Ωhm Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 34 minutes ago, SoCalManche said: I got lucky and found someone on Craigslist selling a new-in-box timing light for $20 and just picked it up. This test would still help, yes? Timing Lights are pretty obsolete now. I didn't mean for you to go buy one. Money could've went towards another part for your truck. I've just read somewhere that a timing light can help see injector (TBI) spray patterns and I could kinda see what they were saying. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 26 minutes ago, Ωhm said: Timing Lights are pretty obsolete now. I didn't mean for you to go buy one. Money could've went towards another part for your truck. I've just read somewhere that a timing light can help see injector (TBI) spray patterns and I could kinda see what they were saying. Eh, it was $20. I'm not worried about it, plus my curiosity got the better of me, as I wish to see what the spray pattern looks like, regardless of how meager it may be. I'll do the test after I eat right quick. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 So, I think I'm doing it wrong, but showing the video anyways to show how the truck is trying to FIRE currently. https://drive.google.com/open?id=15-wh0Z2GJd46WUmrZdA3xF2WGzvzWr7X Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 I will say this. We are hell of a lot farther than what we were. Almost seems like the injector is trying to spray. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 Just now, eaglescout526 said: I will say this. We are hell of a lot farther than what we were. Almost seems like the injector is trying to spray. Yes, this is the most action I've seen out of her in a year. Lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Question is. Do we suspect the fuel pump at fault? Or the injector? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 I think I may add a ground from dipstick to the close 10mm bolt. I believe I saw Cruiser mention that on this forum somewhere. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Unless the injector is dirty. Not sure how much of a difference but the more grounds the better. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 3 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said: Unless the injector is dirty. Not sure how much of a difference but the more grounds the better. I feel like that is the only thing left at this point? I mean, resistance is good on injector and voltage is there for harness. The only other weird thing is the voltage at FP connector being drastically low, even though it seems to prime now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Makes me wonder if we wiggled something. But yes the voltage at the FP is still odd. Thankfully you don't have to adjust the pressure regulator. Not fun nor easy to remove the throttle body. I mean bad things can still show good resistance, my guess is resistance was the common sign of a bad injector. Well we can keep trying to see if we can get better voltage to the FP and then go from there. But I am happy to see the engine wants to fire without fuel down the TB. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 4 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said: Makes me wonder if we wiggled something. But yes the voltage at the FP is still odd. Thankfully you don't have to adjust the pressure regulator. Not fun nor easy to remove the throttle body. I mean bad things can still show good resistance, my guess is resistance was the common sign of a bad injector. Well we can keep trying to see if we can get better voltage to the FP and then go from there. But I am happy to see the engine wants to fire without fuel down the TB. What else could be done to better the voltage at FP? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Well the wiring for the fuel pump from the relay goes right through the bulk head under the booster and clutch master. So unless the tar in there is creating resistance, then the FP or splice "N" is also causing an issue. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 2 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said: Well the wiring for the fuel pump from the relay goes right through the bulk head under the booster and clutch master. So unless the tar in there is creating resistance, then the FP or splice "N" is also causing an issue. I have a block looking connection under the brake booster. Is that what you are referring too? Kind of looks like a miniature C101 connector. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Yes that should be it. Close to the infamous C101(which 86 never got) but this is where most if not all the wiring for the front end comes to meet for fuses and such. A pink W/tracer wire comes out of that block on the interior side and follows the inside rocker panel to the floor plug that pops out of the bottom of the floor pan to the fuel tank. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 Just now, eaglescout526 said: Yes that should be it. Close to the infamous C101(which 86 never got) but this is where most if not all the wiring for the front end comes to meet for fuses and such. I tried disconnecting that a while back and it's pretty difficult. I'll take a stab at it again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Its held on by a small bolt probably around 1/4" or so. It is not an easy one to separate, but supposedly it is full of tar like the C101 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 7, 2020 Author Share Posted May 7, 2020 18 minutes ago, eaglescout526 said: Its held on by a small bolt probably around 1/4" or so. It is not an easy one to separate, but supposedly it is full of tar like the C101 Gah, okay. I'll have to go get an extension for my baby ratchet to snug itself in there. I'll report back later tonight with pictures of what I find. Probably be around 8pm (PST) or so. