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Ol' Blue


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Was able to get the list down to just having to put the sway bar back on and finish the axle disconnect. I have a one piece axle to put in.

The bumper showed up, it is the same as on my Cherokee. I have towed the Cherokee behind the RV to FL, GA, TN, GA, NC, SC, MD and NJ to go wheeling in the pine barrens.

The MJ and XJ are both setup to the tow the other home when needed. 

One old Jeep needs another to tow it home.

 

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The Rough Country sway bar disconnects are on. It looks backwards to me but for now is good. I looked at the color instructions on their website but that looks how they are showing it. I will wait to put the hanger on till I look at my neighbor's. See which side the top mount is supposed to go.

Now to get this axle apart.

 

 

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Glad I saved the front axle for last. Having more then a little trouble getting some of it apart. The nut wouldn't come off the driver's side but came out whole. Broke a breaker bar with my over grown extension. Tried the 1/2 impact didn't move.

Passenger side came out a little better. But I am going to have to get a new hub for it. The bolts weren't factory so it was off at some point.

The seal press I purchased isn't the right size, but think I can use it with a socket that is the right size.

 

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On 1/17/2022 at 4:25 PM, Geek said:

Glad I saved the front axle for last. Having more then a little trouble getting some of it apart. The nut wouldn't come off the driver's side but came out whole. Broke a breaker bar with my over grown extension. Tried the 1/2 impact didn't move.

Passenger side came out a little better. But I am going to have to get a new hub for it. The bolts weren't factory so it was off at some point.

The seal press I purchased isn't the right size, but think I can use it with a socket that is the right size.

 

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PXL_20220117_203844449.jpg

PXL_20220117_230530631.jpg

PXL_20220117_223418246.MP.jpg

PXL_20220117_205940901.MP.jpg

PXL_20220117_203338010.MP.jpg

What axle will replace the CAD axle. That’s going to be my next project. 

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2 minutes ago, 1989commanche said:

What axle will replace the CAD axle. That’s going to be my next project. 

91 and up d30. Id look for a 95-98 xj d30 as it will not have the cad, being high pinion yet but with bigger axle u joints as well. Which you could also install just the shafts in your current cad housing as would just install a inner seal in the pumpkin. 

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After a few days of fighting this axle, I go to bleed the brakes and the drain screws are rusted shut. So it is a brake rebuild today and if nothing else comes up Monday bi can call to setup an appointment for alignment and inspection. Then get this back to a running project again.

 

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Finished up the front brake job, the back brake wouldn't bleed so replace the wheel cylinders. Started it up and had a fuel injector leak, so 6 new fuel injectors. Some cheap 746 knock offs for now. Also, hooked up a license plate light and fixed the headlight switch in the dash from flopping around. Used a washer and ground it down a little.

Now hopefully off for alignment and inspection. Maybe next week I can legally drive it on the road.

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As the saga for getting brakes working again, had some other parts show up. Still waiting on the YJ proportioning valve. Rear brakes still don't bleed.

So the headlights and relay are here. Also shift linkage for the transfer case.

 

 

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On 2/9/2022 at 9:55 PM, Pete M said:

are you bleeding them in the special MJ-specific way?

 

I haven't seen a special way to bleed them. I just start closest and then work out.

 

I did get the YJ proportioning valve today. Going to work on it tonight. It is supposed to reduce the rear 20%. Since the load sensing was removed.

 

 

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On 2/11/2022 at 6:13 PM, Pete M said:

the factory method must be followed or else it can never bleed any air that might be in the emergency line running to the rear prop valve.  the link in my signature will have it. :L: 

Thank you for the tip. I put the new valve in and the brakes bleed easy. Seems there is a leak that I have to find, but there is brakes again.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Finally have brakes, in the end I replaced everything. Went with the dual diagram.

I cross referenced the brake switch Cruiser posted from NAPA with the AutoZone part, DR497. Unfortunately I don't have a napa around with hours I can get there. 

I used some M12 and M10 master cylinder adapters to 3/8 flared for the connections to the proportioning valve.

I think I have to say I work part time at AutoZone. So yes I do use a bunch of their parts.

 

 

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