Manche757 Posted November 14, 2018 Share Posted November 14, 2018 I have not seen a thread but sure one must be out there on replacing the felt lined door window glass guides. Can someone who has done this recently, recommend a supply source for good quality? I have an 87 MJ, AMC built, with towing mirrors and understand there is extra plate inside the doors to support the mirrors. I do not know if that has any bearing on the glass guides at all. I also have an 89 MJ with standard mirrors. Both are 4.0s an both very much need new guides. Newer car door often have a clear plastic vapor barrier under the door panels. Is anyone bothering to put those in? A different issue: The chrome on the outside of doors around the windows is covered with vinyl or something that is peeling off. Is the best and only solution to just peel it all off? And another: Has anyone replaced stationary vent and manual window with one piece manual windows and gotten good results? I don't really mind the stationary vent windows but air and water leaks would be nice to limit. I prefer to keep the original doors Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted November 14, 2018 Share Posted November 14, 2018 23 minutes ago, Manche757 said: I have not seen a thread but sure one must be out there on replacing the felt lined door window glass guides. The procedure is simple. Roll down window all the way. Remove armrest, door trim, and window crank if manual windows. Remove 10mm bolt extending down from the front glass guide and two #2 Pozidriv screws along front slope of door frame. Remove vent window assembly by tilting back and pulling up out of door frame - main window will now have free movement. Pull old felt from door frame and vent window assembly. Can someone who has done this recently, recommend a supply source for good quality? Mopar. I had some aftermarket ones and they were roughly 3/4" too short at the top corner. End result - wind whistle. Unacceptable. Some people get lucky with aftermarket parts. I don't. Maybe you will? Part numbers: 55002337 - front of glass, attaches to vent window assy, you'll need two 55235703 or 55005315 or 55235173 - rear half, attaches to door frame, driver side 55235702 or 55005314 or 55235172 - rear half, ditto, passenger side I have an 87 MJ, AMC built, with towing mirrors and understand there is extra plate inside the doors to support the mirrors. I do not know if that has any bearing on the glass guides at all. It doesn't. Newer car door often have a clear plastic vapor barrier under the door panels. Is anyone bothering to put those in? Your truck had them from new and you should make sure they are there. The clear plastic OEM vapor barriers won't come out in one piece. 95-96 XJs have ones made of more substantial material, but if you want to be one of the cool kids, get some mass loaded vinyl and cut some vapor barriers out of that. Use velcro to make them removable, or use butyl adhesive if you want to be OEM. And another: Has anyone replaced stationary vent and manual window with one piece manual windows and gotten good results? I've heard of a small number of people doing this. Not done it myself but I think there's more to it than just a simple drop-in. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manche757 Posted November 14, 2018 Author Share Posted November 14, 2018 Minuit, you should win some damn prize for the speed, organization and exactness of your answers. Thanks. 14 minutes ago, Minuit said: Newer car door often have a clear plastic vapor barrier under the door panels. Is anyone bothering to put those in? Your truck had them from new and you should make sure they are there. The clear plastic OEM vapor barriers won't come out in one piece. 95-96 XJs have ones made of more substantial material, but if you want to be one of the cool kids, get some mass loaded vinyl and cut some vapor barriers out of that. Use velcro to make them removable, or use butyl adhesive if you want to be OEM. I am too old to be a cool kid. Got a Mopar number for those? Hopefully they are available new also Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted November 14, 2018 Share Posted November 14, 2018 12 minutes ago, Manche757 said: Minuit, you should win some damn prize for the speed, organization and exactness of your answers. Thanks. I do try. I am too old to be a cool kid. Got a Mopar number for those? Hopefully they are available new also You would want the 1996 or After 12-21-94 numbers, I think. I don't think any of them are available anymore. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete M Posted November 14, 2018 Share Posted November 14, 2018 is all this info in a DIY thread yet? if not, it should be. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manche757 Posted November 14, 2018 Author Share Posted November 14, 2018 47 minutes ago, Pete M said: is all this info in a DIY thread yet? if not, it should be. Pete, is that something you can do for us with that blue tooth dongle of yours? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manche757 Posted November 14, 2018 Author Share Posted November 14, 2018 In the middle issue in my post, I asked about something peeling off of the chrome around the outside of the glass. Is it likely that chrome trim would have been painted black originally? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mjeff87 Posted November 14, 2018 Share Posted November 14, 2018 ^^^mine did that too. I scraped off what I could, very carefully masked off everything around them, and spray painted them with some gloss black. I also had chrome window vent visors....I sprayed the same black to the insides of them so they didn't glare so much in the sunlight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SVPete Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 (edited) On 11/14/2018 at 11:44 AM, Manche757 said: In the middle issue in my post, I asked about something peeling off of the chrome around the outside of the glass. Is it likely that chrome trim would have been painted black originally? If you are referring the the silver trim around the window below....The trim originally had a black coating which was almost like a decal of some type. I cleaned mine with a heat gun and then sanded it with a 240 grit emery cloth (to finish removing the adhesive). I appears to be aluminum, so I left it stripped. I do intend to remove it and paint it black one day when I replace the door locks. To remove the trim from the door, you have to take all the glass out (having done it a few times, it's not that daunting), remove the inside and outside scraper seals (easy), and the window channel (easy). The trim is just wedged on around the door frame (like a pinch seal) and comes off with some gentle prying from the inside edge. Remove the lower trim first. It's kind of one of those things to do when you have another reason to be gutting the door. Edited November 21, 2018 by SVPete Wrong information on trim removal. