BeatCJ Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 So, I have had my 1981 CJ-5 torn down forever. The 4.2 was clapped out, so I started 4.0 HO OBD1 swap. Then we bought a house, and what was supposed to be shop got turned into a barn, I brought a tub, started rust repair... Anyway, I have always wanted a Comanche, have had several Cherokees, have a 1990 I am putting back together for my youngest son right now. I have been looking for a while, I saw one quite a ways away go up on Craigslist a couple of months ago. Price was a little high for a 4 hour drive. And it stayed up. It looked really clean, but it didn't run and needs brake work. And it's 2wd, and it's the snowy season. So, the price drops a little, and I need to head that way on a business trip in the next month. So I kept watching. And the week before I'm heading that way, the price drops again. So I set up a meet, agreed to 20 percent less than he was asking so bought it. Scheduled to come back the following weekend with my car trailer. And, one of my employees called in sick, I had to cover for him, so there goes my trip. I had be on call, have to be in my district. So, reschedule. And, then a spring snowstorm shows up, and it just seemed stupid to me to drive in the snow 350 miles round trip. So we rescheduled. Again. Finally, everything lines up, and it made it home last night. I started messing around today. First thing is figuring out if it really is a no fuel issue. When I looked at it, tye PO had a battery set in place, and told me there was a problem with the cables, they were too short. It did crank, sounded just like a RENIX 4.0, no noticeable bad noises. But also, no fuel pump sounds. So this morning, after opening the stuck hood from underneath, I went to put a battery in it, and OOPS! Decided before I tried to chase the fuel issue too much I would replace both battery cables. So, that's where I sit right now. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted March 23, 2020 Author Share Posted March 23, 2020 As for plans. Add 4wd. I think I want Fulltime 4wd, so I am looking for a 242. I am waffling on lift and tire size. My original plan was spring over on an Explorer 8.8, level up the front, hack the fenders and go with 35s. But the body is in such good shape, it seems to be a crying shame to hack it up. I think I'm going to try a set of 31x10.50s and go from there. The 18 year old Michelins have to come off to make it safe for others to drive, and I'm well known as a soft touch, my son drove my pickup for 30,000 miles until he put together enough money to buy a dependable car. Seems like I always need a loaner around. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdog Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 That wire doesn't look too good, hopefully, that's the only ones Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted March 23, 2020 Author Share Posted March 23, 2020 Oh, I'm pretty sure it's not. I may be unhooking the positive battery cable when I'm not driving it for a while. The line that goes from the elbow on the top of the valve cover to the airbox rotted off, too. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jdog Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 Not sure if rotted or rodent damage almost looks like something was hungry. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted March 23, 2020 Author Share Posted March 23, 2020 No, it's just 33 years of living in the engine bay in Northern California. First thing I noted was cracks in the insulation, then it fell off in my hand in hunks. The large diameter wire to the starter solenoid was really bad, but the engine ground did it, too. The insulation on the smaller positive to the relay was not brittle, must be a slightly different chemical compound. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted April 8, 2020 Author Share Posted April 8, 2020 We have had some rain the last week or so. Vinyl floor and padding are coming out. How do I get the console loose? I have the boot off, and see a screw on the right side, on the left do I pop out the little change tray? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted April 8, 2020 Share Posted April 8, 2020 Pop off the little tray or the 4wd plate depending on which and there will be a screw there. Once removed the console will be free. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted April 8, 2020 Author Share Posted April 8, 2020 Ok, thank you. It's 2wd. I got the seat out, seat belt bolts hardly fought me at all. Little bit of grief on a couple of the nuts, but the studs are still in great shape. Other than right under the driver's feet, the rubber mat is in great shape. And I only found 2 dimes and a penny. Pretty sure the original owner/ last driver was pretty meticulous. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted April 9, 2020 Author Share Posted April 9, 2020 Hmm, I just noticed the tag last night. This may have been sitting a little longer than I had thought. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 9, 2020 Share Posted April 9, 2020 ouch. that's some old gas. