JustEmptyEveryPocket Posted March 21, 2019 Posted March 21, 2019 My brakes have gotten bad (step on the pedal and it goes halfway to the floor and makes a terrible hissing sound). Anyways, I have an 01 WJ booster and master to install. As part of this I want to delete my Rear Height Sensor (its being tied up with string right now). Since I would be doing all this I want to re-run the brake lines themselves as they are starting to look kinda crusty. To simplify life I was thinking about getting THIS and removing the distribution block as well, and starting from fresh. Does anyone see a problem with doing this? Has anyone used this product before?
Jeep Driver Posted March 22, 2019 Posted March 22, 2019 I have the WJ booster with spacer and I extended the rod. Deleted the height sensor. Kept the dist block, no adjustable prop valve. Rear discs. Bias perfect.
Eagle Posted March 22, 2019 Posted March 22, 2019 If you remove the distribution block, you eliminate the brake system failure warning light. You can argue that you don't need it, and I wouldn't disagree -- but technically your vehicle isn't legal to operate on the highway without it. Why not use the distribution block from the WJ -- or an XJ or ZJ distribution block? [Edit] Correction -- I see that Wilwood unit has a warning light connection. The ones I'm familiar with don't.
JustEmptyEveryPocket Posted March 22, 2019 Author Posted March 22, 2019 Jeep Driver: How did you extend the rod? With your spacer, were you able to leave the lip of the firewall unmutilated? Eagle: The warning light was a nice bonus. I am not above running without it, but if I can have it all the better.
Jeep Driver Posted March 22, 2019 Posted March 22, 2019 I cut the end off the MJ booster rod........cut end of the WJ rod, welded the MJ end to the WJ rod. Yes, spacer = not having to beat the crap out of your firewall.
SatiricalHen Posted March 22, 2019 Posted March 22, 2019 So to get the pedals back at the correct height you can either use a spacer and extend the rod or you can install without a spacer and cut the seam? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Jeep Driver Posted March 22, 2019 Posted March 22, 2019 35 minutes ago, SatiricalHen said: So to get the pedals back at the correct height you can either use a spacer and extend the rod or you can install without a spacer and cut the seam? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Correct.
JustEmptyEveryPocket Posted March 23, 2019 Author Posted March 23, 2019 The only reason I haven't jumped in and done this already is because of that firewall molestation. Well that and I am lazy. *joking* Cruiser54, a lot or a little it is still truck molestation, just ask the catholic priests. Thanks for the idea Jeep Driver. Did you buttweld the two pieces of booster rod? Or sleeve them? And any chance you remember the thickness of your spacer?
Jeep Driver Posted March 23, 2019 Posted March 23, 2019 37 minutes ago, JustEmptyEveryPocket said: The only reason I haven't jumped in and done this already is because of that firewall molestation. Well that and I am lazy. *joking* Cruiser54, a lot or a little it is still truck molestation, just ask the catholic priests. Thanks for the idea Jeep Driver. Did you buttweld the two pieces of booster rod? Or sleeve them? And any chance you remember the thickness of your spacer? Yes I butt welded, had I to do it again I would thread the rod and use an adjustable end, those are available. The spacer comes with the WJ booster.......about 1/4" thick or there about.
cruiser54 Posted March 23, 2019 Posted March 23, 2019 I trust my cutting more than I trust my welding!!!!!
kansashogan Posted March 23, 2019 Posted March 23, 2019 It seems to me when I did mine the rod was adjustable already. I bought all of my stuff from Rock Auto.
Jeep Driver Posted March 23, 2019 Posted March 23, 2019 This isn't going anywhere, hasn't gone anywhere in 5 years.
Jeep Driver Posted March 23, 2019 Posted March 23, 2019 Thinking back on this- I think I did this more to accommodate the brake switch than anything. You might want to check length yourself. At the time I had gone through several switches, OEM switch design is horrible. I have an E-brake controller relying on the switch, the switch became more important than just lights. Going to the Ford or later model switch became a no-brainer. This makes the style of rod end irrelevant, no modifications necessary and bracket is a bolt-on affair.......from later XJ.
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