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Posted
10 hours ago, eaglescout526 said:

Sounds like what you needed to get away from this mess. If the block is still disconnected, I would try to find the orange wire and probe it for voltage just to see if the drop is between there and the relay. 

 

You do the same!

Here's that deliciously, tar-y connector!

 

I'll have to do some sifting to find the fuel pump relay wire connection. It doesn't list which connection it is based on the image?

 

UPDATE: I found the one orange and black wire coming into the connector. It is fed from the harness that goes through the front bumper? Anyways, everything is so compact going into the connector that you can't visible see what connects to what.

IMG_20200508_075608.jpg

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Posted
5 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

That's the little one (pocket size), but it should work just fine for your needs.

Yeah, I can definitely go snag one right quick.

Posted

Testlight language.
BL:  Brightly Lit.
DL:  Dimly Lit.
NL:  No Lit.

 

HOT AT ALL TIMES:  Remove relay, FP relay (30). D1_5. Ground at Engine Block (back of head connection). RED wire testing.
KEY ON:  Remove relay, FP relay (86), D1_2. Same ground location. YEL wire testing.
Lets see what these results are.
 

Posted
23 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

Testlight language.
BL:  Brightly Lit.
DL:  Dimly Lit.
NL:  No Lit.

 

HOT AT ALL TIMES:  Remove relay, FP relay (30). D1_5. Ground at Engine Block (back of head connection). RED wire testing.
KEY ON:  Remove relay, FP relay (86), D1_2. Same ground location. YEL wire testing.
Lets see what these results are.
 

This is with relay removed entire time:

Pin 30: NL; all other pins BL.

D1_5:NL.

Block ground:BL.

 

KEY ON and relay removed entire time:

Pin 86:NL; only pin 87 BL.

D1_2:NL.

Block ground:BL.

 

 

 

Posted
33 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

Ground at Engine Block (back of head connection).

Here I meant connect the clipped lead of the testlight.

Posted
1 minute ago, Ωhm said:

Here I meant connect the clipped lead of the testlight.

I did connect it. Connect to Batt Pos post, yes?

 

Yes, color code confirmed on what I tested.

Posted

No. Battery post not involved with this, yet. Clip the TL clip to Engine Block (back of head). Then probe those pins.

Posted
2 minutes ago, Ωhm said:

No. Battery post not involved with this, yet. Clip the clip to Engine Block (back of head). Then probe those pins.

Ohhhhhh, gotcha. My bad. I totally misread what you said.

 

30: BL.

D1_5:BL.

 

Key ON:

86:BL.

D1_2:BL.

 

 

Posted

This little guy is pretty small, but each light that has popped on seems strong and what I would say is considered "bright" for its size. No flickering or anything.

Posted

RED & YEL wires show good. ORG wire time. With FP relay still removed, install jumper wire between FP relay pins 30 & 87. No need for KEY ON, circuit will be HOT. Maintain same ground with TL.

Probe the following:

D1_6

Fuel Injector disconnected (ORG wire)

EGR Solenoid disconnected (ORG wire)

Posted
16 minutes ago, SoCalManche said:

Ohhhhhh, gotcha. My bad. I totally misread what you said.

Just because I completely understand what I say, doesn't mean others do.:laugh:

Posted
1 minute ago, Ωhm said:

Fuel Injector disconnected (ORG wire)

EGR Solenoid disconnected (ORG wire)

Sorry, I'm not following here. You want me to disconnect those two?

 

Jumper (30 & 87) and everything connected: D1_6 = BL.

Posted
1 minute ago, Ωhm said:

Disconnect or just backprobe them if you can.

I'll just disconnect.

 

Injector(ORG wire): BL.

I do not have an ORG wire for EGR solenoid. I have YEL and BLK. I double checked all connections too, and it's connector is the only one that will fit. Others are opposite fit. EGR side has two-pin female connector with male connection pins; the other two-pin male connectors besides the YEL and BLK connector are with female connection pins. Make sense?

Posted

While we're still under the hood it battery positive time. Connect TL clip to battery positive post. I'm using the 87 Electrical Manual. Probe the following:

D1_3

D2_7

Touch firewall metal

Touch engine block

Posted
Just now, Ωhm said:

While we're still under the hood it battery positive time. Connect TL clip to battery positive post. I'm using the 87 Electrical Manual. Probe the following:

D1_3

D2_7

Touch firewall metal

Touch engine block

D1_3:BL.
D2_7:BL.

FW:BL on bare metal.

EB:BL.

Posted

That leave us with testing at the fuel pump motor, disconnected, harness side. You'll need to use the FP relay jumper for this. Connect TL between C139_A and C139_C. TL polarity doesn't matter here, it just a bulb. With jumper in place, note reading.

298383561_C139BodytoFuelTank.jpg.c44a7c266f8e4ddaaa9b99aa9fe89eaa.jpg

 

Posted

Just for clarification, you are saying jumper (A) and (C) on the fuel pump harness disconnected, correct?

 

Where am I supposed to clip down the TL? Nearest ground? I know you said polarity doesn't matter, but I'm confused as to where to clip it.

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