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted April 9, 2020 Author Share Posted April 9, 2020 Gas tank was dry, it was drained. I suspect that may be why it probably needs a fuel pump. I hadn't finished tracing electrical faults before I realized the battery cables were rotting. I plan on working on it this weekend, build new cables, clean some plugs, see if it has fire to the pump. I am also afraid it needs something for the clutch, the pedal feels like you're stepping on a rotten plum. I hate to swap out the slave, but it will probably be a while before I find a 4wd manual with an external slave. After I get it running, I will worry about that. I can hope it just needs bled, the clutch master was empty. Pretty sure it drained out of the bottom of the bellhousing years ago, but why go borrowing trouble? I did fill it up, it doesn't seem like the fluid level has gone down, so I will just try bleeding it, first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted April 12, 2020 Author Share Posted April 12, 2020 I got my new battery cables installed, and yes, I did have power at the fuel pump plug. I popped the old one out, and the rubber line from the top of the pump to the hard lines was completely rotten. I did check, with 12 volts straight to the pump, nothing. I already purchased a new pump, so we'll see if it will fire up after I get it put together in the morning. What's the correct resistance at the fuel pump ballast? It was measuring 2 ohms. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted April 12, 2020 Share Posted April 12, 2020 tech questions should really go in the Tech forum so more eyes will see 'em. been a while since I gave that thought, but 2 sounds about right. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted April 13, 2020 Author Share Posted April 13, 2020 I replaced the fuel pump. I ended up dropping the tank, because I was fighting the lock ring. Got the tank back in, and Woot! I could hear the pump run. But then, it wouldn't pump fuel. I pulled the line off, nothing out of the pump. I could suck fuel out of a 3/8 hose that I put on the output, so it was together. One of the things I didn't like with the new pump was that polarity wasn't marked, so I assembled it physically like the old pump. I didn't test that it pumped before I assembled it. Hmmmph. So I pulled the pump out, cut the top off an empty gallon oil jug, clamped it solid, plunked the sender assembly in, added enough gas to cover, and applied power. Bubbles. So I reversed the polarity, and the quart of gas almost disappeared into the can I had the hose in. There's that @$$ U ME thing jumping up to bite me. So, I thought to myself, "I'll give it one shot to put the assembly back into the tank. Sure enough, first try! So, I tried the key again, I could hear that the pump sounded like it was under load. I worked the key about 5 times to prime the fuel rail, and walked to front to see if there was fuel at the Schrader valve, and there is fuel all over the top of the intake. Well, Darn! I guess all of the O-rings on the injectors are shot. Looks like it was leaking where the fuel pressure regulator attaches to the fuel rail, too. As dirty as the throttle body is, I think I'm just going to install new injectors before I try it again. Recommendations on where to get them? I want to go with an upgrade injector. I have gotten through 1 - 5 on Cruiser54's list, throttle body cleaning, I plan to make my way through 11 before I get injectors. I also finished taking out the floor mats, and underneath, Surprise! Almost no rust, one spot that is barely surface discoloration. I'll go after that with a Scotchbrite and then coat it. I think I will go with a spray in coating, and some floor mats, so I don't risk trapping moisture. The potato cam photos make it hard to tell, but it's really amazing to me how nice this is for a Jeep. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 Woot! It started! I swapped the old injectors because the O-rings leaked like a sieve, and low and behold, it fired right up. It actually sounds pretty good. And, the clutch slave might be OK, and just needs bled. It doesn't disengage enough to allow you to shift it into gear, but when it's started in gear, pushing the clutch in keeps it from stalling. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted April 20, 2020 Author Share Posted April 20, 2020 This morning I got my 8 year old granddaughter to help me bleed the clutch. It was a (Metric)ton easier than I expected. It took us about 15 minutes after I got the bleeder freed up. She was a great help, at that age, she's more than willing to just follow instructions. So we went for a test drive. Drove out to the local non-ethanol gas station and filled it up. Seems like the fuel gauge is fairly accurate. I put in 14+ gallons, the gauge was right on top of the red after dumping 5 gallons into a dry tank, starting and idling yesterday. Now it's reading just under full. And it's running like a top. However, I'm pretty sure the alternator isn't working. Oh well, it's what I expected. If I get all the worms gone by the end of summer, I'll be happy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
