Jump to content

2.5 renix no electric


Recommended Posts

  • Replies 103
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

disconnect the switch and the fuseable links, ohm from the red wire on the ignition switch to each fuse link separately, if you just ohm the pack it will show all of them, it should only ohm out to one green one. all others should not have a reading. you will have to do this with the battery disconnected. if none of them read, start tugging lightly at each fuse link, if one starts to give its bad, don't force it., once we've figured out that we can figure out why it blew

Link to comment
Share on other sites

13 hours ago, jdog said:

disconnect the switch and the fuseable links, ohm from the red wire on the ignition switch to each fuse link separately, if you just ohm the pack it will show all of them, it should only ohm out to one green one. all others should not have a reading. you will have to do this with the battery disconnected. if none of them read, start tugging lightly at each fuse link, if one starts to give its bad, don't force it., once we've figured out that we can figure out why it blew

 

This is what I'm working with. This is the only terminal that gives me a reading. So I'm assuming this is the culprit. I'm not good at electric diagnosing. 

0301201500a.jpg

0301201500_HDR.jpg

0301201500.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

does your black lead go back around the mirror, attached to another wire then back to the fuse link? also 45 ohms is a lot of resistance, ohm from the red wire to ground and then from the green wire to ground.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

we are on the correct wire then, if your reading for red to ground and green to ground is 0.0 ohms you've  got a short to ground, if it shows ol its good and just the wire is open between the green to red.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

7 minutes ago, jdog said:

we are on the correct wire then, if your reading for red to ground and green to ground is 0.0 ohms you've  got a short to ground, if it shows ol its good and just the wire is open between the green to red.

Where might I find this short to ground. I almost sold this thing yesterday because I'm so irritated with it 😆

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Where might I find this short to ground. I almost sold this thing yesterday because I'm so irritated with it
Unfortunately I can't tell you that, only run that wire for test purposes only there's a reason for the fuse link

Stock 1988 swb 4.0 ax15 np 231.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

17 minutes ago, jdog said:

Unfortunately I can't tell you that, only run that wire for test purposes only there's a reason for the fuse link

Stock 1988 swb 4.0 ax15 np 231.
 

Yea I know, I have an inline fuse 20a. but if I did have a solid 12v at the Red wire, and that was the only issue, it should start correct? 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

49 minutes ago, BoneheadJeeper said:

Yea I know, I have an inline fuse 20a. but if I did have a solid 12v at the Red wire, and that was the only issue, it should start correct? 

You can show 12v at the end of a wire which is not capable of carrying current. 

 

I suspect your fused links. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

10 minutes ago, Jeep Driver said:

You can show 12v at the end of a wire which is not capable of carrying current. 

 

I suspect your fused links. 

I cut the covers off the links. Took a pic for y'all to see. They all look good to me, granted idk what a good or bad fuse link looks like, but theres not any corrosion or anything loose or burnt..

0301201451.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The fuse link is the wires them selves, that's just the splice point, ohm each one from the eyelet to that splice point. Disconnect the wires from the starter relay first

 

Stock 1988 swb 4.0 ax15 np 231.

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

39 minutes ago, BoneheadJeeper said:

I cut the covers off the links. Took a pic for y'all to see. They all look good to me, granted idk what a good or bad fuse link looks like, but theres not any corrosion or anything loose or burnt..

0301201451.jpg

Unless the pic is deceiving me...........the one at your thumb is fried. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

After removing my washer fluid jug, I moved this mess down here, with key on, and the fuel pump fires up and dash lights come on, but no power to starter. I cut and tied together the fuse link that was thought to be burt before hand and no change. But i do plan on fixing it the right way with your alls help. 

 

With the key on, i can grab this harness and wiggle it around and the fuel pump will come on and shut off depending on the way I move it around. So I'm guessing my problem has been here all along. Can someone tell me how to take it apart and what to check? I tried to remove the clip but i feel like I'll break it if I keep pulling at it. 

 

 *Ive also re connected the original wire that i cut when i jumped to 12v*

0303201710.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share


×
×
  • Create New...