Aftermarket (OE replacement) gas tanks

[DirtyComanche]

So, who has one, and what did you think of it?

 

I bought the Spectra Premium one for my last truck.  The metal is thin.  It's lead-tin coated (terne) according to them, but I"m guessing it's zinc-tin because you can't just go slopping lead around anymore.  Otherwise I think it's exactly the same as an OEM tank, but I can't specifically recall if it had exactly the same sump tray setup in it or not.  One way or another it works fine, it just bothers me that the metal is that thin.

 

I'd highly suspect every aftermarket tank is actually stamped by Spectra, as I doubt the market for MJ tanks is large enough for anyone else to have made dies.  But I'm not sure.

 

Anyone else that bought an aftermarket tank, did it seem thin?

 

Other option is to put the Dakota tank in...  And bodge the sending unit completely.  I'm thinking about it.

[DirtyComanche]

For only 50 loonies I can bodge the Dodge tank.

 

https://www.summitracing.com/int/parts/tnk-tan-gml/overview/

 

Hmm.  Seems almost like a no-brainer...  It's $200 by the time I get a replacement steel tank to my door, and I'd still need to paint it.

[Dzimm]

In case it will affect you decision, the Dakota tank does hang just below the frame rail.   Fine for a mostly street truck but could become a problem for a heavy offroader if not protected. 

[DirtyComanche]

5 minutes ago, Dzimm said:

In case it will affect you decision, the Dakota tank does hang just below the frame rail.   Fine for a mostly street truck but could become a problem for a heavy offroader if not protected. 

 

Unfortunately I think I need to try it to know how bad it is.  I know it's close to the driveshaft too, even when you squish it over as far as you can and reshape the tank a bit.  Although, the factory tank is close to the shaft too.  How far below the frame rail is 'just below'?

 

It won't be heavily offroaded, and I'd probably build a skid either way...  But I don't want an anchor.

 

 

Edit, I'm building a driver to keep forever, that doesn't have rust holes through the bed and bondo falling out all over the place...  So Eagle can be sorta happy about that.  Sorta.

[Eagle]

I put an aftermarket tank in my '87 several years ago. Unfortunately, it was long enough back that I don't remember whether or not it had the sump baffle. I think it did. I didn't notice any sense that it was significantly thinner than the original tank.

 

Edit, I'm building a driver to keep forever, that doesn't have rust holes through the bed and bondo falling out all over the place...  So Eagle can be sorta happy ab

out that.

 

Eagle approves. "keep forever" =/= "scrap heap." Those words are music to my ears.

[Dzimm]

3 minutes ago, DirtyComanche said:

 

Unfortunately I think I need to try it to know how bad it is.  I know it's close to the driveshaft too, even when you squish it over as far as you can and reshape the tank a bit.  Although, the factory tank is close to the shaft too.  How far below the frame rail is 'just below'?

 

It won't be heavily offroaded, and I'd probably build a skid either way...  But I don't want an anchor.

 

 

Edit, I'm building a driver to keep forever, that doesn't have rust holes through the bed and bondo falling out all over the place...  So Eagle can be sorta happy about that.  Sorta.

Just below is about an inch.  That's also if you use the top mounted fuel pump because the tank has to be spaced from the bed to clear the top of the pump.  The driveshaft issue is solved by heating and bending the tank to clear the angled frame brace at the back of the cab.  I was able to get about 1.5" of clearance between the shaft and the front of the tank.   It's also far enough forward on the shaft that being flexed out it should still clear.  

 

The other issue with it is the rear axle with the 22.5 gallon tank.  The early 90s tank have an angled corner to clear it but the later 90s tanks can be close on a swb truck. 

[DirtyComanche]

52 minutes ago, Eagle said:

I put an aftermarket tank in my '87 several years ago. Unfortunately, it was long enough back that I don't remember whether or not it had the sump baffle. I think it did. I didn't notice any sense that it was significantly thinner than the original tank.

 

Any idea what brand it was?