89 MJ Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 29 minutes ago, BeatCJ said: This morning I got my 8 year old granddaughter to help me bleed the clutch. It was a (Metric)ton easier than I expected. It took us about 15 minutes after I got the bleeder freed up. She was a great help, at that age, she's more than willing to just follow instructions. So we went for a test drive. Drove out to the local non-ethanol gas station and filled it up. Seems like the fuel gauge is fairly accurate. I put in 14+ gallons, the gauge was right on top of the red after dumping 5 gallons into a dry tank, starting and idling yesterday. Now it's reading just under full. And it's running like a top. However, I'm pretty sure the alternator isn't working. Oh well, it's what I expected. If I get all the worms gone by the end of summer, I'll be happy. Glad to hear that you are helping pass the hobby along. Also, nice metric ton joke! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescout526 Posted April 20, 2020 Share Posted April 20, 2020 Ah yes. My joke is catching on. Love it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted April 21, 2020 Author Share Posted April 21, 2020 Well, it's not charging, so replacing the alternator is next. I forgot to check continuity on the charging wire, so I'll meter that before I go buy one. I had intended to replace the wire, but I am still waiting on a fuse holder. Dang Amazon variable shipping. I may have to search some more, I don't even think it has shipped yet. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted May 25, 2020 Author Share Posted May 25, 2020 It's been more than a while since I updated. Replaced the alternator, used the 100 amp optional alternator, it fit just fine in the base 60 amp bracket. I also upgraded the charge wire, added a fuse in place of the fusible link. I have collected some parts for the eventual swap to 4 wheel drive, an NP 242 transfer case, a 4.10 Dana 30. Still looking for a rear axle and a transmission. For my plans, I think 4.10 gears will be perfect. I am willing to use either an 8.8 or an 8.25. We have both laying around with 3.55 gears, so I could get gears and bearings, and go that way, too. I have passed up 4wd BA10/5 and AX-5s, I don't see any reason to go there. Missed out on 2 AX-15s by being too slow. I hope to get this done by fall, so no particular hurry. I need to pull and replace the new fuel pump. U.S. Motorworks got back to me, it will be warrantied, but I have to go through Summit Racing. And so far, they haven't answered my emails. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted May 31, 2020 Author Share Posted May 31, 2020 Woot, one more piece of the puzzle collected. I just got back from picking up an AX-15 from a 1997 Cherokee. Kind of weird, but he had an internal slave bellhousing with it. He said it needed bearings in his CL ad. When I asked him why he thought that,he said it had started sliding out of 4th gear on deceleration. That means baulking rings ( the correct name for syncro rings) to me. But the input gear is a little wobbly too, so a complete kit it is. I've rebuilt a few toploaders, CJ T-177s and a Ford diesel T-19, a couple of Dana 300 transfer cases, after reading directions, this won't be too bad. Sounds like one weekend, and it should be in. Still need to get my rear axle sorted, first. I'll probably try to collect an external slave bell and clutch kit, too. Darnedest thing, I have the right clutct kit for internal, not sure if it's worth it to source th late bellhousing or not¿ And get a couple more steps done on the basement remodel... My before Fall goal is still reasonable... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted May 31, 2020 Share Posted May 31, 2020 I reused my '88 peugeot clutch with my '00 AX-15. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted June 1, 2020 Author Share Posted June 1, 2020 Thanks, good to know. I would suspect my 160,000 mile clutch is original. We will see if it can go back in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BeatCJ Posted July 7, 2020 Author Share Posted July 7, 2020 (edited) Well, thanks to @Pete M, I collected the last big piece I needed to swap to 4 wheel drive. I have collected a Dana 30 with 4.10 gears (needs bearings and seals), an NP 242 (that feels good, but will get bearings anyway), an AX-15 (that needs rebuilt), and finally, a 2003 Liberty 8.25 4.10 gears with disc brakes. I also purchased RE 4 1/2" lift coils. Probably the first step is getting the front axle gone through, and then I'll swap it and the rear axle in. While I do that, I'll put in adjustable lowers and an adjustable track bar, and upgrade the steering. Obviously, it will be a slow process, I tend to be really busy at work for the next three months, and my wife has some plans for when I can get away. If I get everything swapped by the end of September, I'll consider that good. Edited July 7, 2020 by BeatCJ Add photo Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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