1991.pioneer.explorer Posted January 8, 2019 Author Posted January 8, 2019 44 minutes ago, Pete M said: I can't see your video 20190107_175118(1).mp4
1991.pioneer.explorer Posted January 8, 2019 Author Posted January 8, 2019 47 minutes ago, Pete M said: I can't see your video How about now? I posted again.
1991.pioneer.explorer Posted January 8, 2019 Author Posted January 8, 2019 Here's my problem.. I did a motor swap myself, and I got everything in and hooked up, when I connected the negative terminal to the battery post, fuel immediately started getting pumped to the injectors. Mind you the keys aren't even in the ignition nor is the switch in the on position by chance. I even took the relay out of the fuse box and it still ran. And if its a short, we all know how much of a pain in the @$$ following the fuel wiring is because it runs into the cab through a grommet under the driver seat. I'm not sure what to do, by no means am I a mechanic I just love my jeep and want to know how it works but I think It beat me this time.. I might let a real mechanic give it a look.
Pete M Posted January 8, 2019 Posted January 8, 2019 there's a thread about how to chase down a short in the link in my sig.
1991.pioneer.explorer Posted January 8, 2019 Author Posted January 8, 2019 3 minutes ago, Pete M said: there's a thread about how to chase down a short in the link in my sig. I'll check it out, thank you.
Pete M Posted January 8, 2019 Posted January 8, 2019 it might help if you included the year of the truck and which drivetrain you have. you can put that info in your sig.
gogmorgo Posted January 8, 2019 Posted January 8, 2019 Does anything else have ghost power, or just the fuel pump? Looks like you're running an HO setup. What year truck is it in and what fuel pump, etc, are you using? Any chance you smashed the main wiring harness between the firewall and head when you put the new motor in? Or anywhere else? The other guess I have is the wires directly under the relay box.
Eagle Posted January 8, 2019 Posted January 8, 2019 9 hours ago, Pete M said: it might help if you included the year of the truck and which drivetrain you have. you can put that info in your sig. In this case, we need to know the year and model of the truck, plus the year and model of the donor swap, plus exactly what came from the original vehicle and what was swapped in with the donor motor. As you pulled the old motor, did you carefully mark each wire and connector to be sure everything went back together the same way it came apart?
Ωhm Posted January 8, 2019 Posted January 8, 2019 When you set the condition for pump running, try removing each fuse to determine if pump shut off. This may give a clue to where short to voltage is.
1991.pioneer.explorer Posted January 8, 2019 Author Posted January 8, 2019 1 hour ago, Eagle said: In this case, we need to know the year and model of the truck, plus the year and model of the donor swap, plus exactly what came from the original vehicle and what was swapped in with the donor motor. As you pulled the old motor, did you carefully mark each wire and connector to be sure everything went back together the same way it came apart? I have a 91 mj 4.0 high output, I believe the donor came from a 92 cherokee, same motor. It was just the block that was swapped. All the parts and brackets were taken off of the original and put onto donor.
carnuck Posted January 14, 2019 Posted January 14, 2019 Try unplugging the ignition switch on the column. That Bypasses a possible coincidental slider switch breaking. Is there aftermarket Radio or accessory wiring direct to battery? If it was an XJ, I’d wonder about the passive alarm system with a “chip” that came out for a few years. Alternator shorting internally? Wires pinched between bell housing and motor or melted on driver’s side?
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