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 On 11/14/2018 at 10:23 AM, Manche757 said: Minuit, you should win some damn prize for the speed, organization and exactness of your answers. Thanks. I am too old to be a cool kid. Got a Mopar number for those? Hopefully they are available new also Unless you are actually attempting to restore your MJ to OEM status, I would not bother trying to get OEM watershields, which you referred to as "vapor barriers". (I sort of wonder if they even are available as a replacement part any longer). I have found that some thick polyethelyne sheeting ("Visqueen") of at least 4 mils or more makes a very acceptable substitute water shield. You can cut it with scissors or a utility knife to meet the shape you need. The exact shape is not super critical, as long as you cover all the large openings and attach it with an appropriate adhesive. I like using the OEM butyl strip stuff to attach the water shield, and that can be had on Amazon. If kept clean, it's reusable indefinitely. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manche757 Posted November 19, 2018 Author Share Posted November 19, 2018 10 hours ago, SVPete said: If you are referring the the silver trim around the window below....The trim originally had a black coating which was almost like a decal of some type. I cleaned mine with a heat gun and then sanded it with a 240 grit emery cloth (to finish removing the adhesive). I appears to be aluminum, so I left it stripped. SVPete, yes that is the trim I alluded to. I wondered what that material is because it is definitely thicker than paint. I thought it was chrome showing through because it looks too shiny to be 30 year old aluminum. After seeing yours, I am going to peel off the covering material and leave metal showing. I think it looks more consistent with the truck than the original black coating. Won't WD40 get the gum off without abrading the surface? You did a good job of cleaning yours and not mucking up the metal. The look gets my vote. 10 hours ago, SVPete said: To remove the trim from the door, you have to take all the glass out (having done it a few times, it's not that daunting), remove the inside and outside scraper seals (easy), and the window channel (easy). The trim is just wedged on around the door frame (like a pinch seal) and comes off with some gentle prying from the inside edge. Remove the upper trim first. Is it necessary to remove the trim? I would not be a happy camper if I end up crimping the trim. Have a pic of what you mean? 10 hours ago, SVPete said: I do intend to remove it and paint it black Hey, you have projects you haven't gotten around to also? l hope your list isn't as long as mine. Thanks for the input. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manche757 Posted November 19, 2018 Author Share Posted November 19, 2018 9 hours ago, AZJeff said: Unless you are actually attempting to restore your MJ to OEM status, I would not bother trying to get OEM watershields, which you referred to as "vapor barriers". (I sort of wonder if they even are available as a replacement part any longer). AZJeff, thanks for educating a dumbass like me. It is a hidden area, so whatever is most protective is what I have in mind. 9 hours ago, AZJeff said: I have found that some thick polyethelyne sheeting ("Visqueen") of at least 4 mils or more makes a very acceptable substitute water shield. You can cut it with scissors or a utility knife to meet the shape you need. The exact shape is not super critical, as long as you cover all the large openings and attach it with an appropriate adhesive. I like using the OEM butyl strip stuff to attach the water shield, and that can be had on Amazon. If kept clean, it's reusable indefinitely. Is the "butyl strip stuff" better than good ole duct tape? "Reusable indefinitely" has a nice ring to it. Can it be used on an aging human body? Thanks for your post. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AZJeff Posted November 19, 2018 Share Posted November 19, 2018 1 hour ago, Manche757 said: AZJeff, thanks for educating a dumbass like me. It is a hidden area, so whatever is most protective is what I have in mind. Is the "butyl strip stuff" better than good ole duct tape? "Reusable indefinitely" has a nice ring to it. Can it be used on an aging human body? Thanks for your post. I have used duct tape in the past, and I find it tends to dry out, shrink, and even fall off the metal surfaces. (I live in AZ, and the heat probably is destroying the adhesive in the duct tape.) I tried using contact cement, but it was messy to apply. I finally broke down and bought the "real deal"" that the factory uses, and have been happy since on several vehicles. (I own several older vehicles that seem to need me to go inside the doors periodically.) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manche757 Posted November 19, 2018 Author Share Posted November 19, 2018 The winner is butyl !!! Used by Jeep. Recommended by Minuit and seconded by AZJeff. (It probably keeps the rattle snakes out of his truck too.) On 11/14/2018 at 12:07 PM, Minuit said: attaches to vent window assy, you'll need two What all are you doing in that truck of yours? I am not buying that bit about your hiding your cache of tail lights there again. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SVPete Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 On 11/19/2018 at 6:51 AM, Manche757 said: Is it necessary to remove the trim? I would not be a happy camper if I end up crimping the trim. Have a pic of what you mean? Yes - To clean it off well since the black coating wraps around the edges. Sorry - no photos. But if you can envision how the seals around the door frame are held in place, it is the same concept. When you get to the point of removing the trim, stop and look for a moment. Start trying to work it up off near the ends, but go easy and slow. I retract my earlier statement....the bottom trim has to be removed first. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Minuit Posted November 21, 2018 Share Posted November 21, 2018 On 11/19/2018 at 12:00 PM, Manche757 said: What all are you doing in that truck of yours? I am not buying that bit about your hiding your cache of tail lights there again. Oh, that part? That's where my collection of NOS AMC radios goes. It's gonna be my retirement fund, I guarantee it! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Manche757 Posted November 24, 2018 Author Share Posted November 24, 2018 On 11/21/2018 at 6:01 PM, Minuit said: Oh, that part? That's where my collection of NOS AMC radios goes. It's gonna be my retirement fund, I guarantee it! First the taillights, now radios. If 4.0s become scarce, look for a big disturbance in the magnetic field around Minuetville Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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