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 No worries. No time rush here. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 Watched that video. Man its trying to START. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustEmptyEveryPocket Posted May 7, 2020 Share Posted May 7, 2020 I don't have any pertinent to add to this discussion. Eaglescout526 and Ohm seem to be steering you right. Just wanted to say that I am damned impressed with your willingness to stick to it, reply with good questions and good information, and keep a positive attitude for it. You are learning a bunch that will help you out with this truck. Don't give up on it. Keep the great attitude and go get up style and that truck will be working again in short order. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 5 hours ago, JustEmptyEveryPocket said: I don't have any pertinent to add to this discussion. Eaglescout526 and Ohm seem to be steering you right. Just wanted to say that I am damned impressed with your willingness to stick to it, reply with good questions and good information, and keep a positive attitude for it. You are learning a bunch that will help you out with this truck. Don't give up on it. Keep the great attitude and go get up style and that truck will be working again in short order. Haha, thanks man. I'm on the edge of my seat because we're really close. But yes, I should be (and am) thanking eaglescout526 and Ωhm . They've been the help I've needed to knock this out. Cheers to them! I feel kind of weird that it's 19 pages long, but I want it all documented instead of private messages so that it's out there for anyone else that may have similar issues. I try to round up as much info in my messages as I can. 5 hours ago, eaglescout526 said: No worries. No time rush here. Alright, I burned myself out playing a small game of park soccer, so first thing in the morning I'll be dropping a picture of the inside of that large block connector. Have a good night, guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 1 minute ago, SoCalManche said: Alright, I burned myself out playing a small game of park soccer, so first thing in the morning I'll be dropping a picture of the inside of that large block connector. Have a good night, guys! Sounds like what you needed to get away from this mess. If the block is still disconnected, I would try to find the orange wire and probe it for voltage just to see if the drop is between there and the relay. You do the same! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ωhm Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 I hate to spend more of your money, but can you look into buying a simple 12vdc testlight? When I say simple, I mean something with no battery in it, just a probe, bulb and wire w/clip. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JustEmptyEveryPocket Posted May 8, 2020 Share Posted May 8, 2020 33 minutes ago, Ωhm said: just a probe, bulb and wire w/clip. For cheap I recommend you build your own. Find a spare truck bulb (I used one of the small interior light bults), solder a wire to each end of the bulb about 24" long, strip each far end, and tin them up. Then you can use it just like a regular testlight. Except it is free and made from junk parts. I used mine for many years before finding a good testlight at an auction. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SoCalManche Posted May 8, 2020 Author Share Posted May 8, 2020 41 minutes ago, Ωhm said: I hate to spend more of your money, but can you look into buying a simple 12vdc testlight? When I say simple, I mean something with no battery in it, just a probe, bulb and wire w/clip. Honestly man, with owning an MJ and TJ, I like to have more tools than not because I'm sure to need them later anyways with how much I tinker. Will this work? https://www.autozone.com/test-scan-and-specialty-tools/circuit-tester/surebilt-6-volt-and-12-volt-pocket-size-circuit-tester/532119_0_0?spps.s=5667&cmpid=LIA:US:EN:AD:NL:1000000:ELC:71700000060662503&gclid=Cj0KCQjwhtT1BRCiARIsAGlY51KlUnGV_IWuC9llgXFvI8ym9KRlTLAKp8mA1QtBBrh64PEHby6ehlgaAirqEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds 6 minutes ago, JustEmptyEveryPocket said: For cheap I recommend you build your own. Find a spare truck bulb (I used one of the small interior light bults), solder a wire to each end of the bulb about 24" long, strip each far end, and tin them up. Then you can use it just like a regular testlight. Except it is free and made from junk parts. I used mine for many years before finding a good testlight at an auction. That's some good info to know for future encounters! I just started soldering stuff, so that entices me! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Create an account or sign in to comment
You need to be a member in order to leave a comment
Create an account
Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!
Register a new accountSign in
Already have an account? Sign in here.
Sign In Now