it does not work on the XJ Dana44.

 

As of now I'm thinking the WJ big brake and steering upgrade is for me for the front axle.

 

[Sir Sam]

I have the WJ big brakes on a HP D30 in my 00MJ, with cut down WJ steering arms. I would also consider doing 1 ton TREs for steering as well. But skipped it for now since parts availability isn’t great these days. The WJ steering and TREs is quite a bit beefier than XJ.

 

In short for WJ brake swap you need;

 WJ rotors redrilled to 5x4.5,
WJ knuckles,

WJ brake caliper bracket,

WJ brake calipers,

WJ pads,

JKS weld on unit bearing spacer,

00+ XJ/TJ unit bearings, 

 

modified sway bar link bracket to clear upper tre to steering box linkage. 
 

custom made steering bars or JKS steering bars

 

or: modified WJ stock steering(narrowed)

 

I left my stock track bar and stabilizer/dampener, I was able to use all the WJ clamps which including the one for the dampner 

 

my angles for track bar VS steering are not ideal, but drive ability doesn’t seem to be affected by them. Still custom track bar brackets at both the frame and axle, along with an adjustable track bar, would be more ideal. 

 

1 ton steering could also be a nice upgrade

[Pete M]

do a quick google search for flexible aluminum tierod.     

[EUREKA]

38 minutes ago, Sir Sam said:

I have the WJ big brakes on a HP D30 in my 00MJ, with cut down WJ steering arms. I would also consider doing 1 ton TREs for steering as well. But skipped it for now since parts availability isn’t great these days. The WJ steering and TREs is quite a bit beefier than XJ.

 

In short for WJ brake swap you need;

 WJ rotors redrilled to 5x4.5,
WJ knuckles,

WJ brake caliper bracket,

WJ brake calipers,

WJ pads,

JKS weld on unit bearing spacer,

00+ XJ/TJ unit bearings, 

 

modified sway bar link bracket to clear upper tre to steering box linkage. 
 

custom made steering bars or JKS steering bars

 

or: modified WJ stock steering(narrowed)

 

I left my stock track bar and stabilizer/dampener, I was able to use all the WJ clamps which including the one for the dampner 

 

my angles for track bar VS steering are not ideal, but drive ability doesn’t seem to be affected by them. Still custom track bar brackets at both the frame and axle, along with an adjustable track bar, would be more ideal. 

 

1 ton steering could also be a nice upgrade

Thanks for the parts list and info.

What tie-rod ends would you have use, if they were available?

[Big_Mark]

Dana 60s front and rear, Dana 300 T-case, T-18 transmission go big if your going to go big 

[Sir Sam]

19 minutes ago, EUREKA said:

Thanks for the parts list and info.

What tie-rod ends would you have use, if they were available?

I used stock WJ setup with new mood TREs

 

the 1 ton Chevy TREs are the gold standard for heavy duty stuff, but are not always an off the shelf part. Check out rough stuff to see the TRE kits. You would need two kits, one for the crossover and one for the panhard bar with a high angle TRE at the pitman arm. Then to use them you need a reamer to change the taper. You can leave them under the knuckle and Rteam them, or you can go over the knuckle and ream them if you want the little extra clearance or want the angles nicer on the panhard bar, but that comes down to a lift amount. 
 

 

[EUREKA]

13 minutes ago, Big_Mark said:

Dana 60s front and rear, Dana 300 T-case, T-18 transmission go big if your going to go big 

 

lol, why not a Dana 80? I'm concerned about the weight of dana 60's seriously affecting the handling of my truck.

A Dana 300 is interesting to me, honestly so is a T-18. I'm a bit concerned about the availability of Dana 300's. I don't recall actually seeing one in person, ever.

I have no interest in a manual transmission for this truck.

[EUREKA]

6 minutes ago, Sir Sam said:

I used stock WJ setup with new mood TREs

 

the 1 ton Chevy TREs are the gold standard for heavy duty stuff, but are not always an off the shelf part. Check out rough stuff to see the TRE kits. You would need two kits, one for the crossover and one for the panhard bar with a high angle TRE at the pitman arm. Then to use them you need a reamer to change the taper. You can leave them under the knuckle and Rteam them, or you can go over the knuckle and ream them if you want the little extra clearance or want the angles nicer on the panhard bar, but that comes down to a lift amount. 
 

 

ok thanks!

[Big_Mark]

Dana 80s have huge pumpkins, 60's can be ground down a bit and are more "compact" to start with, plus more gear ratio variety :-D

 

Dana 300 T-case is the work horse of the CJ, and with a fairly easy mod can allow for twin stick gear selection, mostly useful for front dig