 

The Spectra one definitely was thin, but I spend a lot of time handling metal so it may not be as obvious to some people.  The debate is also if I should just wire wheel/glass blast my current tank and paint it, or buy a new one.  The current tank is actually not that bad, maybe, it's just really hard to say as once you have any flaking rust you know you have significant pitting.  But as to if there's too much or not is really hard to judge.  I'd also be upset if it wound up like my last OEM tank that didn't leak until I filled it, and then it leaked from the seam.   I've debated trying to rig up a bojang pressure tester to it before I do anything else, just tape outlets with duct tape and hit it with a pound or two of air, soap it for leaks.  It might be worth it, or I'll waste a couple hours screwing around.

[DirtyComanche]

1 minute ago, Dzimm said:

Just below is about an inch.  That's also if you use the top mounted fuel pump because the tank has to be spaced from the bed to clear the top of the pump.  The driveshaft issue is solved by heating and bending the tank to clear the angled frame brace at the back of the cab.  I was able to get about 1.5" of clearance between the shaft and the front of the tank.   It's also far enough forward on the shaft that being flexed out it should still clear.  

 

The other issue with it is the rear axle with the 22.5 gallon tank.  The early 90s tank have an angled corner to clear it but the later 90s tanks can be close on a swb truck. 

 

Hmm.  I think I could live with an inch.  But...  I might be able to make it up a bit anyways as I can ditch the fuel pressure regulator and just put a 90* bulkhead/barb fitting or something in it for the pressure side.  Looking at the sending units/pump baskets for the earlier tanks they don't have a FPR anyways, but it has a weird collection of bosses on the top for what?  EVAP probably?  And something else?  Hmm.

[Dzimm]

6 minutes ago, DirtyComanche said:

 

Hmm.  I think I could live with an inch.  But...  I might be able to make it up a bit anyways as I can ditch the fuel pressure regulator and just put a 90* bulkhead/barb fitting or something in it for the pressure side.  Looking at the sending units/pump baskets for the earlier tanks they don't have a FPR anyways, but it has a weird collection of bosses on the top for what?  EVAP probably?  And something else?  Hmm.

All the fittings on the top of the Dakota tank go to the EVAP system.  If you are going to modify a top-mounted pump assembly I would get the Dakota one because it's the correct height for the tank, XJ ones are too short and won't allow you to use the entire tank. 

 

I have seen people use a Dakota tank but seal the top of the tank cut a hole in the side of it and use an old XJ fuel pump assembly.  I'm pretty sure you can buy the old twist style pump flange for the tank side.  You could probably cut the flange off your old tank if it's salvageable and use that if you went this route. 

[DirtyComanche]

5 minutes ago, Dzimm said:

All the fittings on the top of the Dakota tank go to the EVAP system.  If you are going to modify a top-mounted pump assembly I would get the Dakota one because it's the correct height for the tank, XJ ones are too short and won't allow you to use the entire tank. 

 

I have seen people use a Dakota tank but seal the top of the tank cut a hole in the side of it and use an old XJ fuel pump assembly.  I'm pretty sure you can buy the old twist style pump flange for the tank side.  You could probably cut the flange off your old tank if it's salvageable and use that if you went this route. 

 

I guess the backstory would help, but I'm not going to write a novel.  I need this to work with a Renix gauge (hence the bodge sending unit I linked being 0-90ohms).  I'd use the Dakota pump basket/sender assembly, but throw the bodge sender in elsewhere or gut the Dakota unit and put it there.  I'd buy a whole tank with basket from the junkyard or somebody doing a part out.  IMHO hacking an XJ or MJ pump into the side of the Dakota tank would be largely defeating the purpose of using one, but that's from the standpoint that I'm not doing a 97+ conversion, I just want a reliable fuel tank and I don't want to pay a lot for it (and then still have to paint it).

 

Good to know I want an earlier tank for axle clearance though...  There's a couple 01s and a 99 listed on the local buy and sell for part outs right now.

[Dzimm]

11 minutes ago, DirtyComanche said:

IMHO hacking an XJ or MJ pump into the side of the Dakota tank would be largely defeating the purpose of using one, but that's from the standpoint that I'm not doing a 97+ conversion, I just want a reliable fuel tank and I don't want to pay a lot for it (and then still have to paint it).

 

Good to know I want an earlier tank for axle clearance though...  There's a couple 01s and a 99 listed on the local buy and sell for part outs right now.

I've never really understood mounting something in the side either as it would be a rediculous amount of work and create a huge potential for a leak but people made it work.  

