Headlights, running lights, and taillights

[Zander.gil]

For some reason only my headlights are working. Tail lights, running lights, And brake lights aren’t working. Any ideas?

Edit: Headlamp bulbs and turn signals work, everything else does not.

[jdog]

ymt?

have you checked you fuse box?

have you checked your headlight switch?

Welcome

Post vehicle info and you'll get a little more detailed response

 

[Ωhm]

Is problem rear end only? Yr? Eng? Trans?

[Zander.gil]

4 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

Is problem rear end only? Yr? Eng? Trans?

It’s an 88’ Comanche, 4.0

Front running lights aren’t working, nor taillights, Just the headlamp bulbs

[Zander.gil]

Just now, Zander.gil said:

It’s an 88’ Comanche, 4.0

Front running lights aren’t working, nor taillights, Just the headlamp bulbs

Automatic 

[Zander.gil]

10 minutes ago, jdog said:

ymt?

have you checked you fuse box?

have you checked your headlight switch?

Welcome

Post vehicle info and you'll get a little more detailed response

 

It’s an 88’ Comanche, 4.0

I have checked the fuse panel under the dash, haven’t checked the headlight switch. It’s both front and rear end. Only the headlamp bulbs luminate, every other exterior light there’s nothing.

[jdog]

lets start with what have you done so far?

[89 MJ]

Maybe try cleaning grounds and connections. 

[Ωhm]

Do any Interior lights work?

[Zander.gil]

28 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

Do any Interior lights work?

None of my interior lights are working either

[Zander.gil]

30 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

Do any Interior lights work?

Ok so my park lamp fuse was blown, however some of my interior lights still haven’t been working.

[jdog]

Which ones, seems a little strange that only some work

[cruiser54]

If it were mine, I would do the following first. BTW, did you know the interior lights rotate up and down?

 

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS

RENIX GROUND REFRESHING

OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 46 COMMENTS EDIT

 

The Renix era XJs and MJs were built with an under-engineered grounding system for the engine/transmission electronics. One problem in particular involves the multiple ground connection at the engine dipstick tube stud. A poor ground here can cause a multitude of driveabililty issues, wasted time, failed emission tests, and wasted money replacing components unnecessarily.

All the components listed below ground at the dipstick tube stud:

Distributor Sync Sensor, TCU main ground, TCU “Shift Point Logic”, Ignition Control Module, Fuel Injectors, ECU main ground (which other engine sensors ground through, including the Oxygen sensor, Knock Sensor, Cruise Control and Transmission Sync signal. All extremely important stuff.

The factory was aware of the issues with this ground point and addressed it by suggesting the following:

• Remove the nut holding the wire terminals to the stud. Verify that the stud is indeed tightened securely into the block. If the whole stud turns, you can use a 7/32″ six point socket or wrench to hold it so the nut can be removed. Worst case, cut the wires and remove the stud and nut. Install new terminal eyelets on the wires when going back together.  Scrape any and all paint from the stud’s mounting surface where the wires will attach. Surfaces must be clean, shiny and free of any oil, grease, or paint.
• Inspect the wire terminals. Check to see that none of the terminals are crimped over wire insulation instead of bare wire. Be sure the crimps are tight. It wouldn’t hurt to re-crimp them just as a matter of course. Sand and polish the wire terminals until clean and shiny on both sides. Apply a liberal coating of OxGard, which is available at Lowe’s and other stores. Reinstall all the wires to the stud and tighten the nut down securely.

While you’re in that general area, locate the battery negative cable which is fastened to the engine block just forward of the dipstick stud. Remove the bolt, scrape the block to bare metal, clean and polish the cable terminal, apply OxGard, and reattach securely.

Another area where the grounding system on Renix era Jeeps was lacking is the engine to chassis ground. There is a braided cable from the back of the cylinder head that also attaches to the driver’s side of the firewall. This cable is undersized for its intended use and subject to corrosion and poor connections at each end.

• Remove the cable end from the firewall using a 15mm wrench or socket. Scrape the paint off down to bare metal and clean the wire terminal. Apply OxGard. Reattach securely.
• Remove the other end of the cable from the rear of the head using a 3’4″ socket. Clean all the oil, paint and crud from the stud. Clean the wire terminal of the cable and reattach securely with a liberal coating of OxGard.

2 STRONG suggestions regarding the ground system:

I prefer to add a #4 gauge cable from the firewall to a bolt on the rear of the intake manifold, either to a heat shield bolt or fuel rail bolt. A cable about 18″ long with a 3/8″ lug on each end works great and you can get one at any parts store already made up. NAPA has them as part number 781116.

A further improvement to the grounding system can be made using a #4 cable, about 10″ long with 3/8″ terminals at each end. Attach one end of this cable to the negative battery bolt and the other end under the closest 10mm headed bolt on the radiator support just forward of the battery. NAPA part number 781115.

For those of us with Comanches, it’s very important to remove the driver’s side tail lamp assembly to access the ground for the fuel pump. Remove the screw holding the black ground wire. Scrape the paint from the body and corrosion from the wire terminal.  Add a 10 gauge wire, with an eyelet on each end, from that grounding point to a bolt on the frame. Better yet, on both Cherokees and Comanches, complete Tip 29 for the best fuel pump grounding. Be sure to scrape all mounting points to bare metal and apply OxGard also.

If you want to upgrade your ground and battery cables with custom made parts, contact Neal at www.meanlemons.com 

[cruiser54]

CRUISER'S MOSTLY RENIX TIPS

CONNECTOR AND RELAY/RECEPTACLE REFRESHING

OCTOBER 30, 2015 SALAD 24 COMMENTS EDIT

 

I suggest unplugging EVERY electrical connection in the engine bay you can find, whether engine related or not, and spraying it out with a good electronics cleaner, visually inspecting the terminals making sure they haven’t retracted into the plastic holder, and then plugging it back together.

There’s a critical 10-pin connector for the front lighting system located in front of the air cleaner and behind the left headlight assembly. Don’t miss that one. Also be sure that the connectors to the ballast resistor mounted near the air cleaner housing are clean and tight.

ALL of the relays should be removed, the terminals wire-brushed until shiny, and the receptacles sprayed out with contact cleaner. Then plug them back in. I do this on every Renix Jeep I purchase or work on for someone else.

Revised 1-31-2016

[Ωhm]

15 hours ago, Zander.gil said:

Ok so my park lamp fuse was blown,

I'll take that to mean you got your PARK lamps (running lights) back.

 

The common area to your symptoms is at the fuse box. The busbar that feed three (3) of the fuses. Since your headlamps work assume FL_J is good.

 

[Liketosmash]

On 5/10/2020 at 9:50 AM, cruiser54 said:

BTW, did you know the interior lights rotate up and down?

If only I knew this before I took them all apart to see what was wrong with them. Flip them one way they are always on, flip them the other way and they come on with the doors.  In the middle they are always off.