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The Gray Ghost


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  • 3 weeks later...
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  • 1 month later...

Hint: If I were to do it over, I'd done a little more prep on them. Although they sand blasted them, it didn't take out any of the curb rash, and the coating isn't thick enough to cover it all. Some of it I feel I could have smoothed out a little better. Overall I'm very pleased. Hopefully the tire place won't mess them up. LOL. I chose a flat black. The coater said it should be pretty durable. 

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

So the journey continues. I ended up buying a 3D printer since I noticed that most of the vendors are selling 3D printed parts. Plus I wanted to be a little creative with this truck. I created a new hub with the jeep logo to fit inside the wheels. ( I hit them with a filling black primer to get rid of the lines and take the shine away.

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Then bought spacers that had larger centers here.

https://smile.amazon.com/dp/B01MRVH2NR?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

Designed and printed a cavity to go inside and hold the outside piece in place.

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The end result should be something like this.

 

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Here is the whole shooting match on the truck. 

32x11.5R15's on a 4.5" lift. <- Rubs a little when turning VERY sharp. may invest in 1" spacers up front or adjust the stops.

 

 

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FYI - For those with 3D printers I used PLA and not ABS plastic so not sure how long they are going to last, but I can always reprint them. I included the STL files in this post in case someone wants to play. BTW I'm not a draftsman so you'll have to fix the model normals in the STL file. :)

HubSpacer.stl JeepHub3.stl

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  • 5 months later...

I'm guessing I don't have access to your google account?  I do see the images in that last post. :L: 

 

most people have no idea what an MJ is, and those that do, probably haven't seen one with an engine swap. :D  MJs are a curiosity for sure. 

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17 minutes ago, Pete M said:

I'm guessing I don't have access to your google account?  I do see the images in that last post. :L: 

 

most people have no idea what an MJ is, and those that do, probably haven't seen one with an engine swap. :D  MJs are a curiosity for sure. 

How about now?

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The adventure continues. I was told that if I ordered a 91/92 fuel assembly it would interface with my gauges and be the correct length. However they stopped making them years ago. I found a place that claimed it was for a 91 MJ. When it arrived it was for a XJ. SIGH. Instead of sending it back I decided to try and make it work, since it did make my gauge work in the correct direction.

You can see how much longer the old assembly is in this photo, and of course everything is backwards.
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I figured I could use the old pump assembly and modify it.
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However I needed this bracket.
I told my wife I've been watching too many Fab Rats videos. Cause out of frustration out came the cutting wheel.
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I figured with my luck, welding would blow a hole into the already hard to find fuel assembly. So I wasn't going to risk it.
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Time for good old fashion hose clamp method. LOL I was shocked how tight it all became.
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A little soldering of the new to the old.
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Bingo finished product. Some notes here. The old float was on the opposite side of the rheostat, compared to the new one. I tried to bend the old one up(As seen in the photo) hoping that would fly. It did not. I went back with the float the came with the new assembly. Which works better, but because it's not as long, takes longer to come off of full and shows empty long before it really is. I was in a hurry, and this was good enough for now. I'm going to try and heat/bend the old float so that it will work at a later date.
20220923_171845.jpg.57b8be19bde76ab0e542e57404b2e483.jpg 

 

Thanks for following this very SLOW build. :)

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  • 3 weeks later...

Ok so I've been having way too much fun with this 3D printer, and have gotten MUCH better at using FreeCAD. Decided to go crazy with the Designing parts. 

First goal fix broken Console. Printed a tab and then friction weld it in place.
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Of course I needed a light holder for the newly installed 4X4 indicator plate. I was thinking it would be easier and faster to design my own which I'll put in a separate post.

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I decided to make a spare and document how the LED replacement was made.

First the design in FreeCAD
image.jpeg.e9644a5076f524c2a28ef7f1acd72912.jpeg

Some simple circuits. 
image.png.55ac2d382c4128b62b8176093ace08bc.png

 


Print it out. :)

image.jpeg.a00a4b1a4c4fad6c8fff71441d40553d.jpeg


Now the assembly. Note two things here. I used two resistors in the black one cause I didn't have a 560 ohm. I have a electrical engineering degree, so matching what I needed was child's play for me. :) I also created a second one with a lower resistance(grey) for brighter LED, but it will most likely burn out quickly. 

image.jpeg.395a985c1c16f3ade6c00f668595092c.jpegimage.jpeg.1e70ce53167866e2d807e836a277715b.jpegimage.jpeg.ecad54717d66862cfa6bb11aae65f7ce.jpegimage.jpeg.62d524936ce3904c4b9a0c5c33693999.jpeg


Insert the assembly and fill with hot glue.
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Install into the console.

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STL files for those with 3D printers.
4x4 shiftPanel LED holder-Body.stl
4x4 shiftPanel LED holder-M12-Nut.stl

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So the boot for the shifter is functional. But since I'm playing already, I thought what the heck. I'll post additional pictures and how too, when it's working in the truck.


20221007_092834.jpg.d826d0df0335cc42d90a37db1d929c06.jpg20221007_092902.jpg.39a3190a147efb842e75681f1a57193f.jpg20221006_145249.jpg.6658870c85bebc1f9e442018cb688b2f.jpg20221007_080755.jpg.8c6eacce132f0515ddc9b3273a59ba34.jpg20221007_081410.jpg.d53e26dd936dab1c105107403dbbfcbf.jpg20221007_092356.jpg.3bd46375379d590d773adc9e70da9d6c.jpg20221007_092413.jpg.9db95d7804afe61c78e5632734aa46b6.jpg

So I printed this with a thin layer so you don't see the indicator when the truck isn't running. Used temporary power to see how it looked.
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