 

The axle clearance isn't a huge factor if the truck is lifted but would be a huge problem for a stock height truck.  I can't remember the exact years but I believe it was like 94 and older were the angled tanks. Below is an image of the difference. 

 

Here is a link to a thread on the Dakota tanks I referenced when doing mine, may have some good info for you.  

https://comancheclub.com/topic/30755-dakota-22-gallon-tank-and-fuel-pump/?page=2

[Eagle]

1 hour ago, DirtyComanche said:

 

Any idea what brand it was?

 

 

Sorry, at this point I have no idea. I don't even remember where I bought it, and I can't find the receipt.

[DirtyComanche]

Just now, Eagle said:

 

Sorry, at this point I have no idea. I don't even remember where I bought it, and I can't find the receipt.

 

No worries.  It's really only the Spectra one I can buy anyways, based on the searching I've done since I started the thread.  Maybe the Liland Global one, but it shows out of stock with no ETA.  All the other ones are over $200 in shipping (yes, just for the shipping.  Seriously. )  If I knew the Liland one was better than the Spectra I would order it and see what they come up with for an ETA.

[DirtyComanche]

25 minutes ago, Dzimm said:

I've never really understood mounting something in the side either as it would be a rediculous amount of work and create a huge potential for a leak but people made it work.  

 

The axle clearance isn't a huge factor if the truck is lifted but would be a huge problem for a stock height truck.  I can't remember the exact years but I believe it was like 94 and older were the angled tanks. Below is an image of the difference. 

 

Here is a link to a thread on the Dakota tanks I referenced when doing mine, may have some good info for you.  

https://comancheclub.com/topic/30755-dakota-22-gallon-tank-and-fuel-pump/?page=2

 

Yeah, I'd read that thread before, I just forgot some of the details.  I'll have to think on it.  Luckily there's no rush because I have a long list of projects to get done before I worry about this anyways.

[AZJeff]

OP-- I cannot comment on how to adapt the old style guage sender to a Dakota tank, but if you decide to do the Dakota tank installation, I can offer some suggestions on how to mount the tank so as to minimize the chance of getting near the driveshaft or the rear axle housing.   Just amend this thread if you do go the Dakota route.

[DirtyComanche]

2 hours ago, AZJeff said:

OP-- I cannot comment on how to adapt the old style guage sender to a Dakota tank, but if you decide to do the Dakota tank installation, I can offer some suggestions on how to mount the tank so as to minimize the chance of getting near the driveshaft or the rear axle housing.   Just amend this thread if you do go the Dakota route.

 

I'll probably start a new thread on it if that happens...  I managed to complete derail my own thread already.

[SuperSwede]

That spectra premium tank without any other items should cost me the amount of 602  US dollar in a Swedish store and there is no other alternative to find,,,
Bought it from your side of the sea instead, including tank, gas pump, filter 156 US dollar plus shipping and custom charges 84 US dollar.
 Was it thinner than the original, not really,,,

But the sump baffle and fastening for the pump was different from the original.

[Minuit]

I have what I'm pretty sure is a Spectra tank. It definitely has a sump on the bottom, but I couldn't tell you if it was different from the old tank. The metal seems fine to me. It may be thinner than an OEM tank but not enough for me to make note of it. The metal on the Spectra tank is definitely thicker than the old tank was on the bottom... but any metal at all is thicker than that 

 

My '89 has the original tank in it still. If it means that much to ya I can go measure the thicknesses at the seams tomorrow.

[DirtyComanche]

1 hour ago, Minuit said:

I have what I'm pretty sure is a Spectra tank. It definitely has a sump on the bottom, but I couldn't tell you if it was different from the old tank. The metal seems fine to me. It may be thinner than an OEM tank but not enough for me to make note of it. The metal on the Spectra tank is definitely thicker than the old tank was on the bottom... but any metal at all is thicker than that 

 

My '89 has the original tank in it still. If it means that much to ya I can go measure the thicknesses at the seams tomorrow.

 

I've got my original 89 tank sitting in the shed right now.  I could measure it and the Spectra that's in my DD if I really cared to know for sure...  Which I guess means maybe I should.

 

Personally I really like plastic tanks though.  They were one of the better things to happen to automobiles in the last 25 years.