TajMan Posted October 20, 2007 Share Posted October 20, 2007 Couple things #1 My 87 Comanche Pioneer 4X4 has a click, usually just once sometimes twice, when you're turning the steering wheel/wheels for a left turn. Steering gear boxes-pitman arms-tie rod ends...... just some worn steering component I don't know truck steering systems. Left turn click, anyone? 1a. What can be replaced to reduce play between the steering wheel moving and wheels actually turning? #2 I believe I have a bad front wheel bearing/hub. I understand these are expensive items (like $140), and hard to remove. I want to pull one myself from a Cherokee in the pick-n-pull junk yard. Are ALL Cherokee/Comanche units the same, and what tools can I use to get an old one off in the junk yard? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whowey Posted October 20, 2007 Share Posted October 20, 2007 Couple things #1 My 87 Comanche Pioneer 4X4 has a click, usually just once sometimes twice, when you're turning the steering wheel/wheels for a left turn. Steering gear boxes-pitman arms-tie rod ends...... just some worn steering component I don't know truck steering systems. Left turn click, anyone? 1a. What can be replaced to reduce play between the steering wheel moving and wheels actually turning? #2 I believe I have a bad front wheel bearing/hub. I understand these are expensive items (like $140), and hard to remove. I want to pull one myself from a Cherokee in the pick-n-pull junk yard. Are ALL Cherokee/Comanche units the same, and what tools can I use to get an old one off in the junk yard? Are they all the same... No. Ealry models 85-89 use a different hub than the later models. There may be another break, but I know this one from switching from my 88 to 90 wheeling Jeep. Tools needed to remove a unit hub: 13mm 12 point wrench or socket. 36 mm hub nut socket. Brake caliper removal tools. (on my 88's, its a 7mm allen wrench, on my 90 its a 8mm 12 point wrench or socket.) BFH and a chisel(you will need to drive the chisel down between the hub base and face of the knuckle to pop the hub loose. Have a couple of Mountain Dew's and a bowl of Wheaties cause its not a fun job if its never been off. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted October 20, 2007 Share Posted October 20, 2007 but I prefer to use a slide hammer to break loose the wheel bearing from the donor vehicle. Less chance of damaging the wheel bearing. Also beware some of the early XJ/MJ's have serviceable bearings, which are different from unit bearings Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TajMan Posted October 20, 2007 Author Share Posted October 20, 2007 Hmmm Or Autozone Valucraft units for $71 (90 day warranty vs. $145 for 1 year warranty part) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted October 20, 2007 Share Posted October 20, 2007 Depending on the quality of the wheel bearings, the size of your tires and the off set on your rims the 1 YR warranty sounds better. I fragged 2 wheel bearings on Pong in 1 month.. this was on 35's. Yeah it was a long month.. Did the VA annual run and Paragon 2 weeks apart. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
whowey Posted October 20, 2007 Share Posted October 20, 2007 :yeah that: but I prefer to use a slide hammer to break loose the wheel bearing from the donor vehicle. Less chance of damaging the wheel bearing. Also beware some of the early XJ/MJ's have serviceable bearings, which are different from unit bearings I've never come close to damaging a wheel bearing with the chisel method. Lay the chisel along the knuckle where the ears for the bolts are, and give it hell. I just removed one friday, and put it back on today. (my son disappeared with the U-joint on me) IIRC the ones with the seviceable bearings were they VERY early ones with the CV shafts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TNT Posted October 21, 2007 Share Posted October 21, 2007 The easiest way is to use a spare set of bolts. First remove the axle nut and the hub bolts. Then tread the spare bolts in half way and drive the bearing out by alternating hitting each bolt with a hammer. Once the bolts bottom out unscrew the bolts slightly and all it will take is a couple of light blows to get it the rest of the way out. If you chose to use a slide hammer make sure you leave the outer shaft nut tight until the hub/unit bearing is out. If you don't you'll risk pulling the outer hub out of the bearing and damaging it. I don't recommend using a chisel as the spindle and/or hub and heat shield are easily damaged. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted October 21, 2007 Share Posted October 21, 2007 if you're replacing the hub check napa, IIRC my brother paid 70$ for one last week. and a really really worn out hub will allow the wheels some slop when turning, so that'll tighten things up a little if its truly bad. other than that, i'd try once-overing all the bolts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pingpong Posted October 21, 2007 Share Posted October 21, 2007 I should have put in the fact that you leave the hub nut in place. I had an 85 XJ the serviceable bearings and it did not have cv shafts. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TajMan Posted October 21, 2007 Author Share Posted October 21, 2007 NAPA's part is $145, Checker expensive too Looks like I'll prob get a Valucraft part for $71 I've got stock suspension/wheels for now, I realize big offset wheels/lift can cause them to wear excessively. (BTW I think they went bad with vehicle sitting in the same spot for 2 years) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TajMan Posted October 23, 2007 Author Share Posted October 23, 2007 Autozone part ordered, coming in tomorrow. The noise has gotten worse and I'm more worried about driving the truck a long way to work tomorrow.. (part comes so I could fix after work) I can't believe there's not an easily identified worn part to diagnose front steering play / click when turning. I'm pretty certain its not just some loose bolt. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TajMan Posted October 27, 2007 Author Share Posted October 27, 2007 UPDATE** new / still issue With front wheels jacked up, you could easily tell the passenger's wheel was the one with prob. Replaced pass. hub/bearing. 3 bolts tight and axle nut tight on new unit. When you turn the wheel bolts by hand, you can still distinctly hear the clanking problem. It is not the wheel bearing but is coming directly from inside that area, like axle/other turning part the hub bolts on to. Hear is a phone video clip, can hear sound fine!: Can anyone tell me what my problem is, can I get axle/etc from junk yard to fix. It would really be best for me if I could get it fixed tomorrow (sat 27th) I'll be watching this. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oizarod115 Posted October 27, 2007 Share Posted October 27, 2007 sounds like a bad axleshaft u-joint... do the joints in the axleshafts have any play in them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Geonovast Posted October 27, 2007 Share Posted October 27, 2007 I'm having that same problem It didnt start right away, but after I got that 94 D30 on my truck, now it's making a clicking sound when I turn to the left. I know the pass wheel bearing has some play, but I could also blame it on that the CA hardware I used is slightly smaller than stock. (Stock was metric, I used SAE grade 8 bolts) So I'm gonna pop the original hardware back in and see if it works. Otherwise hopefully it'll go away when I change the bearing. There's no play in the axleshafts or joints, so I don't think it's that. Are they all the same... No.Ealry models 85-89 use a different hub than the later models. There may be another break, but I know this one from switching from my 88 to 90 wheeling Jeep. So I can't use a bearing from my 88 D30 on my 94? Well $#!&. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TajMan Posted October 27, 2007 Author Share Posted October 27, 2007 U-joint definite problem I have a new U-joint here to replace it now, anyone have a link for how-to guide? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Eagle Posted October 27, 2007 Share Posted October 27, 2007 sounds like a bad axleshaft u-joint... do the joints in the axleshafts have any play in them? x2 -- Axle shaft u-joint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TajMan Posted October 27, 2007 Author Share Posted October 27, 2007 Yes thank you, right it was really bad, and I said I have a new U-joint to replace now. Anyone have a how-to link on replacing, I can't get those little clips off for starters. Hard on a old rusted axle shaft? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ejndssn Posted October 27, 2007 Share Posted October 27, 2007 good time to have pic's of the progress when the job gets done for before and after. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TajMan Posted October 27, 2007 Author Share Posted October 27, 2007 I'll have good before and after pics of body for my paint job. Right now I'm working on U-joint, no idea how to get it out Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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